What's new
What's new

How to set up Countershaft on early Workshop 9"

jforb

Plastic
Joined
Jul 1, 2023
I'm trying to figure out how to set up the countershaft on 59482. It came with a huge 1 HP motor, mounted on a home made pivoting stand that also supported the original SB countershaft frame. Looking at original SB pictures of the Model 5 lathe, it appears the design is to have the countershaft frame mounted to the bench (or wall), and not move it for changing the belt from one pulley to another. Here is the mount I have, with no motor in place. I have a 1/4 HP motor ordered, on the way. It appears the wood wedge was used to try to get more stick on the belt, but the primary tensioning was the weight of the motor pulling the CS away from the headstock.

cs mount 01.jpg
cs mount 02.jpg

I found an older thread here that shows another design for a pivot to mount the CS frame to a bench, again with the motor behind the CS.

other cs mount1.jpg

The SB literature shows the CS mounted to the bench itself, and tension set by the adjustment of the CS frame using it's slotted mounting holes.

countershaft mounting 1.jpg

I think I might want to set it up this way. I don't think my bench is wide enough, without moving the lathe forward on the bench, but I could make an extension to the rear of the bench to support the countershaft frame.

So my question...what do you'all think? What would you do if you wanted to get an old lathe set up to work? I'm not concerned with having it be the most modern, efficient design. I'd like it to work as designed, back in the 30s.
 
I believe theres a U&S Army manual for this lathe on Steve Well's website & theres a drawing in that man with dimensions for spacing the countershaft from the lathe . It's not really set in concrete but its a good guideline
animal
 
Thanks, I've seen the drawing in that manual, it pertains to the pivoting type countershaft frame with the built in motor mount. Like the one I have on my later Model 9A.
 
From the vintage photo it seeems the only tensioning feature for the leather belt would be the slotted mounting holes for the countershaft. I suspect SP realized this was a bit inadequate and went on to use the pivoting vesion seen in later 9" lathes. You could probably get away with this slotted screw approach if you used a non-stretching belt such as an automotive serpentine belt, which could be cut to fit and spliced in place.

Another approach,if you have the room, would be to mount the countershaft on the overhead - advantage being your bench does not have to grow so deep. Rear drive countershatft lathes *always* suffer from the 'deep bench' issue.

(also keep your eyes out for a more modern pivoting countershaft that somebody might be selling)
 
Thanks, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with using the older non-pivoting countershaft. Probably not? or they're not here, at least.

It looks to me like it should work using the original design. I did an experiment with my newer lathe, I was able to move the belt to change speed without moving the pivot. I doubt even a leather belt would stretch often enough that it would need adjustment often.

The new motor should be here tomorrow, I'll give it a try and let you know what happens.
 
I am having somewhat of a similar dilemma with my 9 Junior I recently acquired. However, my my "self contained motor drive unit" does have the motor mounted to the assembly. I am considering some kind of a track or pivot system for it. First I need a good solid bench for the lathe and motor assembly.
 

Attachments

  • 100_1152 (800x600).jpg
    100_1152 (800x600).jpg
    265.8 KB · Views: 19
Dan is the pulley stand part of the base casting on your countershaft ?
animal
Yes all one piece. Here is a thread I started on my Junior lathe with more photos. I will post there with my efforts in this regard.
 
Anyways...back to my old lathe. I went ahead and set it up sort of as designed. I'll probably change to a smaller motor pulley, it runs pretty fast, I could widen the pulley and make the effective pitch smaller, but it's also not very well made, and has some eccentricity.

But the lathe is running again, and judging by the state of things when I got it, that's been a few decades since it last ran.

new belts 2.jpg
 
Thanks, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with using the older non-pivoting countershaft. Probably not? or they're not here, at least.

It looks to me like it should work using the original design. I did an experiment with my newer lathe, I was able to move the belt to change speed without moving the pivot. I doubt even a leather belt would stretch often enough that it would need adjustment often.

The new motor should be here tomorrow, I'll give it a try and let you know what happens.
 
It will work. I have a later machine with the later type of drive unit and a leather belt. I adjusted it once and have been using it for years now without touching it. It is easier to change speeds, I'm sure, and I always slack the belt when I'm not using the machine.
 








 
Back
Top