DaveC
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2006
- Location
- SF Bay Area
Hi rimcanyon, thank you for the reply.
Yes, I realize that I need to keep the saddle and apron together to adjust the half nut clearances. And I know that the goal is to have an indicator show zero vertical deflection of the lead screw as the half nuts are engaged. But I don't know how the nuts actually get adjusted, and none of the reading I have done mentions how to do it. So I thought that I had no choice but to to drop the apron to try and figure it out. But if it is possible to adjust the half nuts with the carriage in situ, I would love to know how to do it.
I did answer Mike's question in the later part of Post #8: I do keep the hold down blocks adjusted tight and I fitted them with all new bearings. I admit that I didn't fully appreciate until now how reverse cutting inverts all the the cutting forces. But again, the original friction problem happened even with the tool retracted from the work, meaning cutting forces weren't a factor.
Yes, I realize that I need to keep the saddle and apron together to adjust the half nut clearances. And I know that the goal is to have an indicator show zero vertical deflection of the lead screw as the half nuts are engaged. But I don't know how the nuts actually get adjusted, and none of the reading I have done mentions how to do it. So I thought that I had no choice but to to drop the apron to try and figure it out. But if it is possible to adjust the half nuts with the carriage in situ, I would love to know how to do it.
I did answer Mike's question in the later part of Post #8: I do keep the hold down blocks adjusted tight and I fitted them with all new bearings. I admit that I didn't fully appreciate until now how reverse cutting inverts all the the cutting forces. But again, the original friction problem happened even with the tool retracted from the work, meaning cutting forces weren't a factor.