Are you sure this will work with this particular mill? The previous owner said it is a two hour job that requires two people.Removing a table is easy enough as long as you’ve got something really sturdy to slide the table on to. Disconnect any coolant drain pipes. Remove the lead screw brackets at either end. Wind out the leadscrew, being careful to support it. Leadscrews aren’t as strong as they look. Your eye only sees the outside diameter, it’s the diameter at the bottom of the screw that counts. Back off the taper gibs after measuring or marking their location for future reference. Remove any DRO attachments. Carefully slide the table onto whatever you have that will safely take the table‘s weight.
Re-fitting the table is easy enough, more or less that process in reverse with added use of the imperial oil can.
I’ve never worked on a “ Vernier “ mill, there aren’t many of them out in the field, they were quite expensive as I recall. However I’ve removed dozens of milling machine tables and 99% of them work the same way. Yours might be slightly different but I doubt it.Are you sure this will work with this particular mill? The previous owner said it is a two hour job that requires two people.
Thank youI’ve never worked on a “ Vernier “ mill, there aren’t many of them out in the field, they were quite expensive as I recall. However I’ve removed dozens of milling machine tables and 99% of them work the same way. Yours might be slightly different but I doubt it.
Maybe the previous owner had never removed a table before. I did this sort of work professionally. If I started on the job on my own at 8-00 am I’d be disappointed if I hadn’t got it off and out of the way by dinner time. On some simpler machines I’d say 10-30am.
Unfortunately that could not be done as the machine had to be pushed up a narrow ramp.Every once in a while someone here wants to move a Bridgeport mill thru a regular doorway and someone replys something about removing the table. Well, I finally sold a Bridgeport that I had moved into my office, and today moved it back out and took the photos below. The doorway is 35 inches...www.practicalmachinist.com
It seems to be the anti backlash nut, we tried adjusting it quite a bit, but no luck.What’s preventing you from re-assembling the machine ?
Yes, I tried it blind, it is a pain to remove the leadscrew from the table because it is connected to a shaft through a gearbox at the end of the table.Are you trying to fit the leadscrew into the backlash eliminster/ travel nut with the table in place ? IE doing it blind. Try fitting the screw into the eliminator/travel nut first. It came out so it has to go back in. It can be a bit fiddly.
My machine has a standard table.Mm, that’s an unusual design in that the leadscrew is tensioned up on the left hand side. Normally the leadscrew is drawn through and tensioned on the right hand side at the far end of the leadscrew. It’s still do-able though. You can still fit the leadscrew through the backlash eliminator and the travel nut then build the left hand end of the leadscrew ( bearings and lock nuts etc ) up in the extended bracket on the left. Then slide the table on from the right hand side to join up with the left hand bracket. Fit the little right hand bracket last.
By the way those are drawings for 1) a universal table. 2) a standard table. Which one have you got ?
I was talking about buying a Renault Clio with my mechanic a while ago. He said “ But Tyrone, they’re French ! “ I knew exactly what he meant by that. If the French can find a way of doing something that’s different to everybody else they’ll do exactly that.
Perhaps this worksIt seems to be the anti backlash nut, we tried adjusting it quite a bit, but no luck.
The leadscrew will not engage the fixed nut, except when the moving nut is removed.
We are considering just putting it on with the moving nut removed, but that is not ideal.