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Dynasty 280 and stick welding

72bwhite

Titanium
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Location
California, Ventura county
OK I mostly just do tig on aluminum
In recent history

But need to weld some 3/4 A36 steel so thinking stick at least for the root pass
So I only have 2 welders they are Dynasty 280 and a Lincoln 255 mig, haven’t used the mig in ages

How well dose the Dynasty do in stick mode?

Any problems with running say 6010 or 7018?

So is the Dynasty up to the task?

Second question just weld from one side or both?
It will be small enough that I can flip it over, and can position it so
All the welds can be done horizontally.

Any good reason not to use 7018lh?
1/4 and 3/8 is the thickest stuff I normally do and well I can tig that.
 
I run stick with my 350 Syncrowave all the time. I did about 1/2 the welds to build my shop with 7014 and a Syncrowave 250. The 250 could handle just about anything, but the 350 always has extra when I want it.
 
My Dynasty 200DX welds stick just fine. Usually use 6010, 6013 or 7024. I don't do enough welding to justify an oven for low-H electrodes, so can't tell you about 7018.

I'm assuming the front panel controls on a 200DX and a 280 are similar. If you have been TIGing pretty much exclusively, don't forget to change the activation mode from pedal to "always on" (unless, of course, you want to stick weld with pedal control).
 
No one is going to die if it fails

Not the first time I have welded thick stuff with stick just been quit awhile
And that was with a Lincoln 200

I don’t trust that I would get good penetration with the mig.
 
My Dynasty 200DX welds stick just fine. Usually use 6010, 6013 or 7024. I don't do enough welding to justify an oven for low-H electrodes, so can't tell you about 7018.

I'm assuming the front panel controls on a 200DX and a 280 are similar. If you have been TIGing pretty much exclusively, don't forget to change the activation mode from pedal to "always on" (unless, of course, you want to stick weld with pedal control).


Control are mostly the same just wasn’t sure if they liked dc rods
Some of the inverts aren’t that great

7018 was my old go to rod but there might be something better out there now
With the tombstone buzz box 6013 was the go to but that sucks.
 
I had a Lincoln 255 for about 20 years. It was a good welder. I never had a problem burning in thick stuff with it. Lots of things where people would die if welds failed. From trailers to semi truck frames and crane booms.
 
When you say Lincoln 255 do you mean Wirematic 255? If so that's a great mig welder. We had one for over
20 years--just sold it recently because we're getting ready to shut down our shop.

The Dynasty will stick weld that just fine but why piss around with stick when you've got mig? If it were me I'd weld
it with the mig and never even think about it. Just prep it right and go for it...
 
People see some thick stuff and get weird about welding it. All the strength of a thick weldment comes from proper beveling and weldout. It would be stronger if you welded it with a 110v welder and went full pen bevel and proper weld out vs one pass with any other welder.
 
Yep, that's true. But it sure is a heck of a lot less time and work to do that with a big boy welder. That thick of material needs to be beveled out either way.
 
Kind of a given that you would bevel it

And well it would be rather tedious to do it with TIG
MY MIG welder needs a new liner and I don’t have a roll of bigger wire
I’m going to stick weld it. And don’t have to worry about the wind if it’s out side
Beveling will be with 9 inch grinding wheel on my Milwaukee grinder.
Plasma cutter is small Hypertherm

Actually is bar stock.
Will be a frame that gets a 3/8 or 1/4 plate welded on both sides.
Only 14 inches of 3/4 weld

What I want is for it to not be warped
 
I fairly frequently weld 1" 1018 barstock together end-to-end. Not a life dependent weld but straightness is important.
My recommendation is to bevel both sides with a 60* included angle. Leave a small flat on the ends of both bevels and when you put them together to weld, leave a small gap for the root pass.
Weld one side, flip, weld the other, flip, rinse and repeat as many times as you need. The flipping is how I deal with warp from contraction.
Flipping a 14" wide piece of 3/4" steel might be a challenge.
 
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