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I'm a Stud

Cleaned up the stud / thread interface and soaked the area with penetrating for 24 hours. Still wouldn't budge using the double nut method. Got it toasty with a propane torch and let it cool. Douched the stud with the entire contents of an inverted can of compressed air until it became super cold. Applied penetrating oil and allowed the surfaces to come up to room temp. Using the double nut method, the stud broke free and the are threads intact. I consider myself lucky. You guys gave me the best options should things have turned to sheet. I thank all who responded.
 

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btw, if these are the early ones, the 'heat it up' methods are less likely to work than usual. They were made of K01 which has a ton of silver in it and soaks up heat like a cat on top of the teevee.

Thing definitely looks like it was running fat tho .. and maybe bad guides and rings. The pistons aren't supposed to look like that.
And you are correct. The aluminum was alloyed with silver
 
Whats the theory behind the acid ....I can see this might react with aluminium and make more alum (maybe) ,but have never heard of anyone acidifying the solution before .......maybe I will learn something ,as I have an old motorbike case that needs broken off 1/4" screws removed .
I read somewhere to use acid so I tried it and it seemed to work faster.
 
I used to repair stripped threads in Harley cases for a Harley speed shop after their hamfisted attempt at drilling out and helicoiling didn't work. The fun part was ussually trying to find out where the center of the thread was located, so always asked for the mating part if I had to reverse engineer the location.

There's going to be a few owners in the future who when taking their motors apart are going to look at the fix and wonder 'what the hell happened there" Well it started with a Harley mechanic the size of a Gorilla and a Harbor freight drill press.

The large angle plate was never more then a few feet away from the BP
 
Cleaned up the stud / thread interface and soaked the area with penetrating for 24 hours. Still wouldn't budge using the double nut method. Got it toasty with a propane torch and let it cool. Douched the stud with the entire contents of an inverted can of compressed air until it became super cold. Applied penetrating oil and allowed the surfaces to come up to room temp. Using the double nut method, the stud broke free and the are threads intact. I consider myself lucky. You guys gave me the best options should things have turned to sheet. I thank all who responded.
 
I think you got lucky. When going back together remember that antiseize is your friend even if it does want to get all over you.
 








 
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