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I need advice to rebuild part of this air compressor please

Kansasdude

Plastic
Joined
Apr 28, 2024
Location
Mc,outh,KS
So I have this old compressor that I bought a couple years ago. Haven't really needed one much as I just have a small one for tires but I decided to buy a plasma cutter. The tank says Manchester but I don't know if they built the whole thing or just the tank. It appears to be a well built unit so I want to keep it. I plugged it in last night and it works great but after a couple minutes I luckily realized it doesn't have an air pressure switch and the motor is just wired direct. I assume it went bad and someone just did away with it. It does have a pressure valve but I was in no mood to test it lol.

Perhaps I jumped the gun and ordered a swtich manifold combo by secbolt 90-120 psi but it was only $30.

Here are pics. I'm wondering if anyone has ideas how I should hook this up with either the secbolt with manifold that has 2 guauges and 2 ourlets on it or if I should get something else. It has an outlet on the end that is the current supply. It has the main input on top. Then there is 2 outlets on the front side. One has a pressure relief valve and the other has a dial gauge in it. Thank You!
 

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After I looked at these pics again Im thinking remove the pressure valve on the side of the tank and put the new switch/manifold there since there is a small, I believe to be a return line, already there and the new manifold has a pressure valve built in. Then cap the outlet on the end.

I am not sure i'll see if any of you have better ideas. I've never worked on one but I have a couple old ones around here that need work and the tanks look good so I thought now would be a good time to learn.
 
Be careful with the switch rating. Looks to be a pretty big motor. Switch may not be rated for it. How many hp is the motor?
 
I just rebuilt my devilbliis 80 gal power head. bought it for $50 - was slow! after pulling head the smaller piston had knocked for so long the piston pin hole was worn 1/4" oblong! I had a friend tig the holes and recut them as best i could on the lathe. Same with the small end - found a matching bushing and tig welded it and machined it back down (the old sb 9 always drags 2 thou on the reverse cut so it ended up a lil loose but epoxied it in! - i wasnt paying enough attention).

Only reason i went thru all this is because the ONLY matching parts I could find were from europe and shipping alone was $120! Most US models use very cheap parts i would have bought if it fitted!

I would inspect the head first otherwise option 2 is a harbor freight model :/
 
I just rebuilt my devilbliis 80 gal power head. bought it for $50 - was slow! after pulling head the smaller piston had knocked for so long the piston pin hole was worn 1/4" oblong! I had a friend tig the holes and recut them as best i could on the lathe. Same with the small end - found a matching bushing and tig welded it and machined it back down (the old sb 9 always drags 2 thou on the reverse cut so it ended up a lil loose but epoxied it in! - i wasnt paying enough attention).

Only reason i went thru all this is because the ONLY matching parts I could find were from europe and shipping alone was $120! Most US models use very cheap parts i would have bought if it fitted!

I would inspect the head first otherwise option 2 is a harbor freight model :/
It works and pumps the tank up fast and doesn't make any weird noise so i'm just going to use it. I am going to clean the filters and change the oil thoh.
 
Be careful with the switch rating. Looks to be a pretty big motor. Switch may not be rated for it. How many hp is the motor?
Hi. It is 1.5hp. The switch I ordered is 20 amps so it should be ok. The compressor will be under a bench so i'm not real concerned with a manifold hanging off the side. I haven't been able to find any like it on the net yet. It is super heavy built which is why I want to fix it. It is 120v. I also have a speedaire 220v that runs good but it also has a bad switch lol. I want to fix this one first as I will have to put in another 220v outlet for the speedaire
 
It is an old Jacuzzi compressor, nothing to do with hot tubs, Jacuzzi was the brand name. IIRC those were setup to run continuously, when tank was full it would dump pressure. The valving to dump pressure may need work/oil/might not work at all anymore. Cleanup the crankcase and you will see Jacuzzi name, maybe a model#.
 
It is an old Jacuzzi compressor, nothing to do with hot tubs,
I did not know they made compressors. My uncle george knew they built an airplane before ww1 and went into business making propellers. The plane was kept in Burr's barn. The pumps came later when they invented the jet pump. Not sure if that was before, during, or after one brother made a hot water massage pump bath for his arthritis.
Bill D
 
I did not know they made compressors. My uncle george knew they built an airplane before ww1 and went into business making propellers. The plane was kept in Burr's barn. The pumps came later when they invented the jet pump. Not sure if that was before, during, or after one brother made a hot water massage pump bath for his arthritis.
Bill D
I'm not sure what all they made, I know they also made jet drives for boats, but somehow their name only stuck to hot tubs????

