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Ex-Cell-O 602

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Hello everyone.

First, just wanted to introduce myself and offer my gratitude. I just purchased an ELO 602 from a local shop/warehouse. I had originally gone in to look at an old Cincinnati Toolmaster, but just couldn't get excited about it. The price was probably fair, but more than I wanted to spend on that particular machine. I asked if he had anything else, and he pointed to a couple of BP mills, but he wanted twice as much for those as he did the Toolmaster. I was about to leave, and asked if there was anything else, and he just looked at me and asked how mechanically inclined I was, and I just laughed and told him that I could fix just about anything if the parts were afailable, or if someone could make them. He said he had that old XLO and that he only wanted a grand for it. That was half what he wanted for the TM, and much less than what he wanted for the "refurbished" BP machines, so he had my attention. I asked him why it was so cheap, and he said the table was siezed up, and he just didn't want to mess with it. I asked if we could power it up so I could check the head(as much as you can by just powering it up). Spooled right up, and the variable speed worked like a champ. Tested the auto feed, and it also worked as it was supposed to. No smoke, chatter, or any really unusual noises. Only thing I could identify wrong with it aside from the table being siezed was it is missing the fine feed wheel for the quill. Closed the deal, and loaded it up, and took it home. It helps when you have a 3 ton crane on your truck.

First thing I did was power up the DRO. I had every intention of dismounting it and tossing it in the trash, but It works fine. A little hard to see the readout in bright daylight, but I imagine once I get it indoors, it will be fine. It is an old Teledyne Gurley Pathfinder 50. Will have to test it against a good dial indicator, but it seems to be as accurate as it is meant to be.

Got the easy part done, so I figured I would start in on the Table. Chased down a copy of the manual so I could be reasonably informed, and started backing the gibs out. They didn't want to cooperate at first, but a bit of penetrating oil got things moving. Once I got it loosened a bit I started running the power feed back and forth, and after a few passes everything was moving like glass. I haven't decided if I am going to stop there, re-adjust the gibs and call it good, or totally disassemble the table and knee for a thorough cleaning while I can get to it with the crane. If it was October, I would have already started, but Man, it is freaking hot outside.

Anyways, much appreciation to all who have posted previously about the XLO machines, and those who answered previous questions. Without that information at my fingertips, I might have passed on an awesome machine.
 

James H Clark

Stainless
Joined
May 11, 2011
Location
southern in.
Doug H : Since you have had some luck thus far, I would recommend that you pu;ll the table off and check and clean lubrication points. That may have been the original problem. I have an old X-Cello 602 and like it. It is my #2 mill, since I also have a 10X50 that I bought new. I particularly like the 6" quill stroke for drilling operations.
Good luck
JH
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Easier for me to do it with a crane. Not sure what the objection is, but there is no way I am going to chase down or build a cart when I have a perfectly good crane at my disposal.
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Getting started. Disassembled everything from the base up. Table was a piece of cake with the crane. Pulled the lead screw and gib, slid it out to one side, and centered my sling. Came off perfectly level. And moved it well out of the way. Cross slide and lead was about as easy as the table. the knee gave me fits. First there was a roll pin that didn’t want to come out(yes I was using a roll pin punch), then there was another roll pin that didn’t have clearance to drive out. Got it most of the way out, and then had to do some crazy stuff to get it the rest of the way. Finally, the woodruff key on the bevel gear to the jack screw kept rolling and binding. Took a little while to figure out what was happening. Once I figured it out, picked the knee up a little, reset the key with a punch, and repeat. Knee lifted off perfectly level, which was an unexpected blessing. Getting it off is no issue, even if it tips a little, but putting it back on would have been a bear if it lifted all catywompus.
 
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Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Will attach some pictures later. Looks like I will have to resize them before I can post. In any case, I am sure that much of the original issue was related to how much junk and gunk was trapped in the ways. Everything looks reasonably good other than that. The cross slide lead screw is worn pretty bad, but it looks like it has enough life in it that I will run it as it is until I can come up with a new one or have one made. There was a lot of brass shavings so it is also a candidate for replacement. Not sure if those parts are available, so I may have to live with it.

