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Forging Tapers on square hsteel bars

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Feb 27, 2019
Hi All, I have a project that We need to make a large qty of spurs for the top of a fence to match the existing. Castings are not available . I'm looking for a machine to taper the ends of 3/4" HR square bar taper from 3/4" down to 1/4" over 3" obviously we can't do this over an anvil, so I'm looking at a machine with possibly 2 rollers on eccentric that we can pre heat the bar and roll it to the taper.

any suggestions would be greatly areciated.


Regards Chris
 
There are rolls to taper the ends of a bar hebo is the one small scale one I am aware of. But typically tapering like this is roughed out on flat or roughing dies and finished with taper dies on a power hammer.
What's a large quantity? I would suggest you find a local blacksmith with a hammer and sub it out. With a decent size hammer those could be knocked out pretty quickly.
 
This was done by hand on an anvil for 2000 years, and, for the last couple hundred, with power hammers. But I have no idea if there are any power hammers on Barbados. Its true a Hebo would do this, but a Hebo is not cheap. These days I would not be surprised at all if you were looking at $30,000 to $50,000 for one.
 
I only see three ways.

Use a power hammer.

Find a local smith willing to do them.

Or use a facemill to take them down. Although each bar would require 4 cuts it should be possible to gang a few together so you are not milling them one at a time.
 
This was done by hand on an anvil for 2000 years, and, for the last couple hundred, with power hammers. But I have no idea if there are any power hammers on Barbados. Its true a Hebo would do this, but a Hebo is not cheap. These days I would not be surprised at all if you were looking at $30,000 to $50,000 for one.
far longer than that, actually, especially if you include copper and precious metals.
 
I've done this with hammer and power hammer but the simple way would be to just hand grind a die and a press.

We'd do that all the time but use the power hammer to form it in..

It might take a progression of dies
But you can just use mild steel plate.
Whereas rollers and bearing really don't like hot work unless designed for it.
 
To do a hundred of these, by eye on a power hammer, with blacksmith tolerances (as opposed to machinist tolerances) would take an experienced blacksmith a few hours at most. There are semi-industrial artist blacksmiths in Florida who could do this. The problem occurs when they are at the end of 8' pieces of 3/4" square, where the logistics and cost of shipping adds up.
I have also simply built a jig for a little 4x6 horizontal bandsaw, and sawn these tips, but its slow. Works, though. We did it for a big project involving much shorter tapers in stainless that were on two sides only. Too fussy to forge.
But for a 3" long taper, hot forging would be my automatic go-to.
 
Thanks For your feedback guys, sorry for not replying sooner, must have missed the notification. we ended up subbing out to a blacksmith, consistency was not great but we are spending time with a grinder to make them decent. Regards Chris
 
To do a hundred of these, by eye on a power hammer, with blacksmith tolerances (as opposed to machinist tolerances) would take an experienced blacksmith a few hours at most. There are semi-industrial artist blacksmiths in Florida who could do this. The problem occurs when they are at the end of 8' pieces of 3/4" square, where the logistics and cost of shipping adds up.
I have also simply built a jig for a little 4x6 horizontal bandsaw, and sawn these tips, but its slow. Works, though. We did it for a big project involving much shorter tapers in stainless that were on two sides only. Too fussy to forge.
But for a 3" long taper, hot forging would be my automatic go-to.
Hi Ries just noticed your post mentioning saw cutting short tapers. What we often do when we need to Forge short tapers is to make 2 parts at once and use a scissor type tool to cut them in half. Or just cut a piece of scrap off the end. On a repeating or big job you can make a custom cut off tool with a custom taper. You could even cut part way through and finish with a saw if you needed a flat on the tips. The off cut backs up the taper.

I learned this trick from a steel mill blacksmith who started in the Stelco blacksmith shop at 15 during the war. Retired at 70.
 








 
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