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Deckel mill sheet metal chip pan extension wanted.... would a new one from Singer

Milacron

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Joined
Dec 15, 2000
Location
SC, USA
cost a fortune to ship to the USA even though it wouldn't weigh much ? (due to physical dimensions and maybe the need of a full crate)

Ideally the type that fit the bottom for an FP2 or 3...but I would consider the type that mount to the X slde (like at link very bottom of this post) and even an FP1 bottom type version would work if used and cheap enough.

email me at [email protected] if you have one to sell.

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Ironically I have a sheet metal guy in town that can make one for amazingly low dollar, and did a great job on the one he did... but he has to have an already existing one to go by...which I had then, but not now... if only I had had the foresight to have him make two of them !

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ip-pan-duplication-233216/?highlight=chip+pan
 
Don,
Would an enclosure from a FP3NC work for you? I have a complete one.
No.... I despise those enclosures...just "too much" for a manual Deckel. I had an extra one of those as well and gave it away with the last FP2A/D11 I sold.
 
Just a note I bought an FP2/3 lower style (surrounds the top of the base) chip pan from a (USA) PM member who can reveal himself if he wishes to. Got it in Monday and it fits beautifully...he did a great job of packaging it for shipping also, going so far as to construct a special cardboard tube to support the flanges in case UPS were to crush the box....the box probably being special made to fit it as well.

I presumed I would be painting it dark hammertone gray to match the electrical cabinet and other 1980 vintage parts that color (currently it is the classic Deckel gray of the older machines) but it looks pretty nice as it is so may just leave it.
 
Original old style paint is likely more durable than most anything you could repaint it with save powder coating, and that is a plus on a chip pan
assuming it ever see any chips....:stirthepot:

cheers Ross
 
Looks like you could build the frame and make a cardboard or masonite pattern for the sheet metal guy to build from. If you have no welding gear that might be out of the question.
 
Original old style paint is likely more durable than most anything you could repaint it with save powder coating, and that is a plus on a chip pan
Well of course, but the theory was even if the darker hammertone were later scratched it would only reveal the medium gray below the surface such that the scratches would be barely noticeable.

Not to mention the fact that the hammertone, being a standard Rustoleum color, and the pan easily removable, would be easy enough to repaint at any time.
 
Just a note I bought an FP2/3 lower style (surrounds the top of the base) chip pan from a (USA) PM member who can reveal himself if he wishes to. Got it in Monday and it fits beautifully...he did a great job of packaging it for shipping also, going so far as to construct a special cardboard tube to support the flanges in case UPS were to crush the box....the box probably being special made to fit it as well.

I presumed I would be painting it dark hammertone gray to match the electrical cabinet and other 1980 vintage parts that color (currently it is the classic Deckel gray of the older machines) but it looks pretty nice as it is so may just leave it.

I'm glad it got to you in good shape.......I always take great care when packing things for shipping, never know what will happen!

I was lucky finding the box, I was waiting to ship it when one showed up at work that was perfect.:)

Kevin
 
I have a couple of chip pans (early FP1) but shipping always deterred me from offering them to someone. What would be a realistic way to ship one, anyone have any wisdom to offer on this topic?
Dan
 
I have a couple of chip pans (early FP1) but shipping always deterred me from offering them to someone. What would be a realistic way to ship one, anyone have any wisdom to offer on this topic?
Dan

If you can find a box big enough that makes things go a lot easier, you don't need a lot of packing material if it fits the box well.
Try and brace the box if you think there's a chance the pan could get tweaked from the package being thrown!

Shipping thru UPS was very reasonable, I was pleasantly surprised

Kevin
 
Do you actually make anything or do you just have lots of cool machines to sell once in a while.

If you are directing your question towards me.....yes, I make things everyday!
I work for German bearing manufacturer, I run the shop in our test lab.

At home I have been putting a shop together for a while, had some health issues and setbacks the last few years......finally getting back on my feet.

Kevin
 
I have a couple of chip pans (early FP1) but shipping always deterred me from offering them to someone. What would be a realistic way to ship one, anyone have any wisdom to offer on this topic?
Dan

Use artist's 'white rubber' cement (easily removed, no residue) to sticky a poster in the inside center of it.

Frame it into a wood & corrugated cardboard crate.

Ship it as a 'framed work of art'.

Probably correct even if the poster goes walkabout enroute.

Erotic poster might be appropriate.

A Deckel is too focused on detail work to have had much fun otherwise, but they can dream.
 
Do you actually make anything or do you just have lots of cool machines to sell once in a while.
Not making any machines at the moment, just replacement parts on occasion. Used to make the Omnijig (dovetail jig)..sold rights and patent to that to Porter Cable, after that a tool presetter that didn't do so well, then an articulating arm tapping machine, which did very well for a decade...even exported large numbers of them to Japan.

