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First VMC

E-stop and machine power off. Is there another way I should power it down?

To turn a CNC on you turn the air on, circuit breaker on, then the control on. To turn it off, you turn the control off, turn the breaker off and turn the air off.

Never involved E-stop in any routine myself.
 
To turn a CNC on you turn the air on, circuit breaker on, then the control on. To turn it off, you turn the control off, turn the breaker off and turn the air off.

Never involved E-stop in any routine myself.

The setup tech told me to leave the breaker on. Is it common to turn them off? They also said you cannot shut down a Doosan without physically hitting the e-stop. My air is always on, so nothing to change there.
 
That doesn't sound right. The breaker powers all the drives, fans, etc. If you want 90% of the machine on all the time, go for it.

My Puma shuts down just like any other CNC.
 
That doesn't sound right. The breaker powers all the drives, fans, etc. If you want 90% of the machine on all the time, go for it.

My Puma shuts down just like any other CNC.

I guess that's what the backup batteries are for?

I'll try when I go back to the shop, but I tried to press machine off and it didn't do anything.
 
Yeah, you need to switch off the main circuit breaker (MCCB) on the machine to power down fully. My install tech and instructions told me to do that. E-stop, control off, turn off MCCB. I leave air on all the time. My machine does not use air when powered off.
 
Okay sounds like I will switch the breaker! Thanks! I need to get a new air compressor...this piston is killing me
 
This forum was very helpful when I was deciding on my first VMC. Was initially looking at a VF2 or DM2 but didn't like how they nickel and dimed me for everything. After I customized the machine, they were not priced competitively. I called up DMG and they basically told me there was nothing in my price range, but I should come by and check out their factory :D Same with Okuma. Read a lot of really positive reviews on the Doosans and after months of research and number crunching I settled on the DNM4500.

Was a pretty big process getting my space prepped. Had to relocate my existing staircase, run the 3P wiring from my panel, which turns out is only 100A. I was praying that I would not have to remove my existing lift. Some time later.

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VMC? I see a high horsepower rubber grinder in the foreground, tire changer and balancer in the background. And a bonnet hung up on the wall. Some blue thing in background.
I am getting ready to grind some rubber as well. Think later in April when the abrasive surface opens for the season. Got a new GT4 grinder to break in. Shark Blue almost like your other machine.
 
VMC? I see a high horsepower rubber grinder in the foreground, tire changer and balancer in the background. And a bonnet hung up on the wall. Some blue thing in background.
I am getting ready to grind some rubber as well. Think later in April when the abrasive surface opens for the season. Got a new GT4 grinder to break in. Shark Blue almost like your other machine.

First personal project is going to be a power steering bracket so I can finish up my electric Cup power steering conversion. Congrats on the GT4, such a wonderful car!

Unfortunately...that pet project is going to have to wait. Had a stressful day at the shop. Probed the Z of my parallel and added back the height of the part (plenty of clearance) through the input menu on the work offset page. Hit cancel instead of OK. Had my rapids at 50% and my hand on the feed hold but I didn't catch it.

Parallels were 311 below the top of the steel jaws. Had my feed set at 200. Not sure what speed the spindle was going when it made contact. Expensive lessons learned today. I just hope the spindle is okay. 100% my fault, I should have taken a picture of the work offset before and verified.

On a positive note, at least I didn't take out the body of the vise or my $5 parallel. And, I figured out how to disable the soft-travel alarms.

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Things continue to be spicy over here. Buddy came by last night for another part and proceeded to throw it out the vise and blow out another Seco. First time he's ever thrown a part in his career. He thinks what happened was that he normally roughs with a 1.25 copy mill with a 0.15 ramp. We were using a 2.00. Best guess is the the wider tool combined with the ramp angle grabbed the part.

Tangentially, this was odd...the I disabled the over travel alarm but I'm not sure if it saved after I shut down. Is there anything that needs to be done other than flipping the bit and disabling param write?

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A "copy mill" seems like the wrong tool for the job, assuming you mean a cutter like in post #31. I see a really wide cutting edge engagement all at once. Were you using sharp, high positive rake inserts?
 
Well something funky is going on. I had enabled param write, set address 1300 NAL to 0. The over travel alarms were disabled. Next machine restart they were reenabled. Double checked params and the bit was still set to 0. So, just to test I reset it to 1. Doing so disabled the alarms again. Am I missing something?

I also confirmed that I can hit feed hold, switch to MDI, then request the door open and the spindle stops. Now I can actually measure instead of eyeballing. This controller still boggles my mind. I think I still hate it.

On a better note, proofed some programs and I didn't destroy the machine. Need to adjust do finish passes on each depth pass instead of a dynamic rough and then finish. Living up to my chattermax reputation :D
 

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Between work, life, and the Y way cover failing I haven't had much time to spend with the machine.

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Anyways, here's the world's most expensive part :)

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