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Gorton 2-28 woes.

phils3rgarage

Plastic
Joined
Jun 10, 2023
Hi all, have a Gorton 2-28. First mill I've owned. When I got it all seemed well with machine. As far as I can tell the issue I have found is the only one. But a big one.

I have not been able to remove the tool holder from the spindle. I have removed the draw bar and the collar/nut at the bottom of the spindle. I have tried to soak in pb blaster and anything else I had on hand to what appears to be no avail.

What I have found is an old gummy residue over spindle as well as some vertical movement in shaft. My questions are as follows.

1. What advice to remove tool holder? It is Gorton's quick change collet system.

2. With the coller removed what are the odds I pressed a bearing out when trying to press (not hammer) the tool holder out?

3. What grease should I use if I take apart spindle completely?

4. Can someone please clue me in to the appropriate wrench's to be using to tighten and loosen parts on the spindle, bearing retainer, and collet retainer.

Thanks and have a good day.
 
This is gonna be a bitch. The 28 is a little old - they went to 30 a long time ago. And the standard taper was a brown & sharpe. And having the collet chuck on there means the thing has probably not been removed for at least fifty years, probably seventy. B&S tapers are hard to pop out if they've been in for ten minutes, much less fifty years.

On the 1-22's there's a flange on the drawbar close to the top, then a hollow nut with a face that goes over it, so that when you back out the drawbar, it pushes up against this nut to push the toolholder down. Look up at the top of the spindle where the drawbar comes out and see if there's a thread up there for that nut ?

I had an Enco quick-change thingy (said west germany on it, so not exactly current) on a 1-22, #9 b&s, after just a few years of not removing it I popped it out ... put about a hundred tons of pressure on the drawbar and let it sit for a few days, then another hundred and she popped loose. Neighbors ran over, thought I shot someone, it was that loud. Or maybe they hoped someone shot me, you never know.

You could ask dalmatiangirl for advice, she just did a 1-22 recently, I think had the same stuck toolholder situation ?

Really nice mill tho, it's worth the effort.

Good luck.
 
If the 2-28 was built like the 1-22, then the drawbar should push the toolholder out. Did you have to make a tool to remove the LH threaded drawbar nut? Or just unscrew the drawbar from toolholder and lift out?

I recently rebuilt the vari-drive portion of the head on my 1-22, did not pull the spindle so cannot provide any insight there.
 
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So far I have very few pictures (won't be able to work on it again until Tuesday) but I'll post what I have, I removed the collar nut from the draw bar area by hand. Was not aware that it was supposed to help press it out. But I removed the normal draw bar by just using a crescent wrench.


After I removed the pictured nut/ coller I tried to press the holder out but have a feeling that I moved a bearing. I have movement in spindle but unsure if it was there after I just removed the nut/ coller.

Well I thought the normal taper was nmtb 40 as well and actually just bought a Gorton piece for nmtb 40.....guess I'll get to see how lucky I am.

I'm looking to use this mill to resurface some cylinder heads and pistons for some pet projects of mine that I didn't want to farm out(read as "for what I want to try it will either cost to much or I'll be laughed at")
 

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I removed the collar nut from the draw bar area by hand. Was not aware that it was supposed to help press it out. But I removed the normal draw bar by just using a crescent wrench.
I'm not quite following your description, the collar for drawbar on the 1-22 is recessed about 6" into upper part of spindle and removing by hand would fall under impossible, but maybe the 2-28 is different, idk. Did you unscrew drawbar and remove before the nut, or after removing the nut? If its the proper drawbar you would have to remove the nut in order to remove drawbar, assuming its like the 1-22. On several occasions to remove the toolholder I have had to bolt an angle plate to the table and use it as a stop for the wrench on toolholder, then put a wrench on drawbar with a 2' or so long cheater bar, then use both hands to give the cheater bar a good shove so it pops the tool holder out.
 
So far I have very few pictures (won't be able to work on it again until Tuesday) but I'll post what I have, I removed the collar nut from the draw bar area by hand. Was not aware that it was supposed to help press it out. But I removed the normal draw bar by just using a crescent wrench.


After I removed the pictured nut/ coller I tried to press the holder out but have a feeling that I moved a bearing. I have movement in spindle but unsure if it was there after I just removed the nut/ coller.

Well I thought the normal taper was nmtb 40 as well and actually just bought a Gorton piece for nmtb 40.....guess I'll get to see how lucky I am.

I'm looking to use this mill to resurface some cylinder heads and pistons for some pet projects of mine that I didn't want to farm out(read as "for what I want to try it will either cost to much or I'll be laughed at")
I believe there's one of those Gorton nmtb 40 quick change arbors in our misc pile at the shop if you determine you have a use for it. As much trouble as you're having getting it to release, it is definitely sounding more like a B & S taper. Used to hate those.
I ran into a B S (SYOZ) COLLET Arbor years back that required a machined plate with screws attached around arbor above collet nut to act as a puller against bottom of spindle to finally break the two loose. Sounded like the spindle had snapped when it finally released. Good luck with yours
 
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Hi all, have a few updates. sadly phone died so i was not able to take pictures. But I have located the nut that goes over draw bar and I hope will press out the tool holder. Any advice on this? I have the whole spindle removed from machine already.

My movement in spindle that I was concerned was bearings being pressed out did go away once i tried to put what i refer to as the "collar" back in at the base.

I can confirm that I am one of the unlucky gorton owners and have B&S 10 taper spindle. Are there any adapters to go to something more common? other than drilling precise holes and end mill work on some cast iron/ aluminum I really plan on using this to resurface cylinder heads so im looking to be as sturdy as i can be. Ive been told not to use a collet to retain the flycutter and I would agree(sadly enough my collet kit for the tool holder does go to the 1 inch i need), the shank is probably about 4-5 inches long on fly cutter and I can only hold 1-1.5 inches in collet.

Thank you for all the advice already. I will try to get more pictures next week and will try to update then.
 








 
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