I sold that out to my main competitor at the worst possible time to be flush with cash..late 1999...got sucked into the stock market boom and lost half of the money ! So, had to get back to work...selling other folks machine tools this time....but along the way keeping what I perceive as the ultimate of this 'n that for the theoretical retirement when additive manufacturing equipment will make it all obsolete :fight:

Speaking of which, I have never cut a buttress thread in my life...is there anything to it besides the usual lathe procedures other than determining the exact "sawtooth" thread form that Deckel used on the 20mm x 2 shafts, and hand grinding a single point tool to that shape ? Not a critical application, just making a horizontal dust cap.

http://legacy.woodshopdemos.com/dts-omni-1.htm

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/squaretap2.jpg

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/muraki.jpg

squaretap1.jpg


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Kevin- I thought that box looked awfully professional ! Yes that was lucky...what a perfect fit !

Danny VV- Kevin's pan was in a nice box that had thick enough walls and fit so well there was no need for padding. Having said that the larger Deckel base mount chip pans are not very "tall" maybe 4 inches but the FP1 pans are sometimes much taller than that so finding appropriate box could be a problem.
 
Speaking of which, I have never cut a buttress thread in my life...is there anything to it besides the usual lathe procedures other than determining the exact "sawtooth" thread form that Deckel used on the 20mm x 2 shafts, and hand grinding a single point tool to that shape ? Not a critical application, just making a horizontal dust cap.

Tool clearance. Otherwise, if I could cut mating M & F Dardelets for a "don't EVER fail me again" improvement to a b****y rivet ('72 BMW driver's side window crank arm end tip).... to avoid spend of $52 for a new arm just as badly 'Engineered' as the one as had failed?

... and do so on a cannot-be-named 6"X18"... you should find a buttress just as straightforward as you described. Not mysterious. Just tedious. Measuring issue, internal threads, mostly.

And I wouldn't do it. Not if a snapover ring or internal spring fingers could do?

A less-complicated route yet, and arguably actually useful would be to fasten it to a cut-off taper-bore cleaner. Those have to be parked 'somewhere handy' anyway, and where cleaner than a close-off spindle bore?


Bill
 
Speaking of which, I have never cut a buttress thread in my life...is there anything to it besides the usual lathe procedures other than determining the exact "sawtooth" thread form that Deckel used on the 20mm x 2 shafts, and hand grinding a single point tool to that shape ? Not a critical application, just making a horizontal dust cap.

There are inserts available to cut buttress threads. I saw them at Ross' shop a few years ago, perhaps he can provide the details.

-Dave
 
Speaking of which, I have never cut a buttress thread in my life...is there anything to it besides the usual lathe procedures other than determining the exact "sawtooth" thread form that Deckel used on the 20mm x 2 shafts, and hand grinding a single point tool to that shape ? Not a critical application, just making a horizontal dust cap.

=================
Danny VV- Kevin's pan was in a nice box that had thick enough walls and fit so well there was no need for padding. Having said that the larger Deckel base mount chip pans are not very "tall" maybe 4 inches but the FP1 pans are sometimes much taller than that so finding appropriate box could be a problem.

I cut the 2mm pitch X 20mm buttress thread two different ways on a manual lathe, one with a form tool that I didn't like the results. The other was with an NC inserted tool with 35 degree diamond shaped insert, one side set 90 degrees from the work and fed in at a 45 degree angle. That seemed to cut a lot cleaner (nice chip flow and smooth finish) and put a lot less pressure on everything including me. I had no print with dimensions but a spare draw bar to test fit, didn't see a reason to get too critical with what the thread is intended for?

The box large enough for a chip pan would work I suppose but still seems like it would be expensive compared to the value involved.
I bought a custom grill for a truck I had, sent direct to me. It got broke in shipping and wound up having to get it replaced and they broke the second one too. The second one I was at the front door when the delivery boy threw it down on the porch, in the heat of the argument he said something to the effect that it was only some floor mats that couldn't get hurt no matter what. i wound up going to one of the shops here that deal with that type of thing and had them get one with their price markup, worth every penny in hind sight.
Dan
 
No, the question was for Milacron.
Did I present enough machining street cred, or do you want more ? There is the woodworking end of things as well......

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...perior-alternatives-gerstner-boxes-scan-6.jpg

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...94566-photos-shop-made-mallets-mirrorbox1.jpg

The end goal is to eventually combine the two somehow...

(as a possibly humorous or horrified aside, depending on your point of view.... eons ago I actually used that bandsaw just as you see it...and even larger (32") ones....no guards at all. The theory being "Well hell, if the guys could do it in 1890, so can I ! :dopeslap: )
 
For my money i give you a pass on making stuff.....You have enough cool and "pristine" gear that it sort negates your need to be
chipping out parts....Just having cool stuff and knowing about it is fine...I might also be tipped by your starting and maintaining this forum....
Cheers Ross
 








 
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