jim rozen
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2004
- Location
- peekskill, NY
Why not just buy the steel ball in the correct hard state? I suspect he does not want the 'shade tree mechanic' version of heat-treat.
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Thx Denis,Dan,
This application involves pretty intense shock (4000 times a minute---half the crank RPM) and wear. So, the ideal tool steel may not be O-1. I do not have enough tool steel knowledge to state what woud be the ideal choice. But I do know S7 has excellent shock strength. It sounds like fracture failure would be a very undesireable outcome for the part you are making. Hopefully someone here will know what the best alloy choice might be.
"It features excellent impact and shock resistance and decent resistance to softening at high temperatures. S7 is comparatively less resistant to wear but is very tough. It resists distortion during heat treatment well."
Pics of the worn part?
Denis
Replacing the ball/stud is a 5 min job so super easy. The lash cap that the ball rides on is easy too but more costly to produceIs it better if the ball wears or make it harder the the part it rubs wears instead. Which is easier to replace when worn?
Bill D
You are correct in that a full ball is not actually required since the contact arc is way less than a sphere. I would probably grind a tool to just do a 5 mm radius hemisphere on the end and then use a tool on the back side of the hemi to gently blend to the 5mm threaded sectionAs others above suggest, tell us all the details.
Can you put a different radius on the contact area? A mushroom head may give better contact area and less PSI.
Seems in this case the easiest would be to make the threaded end, then clamp on that, then turn the contact end.
Ed.
That’s great info…thxOnly suggestion I would have is if you are going to use W1. I would harden it in oil. That small a part will harden properly in oil and is far less likely to crack in oil.
I used to make an industrial chisel/scraper out of W1 they tapered from 1/2" to 3/8. I would have a couple out of 50 crack in ht. So I sent a batch out to a ht shop as I knew their temperature control was better than mine. About 10 came back cracked. An experienced friend suggested an oil quench. After hardening and tempering I took one and using carbide machined to the center of the chisel to ensure through hardening. It was just as hard in the centre in the high 50s rc.
Based on recommendation from patternmaker last Sunday to use oil for this small of a part that is what I usedIf it's W1 shouldn't that be quenched in water?
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