Brandenberger
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2017
Hi,
Finally getting around to addressing oil leak from elevating screw on the VN22L knee.
I thought i'd document the details as I find them, since at least one other member indicated they also will be getting to this at some point on their machine.
I found a document a while back on this from VN, and posted it to Vintage Machinery: Van Norman Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints - Installing elevating screw on Van Norman 22L, 22M | VintageMachinery.org
Notes:
1) removed left side cover as instructed. It seems like the right side cover doesn't need to come off (clutch mechanism), but doing so would help with removal of the double bevel gear later.
2) block up knee at top position so it can't fall while you're working on it.
3) remove lock nut from top of vertical screw shaft. Access to the lockwasher prong wasn't easy, I ground a 45degree tooth onto the end of a piece of 1/8" steel bar to tap on the end of the lock. Then remove nut, I wedged a piece of brass between the bevel gears and then used a punch to start the locknut turning.
4) at this point the screw can be made to drop through, may need some persuasion. The double bevel gear can be removed without removing two single bevel gears that mate with it... I found this to work by sliding it toward the right (clutch side) of the knee. Note: the double bevel gear has an an inset bronze thrust washer, and that thrust washer is kept from rotating by a pin on the top of the housing. So, you cannot slide off the bevel gear with the thrust washer still inset. Access from the clutch side panel may help here.
5) removing the housing from the bottom-- I used threaded rod and nuts to pull the housing down out of the machine after removing the 4 SHCS. The housing is a pretty tight fit and might have some sort of sealant, so some pulling arrangement is better than trying to tap/pound on the top.
6) oil seal in top of housing is 1.625 OD by 1" ID. After 70 years or so, the seals aren't a lot of fun to remove, original looks like a Garlock-type part.
more later... when my oil seal replacement arrives...
Finally getting around to addressing oil leak from elevating screw on the VN22L knee.
I thought i'd document the details as I find them, since at least one other member indicated they also will be getting to this at some point on their machine.
I found a document a while back on this from VN, and posted it to Vintage Machinery: Van Norman Machine Tool Co. - Publication Reprints - Installing elevating screw on Van Norman 22L, 22M | VintageMachinery.org
Notes:
1) removed left side cover as instructed. It seems like the right side cover doesn't need to come off (clutch mechanism), but doing so would help with removal of the double bevel gear later.
2) block up knee at top position so it can't fall while you're working on it.
3) remove lock nut from top of vertical screw shaft. Access to the lockwasher prong wasn't easy, I ground a 45degree tooth onto the end of a piece of 1/8" steel bar to tap on the end of the lock. Then remove nut, I wedged a piece of brass between the bevel gears and then used a punch to start the locknut turning.
4) at this point the screw can be made to drop through, may need some persuasion. The double bevel gear can be removed without removing two single bevel gears that mate with it... I found this to work by sliding it toward the right (clutch side) of the knee. Note: the double bevel gear has an an inset bronze thrust washer, and that thrust washer is kept from rotating by a pin on the top of the housing. So, you cannot slide off the bevel gear with the thrust washer still inset. Access from the clutch side panel may help here.
5) removing the housing from the bottom-- I used threaded rod and nuts to pull the housing down out of the machine after removing the 4 SHCS. The housing is a pretty tight fit and might have some sort of sealant, so some pulling arrangement is better than trying to tap/pound on the top.
6) oil seal in top of housing is 1.625 OD by 1" ID. After 70 years or so, the seals aren't a lot of fun to remove, original looks like a Garlock-type part.
more later... when my oil seal replacement arrives...