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K&T 2HL Rehab Project

MyLilMule

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
I acquired a K&T 2HL Plain earlier this year. Operationally, it was in fairly good state, just had a stuck power feed lever for the saddle. But it had a really terrible paint job. I've been spending some time disassembling, inspecting, cleaning and repainting it. I've published a couple videos on what I did. I am no machinery rebuilder. Just a hobbyist that likes to learn new things.

Here are the first few.




 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
It is pretty remarkable. Especially when you remember this was designed with paper, pencil and a slide rule.
Remarkable, yes, no doubt.. Computers were in the heads of humans..Amazing how they pumped those machines out during ww2 as well... I asked my mother once how the country managed to accomplish things such as this during wartime and she replied that it is amazing what one can do when their back is against the well...I used my 1943 2hl yesterday.. Tried to put pic of the job but all my pics are suddenly too big... Cheers from Louisiana.. Ramsay 1:)
 

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dana gear

Hot Rolled
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Location
Northern califorina, usa
What was truly amazing is when you see a line of K&T's 20 deep pumping out parts for the war effort. Men using nothing but the dials and hand measurement tools.
Repeatability in machined parts was simply remarkable for the day.
I still have 2 in the shop built during WWII. Build quality that is off the chart.
 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
What was truly amazing is when you see a line of K&T's 20 deep pumping out parts for the war effort. Men using nothing but the dials and hand measurement tools.
Repeatability in machined parts was simply remarkable for the day.
I still have 2 in the shop built during WWII. Build quality that is off the chart.
I have three K&T machines made during ww2.. As they say, there is true quality under that wartime finish.... Cheers from Louisiana.. Ramsay 1:)
 

MyLilMule

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
One of these days, hopefully within the next 18 months, I want to add a war era (1940s) Monarch 12C to the shop. I'll probably let the South Bend go at that point, even though it's a 1941/1942.
 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
You can build that pump and assemble to either pump all the time the motor is running or just when the spindle is running.. Those pumps really like cutting oil as coolant....Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1:)
 

MyLilMule

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
I've been trying to figure out just what oil. Mobilemet 426 is on the list, as is Ridgid Ni-Clear threading oil.
 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
I've been trying to figure out just what oil. Mobilemet 426 is on the list, as is Ridgid Ni-Clear threading oil.
Looks like 426 is for non ferrous metals.. I use 766 but I machine mostly steel.. I have used others though, I think Shell Garia is one but I think it is discontinued... Sulfurized cutting oils.. I have, in a pinch, used hypoid gear oil because it was so plentiful at work before I retired... Oil is better I think for the pump in K&T machines.. I have seen one completely seized from the residue of soluble... Cheers from Louisiana Ramsay 1:)
 

sfriedberg

Diamond
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Location
Oregon, USA
Mobilmet 426 works fine on steel, at least on the class of machine it's intended for. Probably not ideal for an Ingersoll-Rand planer mill with 50HP heads. They talk alot about how it isn't bad for red metals. That doesn't mean it's limited to red metals.
 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
I think you might be misreading that. It's recommended for non-ferrous under certain circumstances, but not limited to those materials. If you trust McMaster, they are pretty clear.

View attachment 373514
Yep, didn't read far enough, I suppose.. This is from Mobil... https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...ial/lubricants/products/products/mobilmet-426

Looks like it will work for both and will not stain copper likely because of the lack of sulfur...I have not used this but have used 766 but most of my work is with steel....Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1:)
 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
Might be what is wrong with my 1943 2hl universal as there is always a bit of oil in the bottom below the motor.. Been that way for many years now... Looks like your motor has grease fittings for grease lubrication.. Be sure to use purge plugs when greasing the motor to prevent grease from being forced into the windings and thus eventually ruining the motor....Belt tension needs to be just tight enough for power transmission, no more.. If thge pulleys are in good shape, that is enough... My motor is a Westinghouse sleeve bearing motor with oil rings and I had to make a new bushing for the take off end likely because someone overtightened the belts in the past.. Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1:)
 

MyLilMule

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
If you saw my video of the motor rebuild, that's exactly what happened prior to me getting it. The plugs were never removed. The windings were rotten with old, dry, hardened grease.

If you're able to reach into the motor bay and pull on that conduit/pipe, if it moves down at all, then it could be yours is broken as well. I spoke with Ron Grundy (former K&T employee you probably already have heard about) and he had never heard of one of those breaking before. Was shocked when I told him it was busted in two.
 

ramsay1

Titanium
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Location
port allen, louisiana usa
If you saw my video of the motor rebuild, that's exactly what happened prior to me getting it. The plugs were never removed. The windings were rotten with old, dry, hardened grease.

If you're able to reach into the motor bay and pull on that conduit/pipe, if it moves down at all, then it could be yours is broken as well. I spoke with Ron Grundy (former K&T employee you probably already have heard about) and he had never heard of one of those breaking before. Was shocked when I told him it was busted in two.
The majority of old motors which are greased with grease zerks are likely to be found with windings caked with old grease because people just pumped grease in over the years without removing purge plugs prior.... The proper procedure is: Remove purge plug, pump grease into the bearing until you see the grease from your gun emerge from the purge plug..Run motor one minute with purge plug removed..Stop motor.. Wipe excess grease from purge plug hole... Install purge plug.. DO NOT ADD MORE GREASE...Use this procedure once a year and your motors will thank you for it.. Many motors have been ruined by grease entering the windings causing temperature rise and failed insulation.. Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1:)
 








 
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