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HAAS shrink fit for $5k any good?

I appreciate this thread because I've not taken the plunge but, want to. The suggestion to use a torch is interesting. I didn't think a torch would heat the holder fast enough to get the cutter out.

That leads to the next question: is there any reason one of these wouldn't work with a regular cat 40 holder?

The Map Pro torch (yellow canister) gets it hot enough, Oxygen (blue) won’t do it.

Them handheld induction units will work too, I know a few guys that use them.
 
I might be wrong, but from my understanding shrink fit only worth itself in 4+ axis applications, as they tend to ring and resonate due to little mass near tool. at least that was what I was told by the guy running tool and die shop.
This mostly has to do with the slender nose of the traditional shrink holder.

Some companies make much fatter holders which are more rigid and offer more grip, but they're not as common.
 
yes induction heaters work, that's all the machines are, you just have to remember to allow the holder too cool fully before reheating, or on the slimmer ones they can bend, been there done that.
But yes we used to use that same type of automotive induction heater before we bought our machine .

I appreciate this thread because I've not taken the plunge but, want to. The suggestion to use a torch is interesting. I didn't think a torch would heat the holder fast enough to get the cutter out.

That leads to the next question: is there any reason one of these wouldn't work with a regular cat 40 holder?

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Thanks to everyone here for contributing to the convo. I placed the order, and am confident it'll be a good fit in my shop.
 
Those shrink machines from Mari and Haas are made by a company in Taiwan, so is the Techniks one but by a different company. Our shop and all the shops around us in Taiwan use the same one Haas and Mari sells. Nothing fancy, but it does the job just fine.
 
When we machined warm forge dies for steering racks we only used BIG hydraulic holders. Shrink fit runout exceeded our requirement of .002 TIR.

I have seen a shrink fit pull out when trochoidal milling full depth with a 12mm 6 flute cutter in P20.

Personally I wouldn't use a torch on a heat shrink holder, especially if I'm running it at really high rpm's.
 
One thing I noticed when using shrink, is that the tool life was much more consistent (probably due to the concentricity). That's when I started playing with tool life management; on the 1/2" inchers I set the spindle load limit at I think 55%, which it would hit after about five hours in the cut. Never broke one after that.

I'd like to use shrink fit for my CM-1's, but there aren't any ISO-20 shrink fits on the market. I had some custom ones quoted at about $350 each. I'll get a bunch when my wife wins the lottery.

There are some shrink fit to ER adapters, but those are a bit pricey too. Nice, narrow tips though.
We have some ISO20 shrink holders in production. 50 and 80mm gage lengths. Probably 1/8,3/16,1/4 and 3/8 bores.
 
Yes our SF-Mach-9000 is the same machine as HAAS. It is a great entry level shrink machine and been very reliable for us. Nice and powerful for the smaller diameters and the air cooling helps changeover time. We are having a promotion on ours until end of October.
 
I score both the Shrink Fit machine and the HST 400 on sale. I love them both. Super easy to use and as long as you keep the tool holders clean you should expect the tools to be reliably concentric. No more tapping the tool in.
 
When we machined warm forge dies for steering racks we only used BIG hydraulic holders. Shrink fit runout exceeded our requirement of .002 TIR.

I have seen a shrink fit pull out when trochoidal milling full depth with a 12mm 6 flute cutter in P20.

Personally I wouldn't use a torch on a heat shrink holder, especially if I'm running it at really high rpm's.
If you had shrink fits with .002" runout, either they were abused, possibly by dramatic overheating, or they were crap holders to begin with. Or I've heard of some cheap cutters having .002" runout between the shank and flutes. Pullout can also be a symptom of a holder which has been overheated.
 
If you had shrink fits with .002" runout, either they were abused, possibly by dramatic overheating, or they were crap holders to begin with. Or I've heard of some cheap cutters having .002" runout between the shank and flutes. Pullout can also be a symptom of a holder which has been overheated.
Yup, In the beginning I tried using a hand held induction heater on some Haimer extra slim holders, and wasn't letting them cool all the way down before reheating, and didn't have any of the extra slim heating and cooling sleeves, and it actually bent the holders.
 
I appreciate this thread because I've not taken the plunge but, want to. The suggestion to use a torch is interesting. I didn't think a torch would heat the holder fast enough to get the cutter out.

That leads to the next question: is there any reason one of these wouldn't work with a regular cat 40 holder?

we have those amazon things. they suck, at least for me. they work, slow, my hands get cramps holding it in place.
boss ordered the haas deal yesterday. it's got to be an improvement
 
I appreciate this thread because I've not taken the plunge but, want to. The suggestion to use a torch is interesting. I didn't think a torch would heat the holder fast enough to get the cutter out.

That leads to the next question: is there any reason one of these wouldn't work with a regular cat 40 holder?

With carbide cutters, it's not a race; the materials have different rates of thermal expansion. I was able to use a MAPP gas torch in one hand, continually turning the holder in the other (you don't want to just heat one side), for a count of thirty, and it would be loose. Make sure you have a heat-resistant place to set it down after, 'cause the heat will wick into the taper soon after that.
 
If you had shrink fits with .002" runout, either they were abused, possibly by dramatic overheating, or they were crap holders to begin with. Or I've heard of some cheap cutters having .002" runout between the shank and flutes. Pullout can also be a symptom of a holder which has been overheated.
mm's not inches.
 
I might be wrong, but from my understanding shrink fit only worth itself in 4+ axis applications, as they tend to ring and resonate due to little mass near tool. at least that was what I was told by the guy running tool and die shop.
not true at all.
 
I have a Technics Quencher and when I break a tool too low to grab, I just fill the holder up with water, tighten up the pull stud, cover with a damp folded towel, get a face shield, and heat to the max using a long plastic rod to hold the induction button in. BAM! Always gets the stub out and fun to boot.
someone likes to live dangerously... lol
 
Some people will have negative things to say about using a torch, but I used a propane torch for the smaller shrink holders, 6mm or less. Never had any issues.

I have slimline shrink holders 20 years old that are still perfect. And I've thrown away cheap no name ones after 5 years.

They all have a purpose
 
Yep. I had one of those Amazon induction heaters. They take about 40 seconds to heat the tool. I returned it and bought the 1.5kw version, which heats in about 30secs (in the UK you can buy them with brand names on for quite a lot of money or direct from AliExpress for less money than the Amazon one... About $150)

I've been very impressed with shrink holders for my Brother BT30 machine. They are about the same cost as a collet holder. Much better runout. Probably less good for finishing than a hydraulic but 1/3 the cost

It's definitely not as convenient to change tools with the cheapo induction heaters, so I simply use them for tools that change infrequently. Core stuff if you like. I think changing 1-2 per day is ok. More than that and you want a better solution. Mainly it's cooling which is inconvenient (I have a desk fan and it takes a good 5 minutes to cool)

However it's a great way into the game! Recommended if you don't own any shrink holders and want a cheap way to evaluate them. For the price of a single hydraulic you can get a shrink holder plus cheapo machine. What's not to like!

I documented some of my experience here


I've just filmed it heating with the Flir thermal camera as well! Hope to post it in the next few days!
 








 
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