For what it is worth, the one shot seems to be working as intended. Didn’t find anything plugged up, and everything seems to be getting oil. Going to go thru each point individually and verify, but a casual inspection shows everything to be good.
 

James H Clark

Stainless
Joined
May 11, 2011
Location
southern in.
Doug H: Glad that everything seems to be going well, Does your machine have Bijur oil fittings ? If so, remember that these are metering devices. That is to say that each one needs to tested. This is done simply by removing them from the machine and re-attaching them to the oil line where they were originally attached. Then operate the pump and observe how much oil is passing thru the fitting. Be careful not to mix them up, each is sized for its point of use. If you get one that no oil passes thru it, will need to replace it. They are marked for type and size. For instance, a number of 000 is the least amount of flow. One with number of 8 is the greatest amount of oil passing thru. Good luck.
JH
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Doug H: Glad that everything seems to be going well, Does your machine have Bijur oil fittings ? If so, remember that these are metering devices. That is to say that each one needs to tested. This is done simply by removing them from the machine and re-attaching them to the oil line where they were originally attached. Then operate the pump and observe how much oil is passing thru the fitting. Be careful not to mix them up, each is sized for its point of use. If you get one that no oil passes thru it, will need to replace it. They are marked for type and size. For instance, a number of 000 is the least amount of flow. One with number of 8 is the greatest amount of oil passing thru. Good luck.
JH
Yeah, I spoke too soon. The X and Y axis seem to be getting all the oil. There was virtually none going to the knee. Pulled those fittings and they were in pretty bad shape. Some of the springs were laying in the orfice, and the little valve plates were corroded beyond use. Will see if I can id the sizes and just order all new ones.
 

Trueturning

Diamond
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Will attach some pictures later. Looks like I will have to resize them before I can post. In any case, I am sure that much of the original issue was related to how much junk and gunk was trapped in the ways. Everything looks reasonably good other than that. The cross slide lead screw is worn pretty bad, but it looks like it has enough life in it that I will run it as it is until I can come up with a new one or have one made. There was a lot of brass shavings so it is also a candidate for replacement. Not sure if those parts are available, so I may have to live with it.

For what it is worth, the one shot seems to be working as intended. Didn’t find anything plugged up, and everything seems to be getting oil. Going to go thru each point individually and verify, but a casual inspection shows everything to be good.
Thanks we will appreciate pictures. It looks like you found a really good deal. Too bad you did not also find a cou-Le of good lathes too.
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Some progress pics.
 

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Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Cleaning is done. Time for reassembly. Of course, I lost that stupid key that gave me fits coming apart, so have to make a trip to Ace tomorrow before I can continue reassembly. Will do a good function test at each stage, before moving on. Don't want to have to take this thing apart again anytime soon.
 

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Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Question for the experts. I did some rough measurements and I believe the lead screw is 1"-5TPI. I was able to find some blank screw material and might just order some and have a new cross slide screw made. Also found some nuts with that thread, that I believe would be usable to make new ones. Have any of you guys ever gone that route. Seems like an easy solution to hard to find parts.

 

ncjeeper

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Location
SW Virginia
Is that the original paint color? If so it looks pretty good. Mine was painted black when I got it, ugh. I went back with machinery gray.
 

lucky7

Stainless
Joined
Sep 6, 2008
Location
Canada
Much prefer the double knee lock your XLO has rather than single on Bport. Suggest running a pipe cleaner thru oil passages while you have machine apart.
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Hi Doug H:
Are you sure it's right hand thread?

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
To be honest, I haven’t looked, but would have done so before I ordered anything. I was just sort of excited to find what might be an easier fix to the lash in the cross slide, than trying to find OEM parts or having them made from scratch. Thanks for reminding me, anyways. Would have been a bummer to end up with the cross slide working opposite from what is should.
 

Doug H

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Another question for the smart guys. The gib adjustment in the table is pretty straightforward, and is largely by feel. Pretty confident I can get that without any help.

On the other hand, I finished up the knee install, and it runs very smoothly, but if I am honest, I don’t really have a good “feel” for the gib adjustment on it. Got it snugged down pretty tight, and honestly can’t tell much difference from a looser setting. How do you guys know when you have it right?
 








 
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