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Getting at the FP3 powerfeed gears

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Plastic
Joined
Feb 15, 2022
Hello everyone.

I am happy to be a new member here and pleased to say that I have recently picked up a Deckel FP2 and FP3 in good condition.

There are however a few snags to get through.

Right now I am trying to get at the FP3 knee powerfeed selector gears. If you look at the component diagram below you will see a little part labeled 2700-1317, which balloons out to assembly 23. I think this part is worn, causing the one crown gear to engauge a little bit in the idle start and creating a "tick tick tick" noise as the powerfeed shaft spins around. Now it's great that I have the spare parts catalog with the exploded diagrams, it has helped figure this out. But the thing is it does not detail the castings, so understanding where the assemblies fit in them has been a challenge. The last thing I did to try get access to this little part was move the saddle almost off its slides to see if there was an access hole in the knee. There was not. Now I think I may have to take the knee off entirely to see if there is an access hole behind it. Has anyone taken one of these apart before and can possible advise on the next step to do?
FP3 powr feed selector.jpg

The clue that this part is making the noise is that when the selector gears shift downwards to engage the bottom gear the noise disappears completely.
 

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Access to those gears that drive the vertical slide up or down , and power the "X" axis lead screw is through the rear of the vertical casting.....
Must take it off the machine to gain access.....

There is a sheet steel cover plate on the rear of the vertical casting that once removed will give you access to the gearing you seek.....

This is a job that requires lifting equipment.
Easiest if you first remove the table and "X" axis slide although it can be done with those parts still intact, but as a new guy with this machine suggest the more through tear down...
Besides it will give you a chance to inspect the "X" slide and gib.

To get the vertical slide off, Loosen the retaining bolts on the flat plate gibs on the back of the vertical box ways.....
Remove the way wipers from the front of the "Y" slide (this will give a bit more clearance.
Remove the vertical way wiper on the top of the vertical slide.

Loosen the side gib on the vertical box way (operators side)

Attach a lifting line to the casting....Crank the "Z" axis to the top of travel.....Might need to remove the power feed trip stops for the Z. Believe there is also a hard stop block (FP3 depends of build date)

Move the "Y" slide as far to the rear as possible (again remove the power feed trip and hard stop plates. If there is a plug to blank off the horizontal spindle, remove it.
Lift using the hand wheel and your crane ....be sure to take the weight as you go
You will get to the limit of the vertical screw...Keep going but don't allow the slide to bang against the screw nut as it gets to the limit...keep the weight on the crane (prevents damage to the bronze nut for the vertical screw)

Once off the nut you can lift the entire vertical slide up and out away from the main casting (remove the rear plate gibs to allow this) and off the machine...Of course you need enough lift in the original setup to allow all this....

Cheers Ross
 
Is your machine running the right direction ??
Powerfeeds on a Deckel only work when the motor is running the right direction
In reverse they make a clicking noise sometimes
Another problem often is broken tapered pins Tha cause is often incorrect shearpins or a coulission to the end of travel because of missing stopdogs
A bitch to remove a broken shearpin if you cannot get to see where it is

One more thing to remember If you take the slide off
When reassembling carefully guide the keyway from the smooth shaft with keyway into the key in the hole
The little notch on the key cannot hold the weight of the assembly

Peter
 
Now I think I may have to take the knee off entirely to see if there is an access hole behind it. Has anyone taken one of these apart before and can possible advise on the next step to do?

The "search" function at the top of this page will provide a lot of detailed information. For example here is one thread with some detailed photos of an FP2 teardown. It is worth spending a few hours reading through some of these threads, because it will save you much more time than that in your own repairs.

FP2 vertical table and support tear-down and reassembly

I suggest that you proceed cautiously to avoid doing any harm. Fortunately there are some very experienced people here (like Peter and Ross) who give very good advice!

Cheers,
Bruce
 
Thanks for the responses guys, you have given me valuable insight into this effort. I haven't had much time to continue the rebuild at the moment but when I get around to it I'll post my progress here.

Peter, the machine was running in the right direction. Also when turning the knee handle to move the Z axis without the powerfeed lever engaged it would also make the noise.

I will be careful with this job, I'd like to keep the machine a long time.
 
Thanks for the responses guys, you have given me valuable insight into this effort. I haven't had much time to continue the rebuild at the moment but when I get around to it I'll post my progress here.

Peter, the machine was running in the right direction. Also when turning the knee handle to move the Z axis without the powerfeed lever engaged it would also make the noise.

I will be careful with this job, I'd like to keep the machine a long time.
 
If it is making that clicking sound when turning the knee handle manually it probably is something else
perhaps the shearpin in one or both of the oneway clutch is torn
This can happen if you put put in a to strong or long shearpin
No fun job when thats what it is

peter
 
Hi guys.

I am finally getting around to fixing this problem.

After checking the other teardown linked in this thread I have tried to lift the saddle off the top of the machine. The leadscrew and powerfeed bar release the bottom just fine, however the head doesn't seem to be able to move far back enough for the saddle to clear. Do you guys know if I can move the head back a little further? It seems to just need 2mm or so. The saddle almost fits passed it but scrapes the paint, and if I continue to lift it look like there will be a problem.
 

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Remove the plates that hold the carriage at the back of the Z That will give the clearance needed
Also remove all tapered gibs
If the carriage comes free it may tumble a bit and if it is locked some way it may damage something
So make it free hanging
Peter
 
Photo suggests that you still have the vertical DRO scale fitted. Need to unbolt the read head if you are going to tilt the vertical slide forward for clearance by slacking the back vertical keeper plate gibs.....

Not positive, but think you can gain just enough clearance (extra movement of the "Y" slide) if you remove the hard doweled feed stop on the forward end of the "Y" slide. Can't tell from your photo as the lamp bracket is obstructing the view of the stop plate.
Cheers Ross
 








 
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