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insulated steel panels for shop roof and walls

We are designing a new building and plan on using Kingspan panels in a two color polychromatic arrangement. Here is the architects rendering . . . not quite how it will be in the latest version, but pretty close.

The panels are definitely not flammable according to the contractor and at 3 inches thick provide all the insulation needed.

IMG_0805.jpg

We are moving into a location that has CC&R's and an aesthetic panel like this is the least costly way to get approval. Shop exterior walls are about 40 feet tall at the highest end of the building and a concrete tilt wall would have needed to be 10 inches thick which was very expensive.
 
The insulation in the SIP panels is not a thermoplastic. Even in the event of a fire it won't get hot and flow out. Yeah a bad fire in a industrial unit will still total the building. Had a place go up on a local estate and it was a inferno but that was very much fuelled by the buildings contents not the panel insulation.

The tower cladding panels are not really insulating, just thick media bullshit not understanding the system approach the panels just form the faceing skin of, yeah the core is very much acting like the corrugated bit in corrugated cardboard, the skins are oftern little more than 15 thou thick oftern less and really only have tensile strength. its little more than a decorative skin, normally goes something like metal or wood frame work is built up on the face of the old building, insulation either heavy but rigid glass fibre - mineral wool bats or a foamed polyurethane is then attached onto the building on the face of the frame work is the decorative panelling. The general approach is common over here to improve the insulation performance of a lot of our older buildings. Its also often done for safety reasons were the original buildings skin is starting to suffer from weather damage. Fire breaks are very very much part of its std application to stop exactly what happened to that tower. Some one cut some serious corners on that job and to solely blame the material is kinda sad, but then thats what happens in a country were management and owners seam to never actually be held accountable.
 
I would think it might be cheaper to have someone come in and spray foam the corrugated panels, after all the tin is up.

Around here they get $.85/ board foot (1" thick) to do it.
 
The Panels we will be using are interlocked with gasketed flanges and are smooth steel on the outside and the inside.

This is the building that inspired our first inquiry into the panels.

PanelExample.jpg

On this building, the extra cost of the panels is roughly $600k over a corrugated panel and this is a combination of the extra support required behind the panel as well as the raw cost of the panels themselves. This is on a building of approximately 32,000 square foot pad with average wall height of 36 feet.

Our panels will have a gap between them - here is a representative photo of how they attach to the building.
PanelAttach.JPG
 
Who has experience with IMP in hot climates?

I will be putting up a new shop this spring in South West Florida. It will be 40x80x16 or 60x80x16 if the county will allow it. It will either be a red iron building wrapped in metal or a post frame building wrapped in metal. The main shop will not have HVAC. A `12 x 26 office will be AC'd.

For the Main shop I am looking at insulation techniques. Either vapor barrier and spray insulation or bookcase perlings and conventional batten insulation. Pros and Cons to both... With the main focus of keeping heat out of the building.

I work in the Middle East and have noticed alot of new buildings going up with Insulated metal panels.
S W Florida, no HVAC?????? Glad I won't be working in there.
 
I work mostly in the industrial food sector and most of my customers use IMP panels. The customers that have -4 to -10 degree freezer, and I'm talking 250,000 Sq foot rooms that have 4" walls all wish they went with 6". But they work very well. Easy up, easy to seal, easy to drill through, a mother f***** to replace a panel in the middle without just cutting a chunk out and putting in extra trim pieces.

The only thing that I see that most people don't realize until well after they are installed is, when you drill through them from the outside to install, say an exhaust fan. If you don't seal that properly, you could soak every panel 10 feet each way from heavy rains. So please make sure every possible spot is caulked with quality caulk and not anything you can buy from home depot.
 
We had several weeks this last summer with temps over 100 most afternoons and the shop stayed below 80 degrees with no A/C.

We programmed the wall louvers to open and exhaust fans to turn on at the lowest detected temperature at night and to exhaust hot air until the room temp has stopped dropping for 15 minutes, then shut everything down again. Winters are comfortable too with a reasonable heating bill.

We have ceiling fans that also move the air with 2hp 18ft fan diameter. All controlled with a Siemens PLC and VFDs along with a configuration touchscreen on the shop floor with temperature sensors at the ceiling, at floor level, and outside.


 








 
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