Jacuzzi airplane https://www.phcppros.com/articles/3815-did-you-know-jacuzzi-started-out-making-airplanes

More Jacuzzi history https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/a-hot-take-on-the-steamy-history-of-the-jacuzzi
 
Interesting thanks for the info!

Ok........so I want to redesign my Jacuzzi to have an air switch because I don't need it running continuously.

So what is the small 1/4" line that runs from the pressure valve on the side to the pump head? Is that a return line that I could use on a manifold?

I got this at an estate sale last summer for $40. They also had an atlas lathe for $25 but I got beat out of that one and this compressor was sitting in the corner so I grabbed it.
 
Hi. It is 1.5hp. The switch I ordered is 20 amps so it should be ok. The compressor will be under a bench so i'm not real concerned with a manifold hanging off the side. I haven't been able to find any like it on the net yet. It is super heavy built which is why I want to fix it. It is 120v. I also have a speedaire 220v that runs good but it also has a bad switch lol. I want to fix this one first as I will have to put in another 220v outlet for the speedaire
You should be ok. But the switches are rated in hp because of inductive kick. Amp rating could be resistive (think heater or light bulbs) and be much lower rated with a motor.
 
Interesting thanks for the info!

Ok........so I want to redesign my Jacuzzi to have an air switch because I don't need it running continuously.

So what is the small 1/4" line that runs from the pressure valve on the side to the pump head? Is that a return line that I could use on a manifold?
That is all part of the unloader system, when pressure in tank gets high enough the valve on side of tank opens and lets air flow thru tubing up to the brass unloader valves on the cylinder heads. When activated, the unloader valves press on the intake side of the reed valves so that it will no longer build pressure in the tank. You may want to reconfigure the unloader valves so they activate on startup for when it cycles on using a pressure switch, you may also want to open the unloader valves and make sure they move freely, I cannot remember if there is an O-ring in those, seem to think there is. It's only been about 20 years since I worked on one, details are fuzzy..
 
What's the RPM on the motor tag ? I seem to recall that most compressor like a 1725 RPM motor , if ya have a 3450 that could be why it's filling so fast .
animal
 
So could I just leave everything like it is and put the new switch that has a manifold with 2 supply's on the end of the tank where the supply is now? All I want to do is have it shut off on it's own.
 
So could I just leave everything like it is and put the new switch that has a manifold with 2 supply's on the end of the tank where the supply is now? All I want to do is have it shut off on it's own.
You don't care that it needs to restart when pressure in tank gets low? Without the unloader valves engaging it may not be able to restart which can cause pesky little problems like tripping breakers or releasing magic smoke from the motor. A simple solution might be a check valve between compressor and tank, which may or may not allow motor to restart.
 
You can use the compressor unloader/air governor off a truck ,if your unit has decompressors in the head ........check valves in delivery pipes can be problematic due to running near red hot ,and also restricting flow from the compressor........There is /was a unit fitted to Leyland trucks in the 70s that simply switched the compressor delivery to open air,at the same time as sealing the tank pipe .......no unloaders needed in the compressor head ......id think the maker was Clayton-Dewandre
 
i used to set up 25cfm Servex compressors to run continuously at 150psi for commercial bead blasting........no way they would start at 150 with a 5hp motor ............everything would get hot and smoke oil for sure.
 
You don't care that it needs to restart when pressure in tank gets low? Without the unloader valves engaging it may not be able to restart which can cause pesky little problems like tripping breakers or releasing magic smoke from the motor. A simple solution might be a check valve between compressor and tank, which may or may not allow motor to restart.
No, I want to leave the unloader line where it's at now. The only thing I would do is add the pressure switch to the end of the tank that is now the supply as the pressure switch is on a manifold that also has a supply.

I am missing something here? The pressure in the tank would shut the switch off which would be wired to the motor. Then turn back on when the pressure is low. I'm not changing any unloader stuff. I think some of the advice is overly complicated there has to be an easy way to do this.
 








 
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