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Dec 6, 2023
Accurpress has 8 bolts evenly spaced down the die stuck firmly in place. Tried wd, hammer, snipe, air impact and not one minuscule budge fr any of them. Work is piling up and I need to switch out my dies!!


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Accurpress has 8 bolts evenly spaced down the die stuck firmly in place. Tried wd, hammer, snipe, air impact and not one minuscule budge fr any of them. Work is piling up and I need to switch out my dies!!
Left hand?
Sounds like you need some better tools.

My old Mac 1/2" air gun will twist off gr8 bolts and studs under 1/2". My 1" IR gun will snap semi wheel studs right off if the nut is froze.
I've got to agree with Gordon Heaton and Seesecurity, your photo shows clear signs of a bit driver that doesn't fit all the way into the screw's socket. You want a bit that fills the socket all the way, neither too big nor too small.

Too small a bit will round out the socket. If that happens, you'll need to drill the screw head off. NOT drill the screw out, just drill the head off.

Your photo shows that the screw recess has a conical bottom that will work to guide your drills. I generally start drilling with a drill half the diameter of the screw shank, then follow with a drill slightly larger than the screw shank.

With the screw heads out of the way, the die (in this case) will come off, leaving a short section of the screw shank protruding from whatever it is screwed into.

Give the protruding shank a couple of hammer smacks, add a bit of penetrating oil if you like, and use a pair of Vise-Grip-type locking pliers to turn out the screw shank.

Bonus tip: Drill with left-hand twist drills if you have (or can get) them if the stuck screw has a right-hand thread; use right-hand drills for left-hand threads.
Soak it with Kroil and put a wrench with the proper bit and with a heavy weight on the end of the handle to put constant tension on it overnight. A pipe or tube for extra length on the wrench would be good. Let the Kroil and constant tension do their thing: don't touch it again until tomorrow.
WTF is "snipe?" Anyway, get an air hammer with a punch small enough to fit inside the hex socket and give 'er a little rat-a-tat at the base of the socket, then try again with a good hex wrench, properly seated all the way. Use a pipe on the end if you don't have a really good impact. If that doesn't do it, try an O/A torch, heat and cool the head good and hot once, then try it again. If that doesn't do it, you may need to drill it.

One problem is you've got shit import hardware in there. Those screws are practically made of butter. First thing I do if I get something with those shitty fasteners is swap them out for Holo-Krome or something equivalent.
A snipe is an extension or cheater on the wrench. And Holo-Krome is now owned by Fastenal, so I'm not sure how long their quality will continue to be top notch.
Here is the tool you need:
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We often put a good hex bit on a long extension and did a 2 man open, one to hold the extension and no 2 on the biggest tap wrench ( like a greenwood) you can find
Think 3’ 6” long, + anti slip diamond paste in the hole
I found gedore 1/2” and 3/4” drive hex bits good
Someone may have.put locktite green or red on the bolts too. Heat them up in stages and try turning like Gbent said. One wrench with pipe over Allen wrench or what we call a cheater bar. Cheater pipe 3 foot long.
Large piece of pipe sleeved with DOM tubing just large enough for your allen wrench. Keep it hidden from the gorillas that install the dies. You'll need this tool from time to time.

Those are not intended to be tightened much when installing the dies...just enough to keep the die in place.

This is a common occurrence as your bolts wear to a fine polish. Anti-seize is your friend here.
If you have stainless bolts, your screwed. Sorry

If you already used a air impact, try heat and vibrations.

I add a little bit of mineral oil to the bolts on my Cincinnati once a month +/- to keep them from binding.

Worse case is gpong to be drilling them out.