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FP1 4MT Tooling

MagnusVM

Plastic
Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Location
Utah
Hello,
Ok I know this has been discussed because I’ve read some threads on it, however they go way over my head.

I’ve been cleaning up a new to me Fp1 for a while now. I’d actually like to start making some chips, but I have to figure out what direction to go with tooling. The way I see it there’s 3 options.

1. Use the sleeve (currently stuck in the spindle) to use the 20mm collets. Am I correct these are called U2? I read somewhere that this approach is suited toward light work. Only one of these 20mm collets came with the machine.

2. Get an Er32 setup from singer. This goes directly into the #4 taper correct?

3. Try to find some 4MT collets or end mill holders or whatever. I understand these are hard to find, i figure I only need 4 or 5 in the common sizes. As you can tell I’m low on the knowledge curve.

Is there a preferred method? Also are there considerations to be made for using the holders on the dividing head and horizontal spindle as well?

You help is appreciated.

Thank you.
Magnus
 
Hi there,

back when I had the ALG 100 (an FP1 knock off, MT4), I mainly used an MT4 - ER32 chuck.
Standard cheap chuck off ebay, shortened a bit and fitted with a M16-S20x2 thread adaptor for the drawbar. Covered me for tools from 1 to 20 mm, very important when you're starting and don't have many tools.
Vertical or horizontal doesn't matter.

MT4 arbors are nice as well, you can use shell mills or face mills on them. Modified MT4 work fine, don't need to be Deckel specific.

Direct MT4 collets need to be Deckel, due to the drawbar thread. U2 collets are nice for when Z headlight is an issue, but for light work as you said.

Long story short, any MT4 tool (except collets) can be modified for the Deckel drawbar if you have a lathe.

Enjoy
BR,
Thanos
 
Hi there,

back when I had the ALG 100 (an FP1 knock off, MT4), I mainly used an MT4 - ER32 chuck.
Standard cheap chuck off ebay, shortened a bit and fitted with a M16-S20x2 thread adaptor for the drawbar. Covered me for tools from 1 to 20 mm, very important when you're starting and don't have many tools.
Vertical or horizontal doesn't matter.

MT4 arbors are nice as well, you can use shell mills or face mills on them. Modified MT4 work fine, don't need to be Deckel specific.

Direct MT4 collets need to be Deckel, due to the drawbar thread. U2 collets are nice for when Z headlight is an issue, but for light work as you said.

Long story short, any MT4 tool (except collets) can be modified for the Deckel drawbar if you have a lathe.

Enjoy
BR,
Thanos

Thanks for the info. I’ve got a couple other questions if you don’t mind.

1. The x axis lead screw has the two nuts on the side of the auto feed stick that are tightened to take up backlash. Is there a bronze bushing or something between the inside nut and the cast piece the lead screw passes. (Photo)

2. Also what do the screws I’m pointing at do?

Sorry for the crap photos. I don’t know how to get the file size small.

Thanks again.
Mags
 

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Thanks for the info. I’ve got a couple other questions if you don’t mind.

1. The x axis lead screw has the two nuts on the side of the auto feed stick that are tightened to take up backlash. Is there a bronze bushing or something between the inside nut and the cast piece the lead screw passes. (Photo)

2. Also what do the screws I’m pointing at do?

Sorry for the crap photos. I don’t know how to get the file size small.

Thanks again.
Mags
Hi there,

1. you mean the operator side X slide end cover, the one with the handwheel. Not sure how it is on the FP1 but there should be some kind of thrust bearing there (plain or ball).

2. Those are bracket where the Y bellows click on and stay fixed.

BR,
Thanos
 








 
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