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Harig 612 Spindle Sound

Dangerous?
Broken wheels normally are contained by the wheel guard although this light weight machine will jump up and down on it's base when it happens.
Dad was running one with no wheel guard. Wheel blew up and he had his arm up on the downfeed. Fractured his arm.
Thrown parts usually go left of you.
Every bad and recordable that I have had come from getting your fingers too close to a running wheel.
Most often it is wiping off the chuck with the wheel running..... Bad idea
Bites the back of your hand/finger and you go "Hey, I can see the things inside my hand as I move it".
Normally a clean slice even if down to bone and not much blood or pain. This just before you go into shock and some do pass out.
When you go to the ER and they take a scrub-brush to clean it... that hurts.

All machine tools are dangerous. Manual ones much more than enclosed cncs.
Grandpa did not have a ring finger. A gear cutting machine took it in a auto plant. A friend lost his entire hand to a transfer bar in the same complex and I have seen worse.
All of these things cut metal and simply do not care about human flesh.
Anyone with machines should have a decent first aid kit nearby.
Bob
 
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Coming to touch the part and having a high unexpected place can be dangerous, So I like to wheel/feel the part with a parked wheel on a chancy set-up and be careful on all others..with a down feed and travel to the grind-side,, not the climb-side of the part. The grind side on most grinders the table long traveling to the right..and then touching the part.
Block-in to a tall part with the block-in touching that part high up, a low block-in is just a tip-over block. If the block-in misses touching the part then a shim might be added high up on the part.
 
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For every setup, make a conscious effort to think about every possible thing that can go wrong. Then figure out how you're going to make the possible impossible. Never put flesh between a rock and a hard place. I raise the wheel and still wipe half the chuck with the table right, then left, so I never get too close to the wheel and never underneath it.
 
One should also be careful when side wheeling with back of the wheel on this machine not to overcome this preload.

Bob

I did not know this. Thinking back, never noticed a problem spin grinding punches to a shoulder, they'd spark out. Side wheeling shoulders on blocks, no matter how many passes I'd make with the table it would keep cutting (rubbing, really). I figured probably the work getting hot and expanding, but letting it cool never made any difference.

Image in my head is 'seeing' the face in question, so the back of the wheel.

Thank you. I'll keep this in mind, and check what type of bearings are in a particular grinder I might be purchasing.
 
On a grinder, if your brain is telling you "I can squeeze in/through there" while the wheel is running; don't. These guys are dead on. Move the table or wheel out of the way first or stop the wheel. Getting munched by a grinder is not the same as getting a slice from a knife or cutter. Those are severs, and everything is generally still there to grow back together. A grinder will remove anything it encounters and grind it into itty bits in the process. That takes a long time for your body to fill back in.
 
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Yea! My shop made spanner wrench worked. The nut was not really that tight, and the adapter came right off without even using the puller. Spindle taper looks perfect.
Now on to repairing that longitudinal table issue. As long as I'm messing with it, I think I might as well contact JDS tech support (or somebody) and check what might be involved in switching over from rack/pinion to a cable drive.
 
My cousin ran his hand under a wheel. He said it left a 1/4" wide 'notch' (not horribly deep), and he looked at it and thought 'that's kinda cool, and it doesn't hurt at all' ... until the blood started seeping in ...

Yeah that's the other thing. If you get a deep one it is a royal bear to stop the bleeding. I notched myself once pretty good, I think I held my damn hand over my head for a half an hour after I scrubbed it, trying to get it to stop bleeding.
 
The old hack method to stop bleeding is to wrap the wound in brown paper that comes from a food-grade paper bag, Use the never touched inside of the bag against the wound so as not to have any bacteria /grubs on it. The glue in the brown paper bag is an OK blood dryer.
Out in the bush good to use fire ashes and water to wash rags and hang them in the sun to dry, boiling the rags after washing can be an added good precaution.
Keeping wounds dry and covered with a breathable wrap for 3 days can be good.
 
