static99899
Plastic
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2013
- Location
- Decatur, TX USA
I bought a used 1996 Fadal 4020a with the 15hp 7500rpm rigid tap spindle. As the title says, if I command an M19, sometimes it orients and most of the time it does not. If I command S1000 M3, it turns CCW at about 55 rpm and has the spindle load meter pegged at 150%. It never errors out, so I hit the spindle stop button and sometimes it stops, sometimes is shudders CW and CCW until it stops and sometimes it continues to spin at about 30 rpm.
Those are the symptoms and now I will list what I have checked or replaced; in the order I replaced/checked them. Please note, none of these have made any change at all:
1) verified voltages incoming were correct, and balanced within 5 volts. This was checked at the transformer, and at the spindle inverter.
2) verified and added addition machine ground to earth ground rod
3) verified DC voltages coming from power supply in control cabinet.
4) Checked encoder cabling for shorts with meter, none found
5) unplugged encoder, it runs at the correct rpm for 3 seconds the says "motor overload" and shuts the spindle off (so it sees the encoder feedback is missing when unplugged)
6) since I don't have an oscilloscope, I replaced the US digital encoder
7) swapped 1010-4 spindle card for a known good 1010-4 spindle card
8) Bought a battery box from cncpros to directly test spindle drive, drive failed the tests due to still having the issue after bypassing control cards, so...
9) bought a brand new Glentek spindle inverter, and the problem persists! (mode 1; 15hp 7.5krpm sensored)
So I did try to operate the spindle drive in a mode that doesn't require the encoder input and it will work perfectly in this mode. It spins at the speed given by the battery box and turns the correct direction. On this setting, it's the wrong rpm for my machine(15hp 10krpm VFD), so I can't leave it there and I'd like to retain my rigid tap feature, so this is not a good permanent option.
Neither the original Baldor drive nor the new Glentek show an error of any kind. Both display the wrong rpm and direction of the actual motion.
I'm running out of ideas and money to throw at it in parts so if anyone has a suggestion, I'd loved to get another perspective before calling the local tech out to the tune of $150/hr.
Edit: Between 6 & 7, I did replace with a brand new hall sensor for the orient and it does show it works in the DI page.
Those are the symptoms and now I will list what I have checked or replaced; in the order I replaced/checked them. Please note, none of these have made any change at all:
1) verified voltages incoming were correct, and balanced within 5 volts. This was checked at the transformer, and at the spindle inverter.
2) verified and added addition machine ground to earth ground rod
3) verified DC voltages coming from power supply in control cabinet.
4) Checked encoder cabling for shorts with meter, none found
5) unplugged encoder, it runs at the correct rpm for 3 seconds the says "motor overload" and shuts the spindle off (so it sees the encoder feedback is missing when unplugged)
6) since I don't have an oscilloscope, I replaced the US digital encoder
7) swapped 1010-4 spindle card for a known good 1010-4 spindle card
8) Bought a battery box from cncpros to directly test spindle drive, drive failed the tests due to still having the issue after bypassing control cards, so...
9) bought a brand new Glentek spindle inverter, and the problem persists! (mode 1; 15hp 7.5krpm sensored)
So I did try to operate the spindle drive in a mode that doesn't require the encoder input and it will work perfectly in this mode. It spins at the speed given by the battery box and turns the correct direction. On this setting, it's the wrong rpm for my machine(15hp 10krpm VFD), so I can't leave it there and I'd like to retain my rigid tap feature, so this is not a good permanent option.
Neither the original Baldor drive nor the new Glentek show an error of any kind. Both display the wrong rpm and direction of the actual motion.
I'm running out of ideas and money to throw at it in parts so if anyone has a suggestion, I'd loved to get another perspective before calling the local tech out to the tune of $150/hr.
Edit: Between 6 & 7, I did replace with a brand new hall sensor for the orient and it does show it works in the DI page.
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