What's new
What's new

DRO for Lathe Questions

gr71

Plastic
Joined
Mar 30, 2015
I have a Jet 1340 lathe and I want to add a DRO

First: The problem with all the brands is that the cross slide scale covers the cross slide lock.

I can't put the scale on the spindle side if I wanted to.

Do most people just go without the lock or do they make a new one somewhere else? I don't use it often but I do use it.

If you move it, where to? I've thought about drilling and tapping the top of the cross slide and placing a set screw that comes down on the top of the dove tail. The non-slidy part.

Second: Optical or Magnetic?

Third: What is the best brand for the money.

Acu-rite seems nice but pricey. DRO Pros?

Let me know what you think.
 

rklopp

Diamond
Joined
Feb 27, 2001
Location
Redwood City, CA USA
I volunteer in the local high school's robotics program and put a DRO Pros glass scale DRO on their Jet 1340. It's been fine for about 3 years now, with student use and abuse. My only complaint about the DRO Pros unit is that it shows diameter (X) to the 1/2-tenth, i.e., 0.00005, which is useless and mostly just flickers. I have not found a setting short of masking tape to make the last digit disappear. Even the lathe is surviving reasonably well. For sure it's no Monarch 10EE or even Colchester, but it does decent work thanks to the DRO. We've never used the cross slide lock nor had a need for it. The gibs are adjusted to a "normal" level of no slop, but not much drag, either. To me, an Acu-rite or Fagor would be a waste on a Jet 1340. I have one of each DRO (plus an old Sony) in my shop. The Acu-rite sure is nice on a mill.
 

gr71

Plastic
Joined
Mar 30, 2015
Thanks for the input.

I actually like the Jet. It's a mid 90's model I've had since new. Some of the fasteners have been lackluster, but the spindle bearings have been quite impressive. The runout on the spindle is around a tenth.
 

guythatbrews

Hot Rolled
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
MO, USA
I used to run a great mori seiki engine lathe with a cross slide lock but seldom used it. Every once in a while yes.

Maybe a newall scale will fit around your lock. They are pretty diminutive and easier to install to it seems. Lots of talk about them here.

If you loose the lock and go optical I have several of the amazon types. Lots will pooh-pooh them but have had very good luck personally and lots of features. Much much more affordable. Less than $300 for 3 axis. Other than chinglish manual no problems at all.

Maybe you could cut the lock bolt down and make it a hex head. Mount the scale 1/8 away from the side of the cross slide. Make a thin wrench to reach the lock between cross slide and scale. Not as convenient as before but you'd have scale and lock too.
 

Terry Keeley

Stainless
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Location
Toronto, Canada eh!
I volunteer in the local high school's robotics program and put a DRO Pros glass scale DRO on their Jet 1340. It's been fine for about 3 years now, with student use and abuse. My only complaint about the DRO Pros unit is that it shows diameter (X) to the 1/2-tenth, i.e., 0.00005, which is useless and mostly just flickers. I have not found a setting short of masking tape to make the last digit disappear. Even the lathe is surviving reasonably well. For sure it's no Monarch 10EE or even Colchester, but it does decent work thanks to the DRO. We've never used the cross slide lock nor had a need for it. The gibs are adjusted to a "normal" level of no slop, but not much drag, either. To me, an Acu-rite or Fagor would be a waste on a Jet 1340. I have one of each DRO (plus an old Sony) in my shop. The Acu-rite sure is nice on a mill.

Which display do you have? On my EL400 it's under Setup Mode (wrench symbol), display resolution (dP), set to 5.0.
 

Soundguy.paul

Plastic
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
I have a hex key (L) cut so it's long enough to reach the the setscrew, but short enough to fit between the cross slide and the body of the Scales. I did add spacers to move the scale and read head. Depending on the location of your carriage lock you may also be able to use a hex bolt( My carriage lock bolt interfered with using a bolt for the CS lock). I also cut the long leg of the hex key to clear the compound when it is set at an angle . IMG-6355-small.jpgIMG-6356-Small.jpgIMG-6357-small.jpgIMG-6358-Small.jpg
 

ballen

Titanium
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Location
Garbsen, Germany
This is a much smaller lathe, but the same idea might work for yours:
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Do most people just go without the lock or do they make a new one somewhere else? I don't use it often but I do use it.

If you move it, where to? I've thought about drilling and tapping the top of the cross slide and placing a set screw that comes down on the top of the dove tail. The non-slidy part.
I was just looking at that option on my lathe this morning. I have an old Logan that has straight gibs rather than taper, with 4 setscrews. I was looking for a way to set them to the tightest possible tolerance, rather than leaving one as a lock. I was strongly considering doing precisely what you are asking, so I am watching for the responses.
 

bikemutt

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 5, 2022
I have a hex key (L) cut so it's long enough to reach the the setscrew, but short enough to fit between the cross slide and the body of the Scales. I did add spacers to move the scale and read head. Depending on the location of your carriage lock you may also be able to use a hex bolt( My carriage lock bolt interfered with using a bolt for the CS lock). I also cut the long leg of the hex key to clear the compound when it is set at an angle . View attachment 373411View attachment 373412View attachment 373413View attachment 373414
I went the same route you did; stubby hex key. I tried the hex head bolt approach too, found it awkward.
 

fciron

Stainless
Joined
Oct 14, 2009
Location
Louisville, KY, USA
The bearing surfaces for your cross slide are the angle of the dovetail and the lower flats. If you stick a set screw in the top that presses on the one noon-bearing surface you’ll be raising the slide off of one of its surfaces and making things less rigid.

If you must have a lock it should press the slide down and against one of the dovetail surfaces. Perhaps drill and tap and install a brass tipped screw opposite the current lock?
 








 
Top