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Holy crap, maybe I picked the wrong hobby. :oops: At this age, healing is not something I do very well or quickly. Just have to double down on the safety stuff, I reckon.
 
It's not a common thing, just keep your hands away from the wheel. Those of us who learned the hard way just try to pass on the lesson. And there's a powder that is excellent for stopping bleeding, called styptic powder. There are a few brand names of the same stuff. Also super glue can work in a pinch. What I wouldn't bother with is that Liquid Skin stuff. Never worked well for me. Either way, step 1 is scrub the shit out of the wound first. With soap. Being a pussy at step 1 is how you get a nasty infection.
 
I will second keeping your F'ing hand away from the wheel. Treat it like a weapon, always presume it's loaded (running). It "seductive" because it looks so different than a edged cutter, but it'll carve you up without a second's thought.
 
Vitamin K will stop the bleeding pretty quick. You can get it at most drug stores. Good to keep around if you are accident prone or are using blood thinners.
 
Letting a wound bleed for a bit can/will help flush out whatever contaminants are embedded from whatever passed through your flesh. Trapped contaminants, especially from grinding, seem to produce nastier infections than a clean slice. After bleed a bit I'll use toilet paper to help create a clot if nothing else is available, same as a shaving cut.

To the OP- Grinders are some of the most dangerous machines in the shop. When something bad happens it's instantaneous and there's no time to move or even react. Wheels can literally explode, sending chunks of stone at terrific speed into/through anything within 20 feet or more. Do please review your safety habits around them.
 
JWWeathers,
I have purchased a very used Harig Super 612 that was actually still in service at a shop when I bought it. I just recently wired it up to power using a VFD. It seems to run okay but has some noise to it. Not as bad as yours was at first, but certainly worse than after you did the rebuild. I am very interested in what you did, in case something like it is in my future.
You mentioned the bearings, as you found them, to be Barden 205Hs, rather than 205HDLs.
On your rebuild, did you put in 205HDLs? Was the price as killer as everybody seems to indicate?
How did you source a spindle grease?
Did you find getting the preload correct particularly difficult?
Thanks in advance for your posting. It gives me hope because like you mentioned, I simply can't justify the cost of a professional spindle rebuild.
I am sorry that I somehow missed your question, but I have been offline for a bit. That said, I see that Bob offered his help which is much better than anything I could offer.

To answer your questions, I found that the bearings we marked 205H's, like you mentioned, but I believe the bearings intended to be matched were in fact a matched pair just not obviously marked as such. The price will depend on whether or not you can find them on something like ebay or have to buy them new, and the bearing grease I used is Mobilgrease 28, right or wrong. Like Bob said, there is no controlling the preload since it is created by the wavy washers when the spindle is reassembled.

Bottom line, the spindle is fairly easy to disassemble and reassemble. You can do it easily with a little attention to detail. Credit to those that designed this machine.

Thanks!
Jeff
 
That’s a great idea, Bob! I’ll give it a shot and report back. Regarding the scoring marks from my previous attempt, any cause for concern? File off the the burrs and move on?

Thanks!
Jeff
Jeff
read your Harig 612 spindle bearing replacement project , I'm still lost on my attempt, I have the spindle housing in front of me (less motor) spanner nut still on shaft that is still in housing. Do I remove by pressing shaft out from rear to front or front to rear
 
The rule/thought about side wheel grinding is because a wheel is super strong on the OD and way less strong on the side. Some grinding advice suggest never grind on the side, but we all do that. With being careful. Dishing the wheel can help the wheel to cut.
Often the first time an apprentice tries to side wheel it is a big surprise.

Clunkey spindle that still grinds good could be the drive, could be the motor bearing, could be the spindle bearing, coud be something not tight.
eor something not tight one might rest the wheel guard on a block.
 
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Jeff
read your Harig 612 spindle bearing replacement project , I'm still lost on my attempt, I have the spindle housing in front of me (less motor) spanner nut still on shaft that is still in housing. Do I remove by pressing shaft out from rear to front or front to rear
Shaft comes out of the front of the spindle sleeve.
 








 
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