K&T Adjustable Universal Milling Attachment

[m-lud]

If you have a lathe, you could put the spindle in the lathe and cut or grind the race down to the spindle diameter and fit a new bearing.
I dont know how hard the spindle is.
Now I'm gone, I hate to see that head sold for parts.

 

[MyLilMule]

If you have a lathe, you could put the spindle in the lathe and cut or grind the race down to the spindle diameter and fit a new bearing.
I dont know how hard the spindle is.
Now I'm gone, I hate to see that head sold for parts.

That's an option I hadn't thought of, thank you for that.

Selling it for parts is the last option, if the others aren't feasible.

 

[MyLilMule]

I'll add that this head as other problems besides the bearings. Like two cracks in the bracket that holds it on the overarms. All of these issues pile up.

 

[ramsay1]

I'll add that this head as other problems besides the bearings. Like two cracks in the bracket that holds it on the overarms. All of these issues pile up.

I dunno where the cracks are exactly, but I have a drive bracket for a 2h 2ch that I bought on Ebay and it is cracked near the driven gear section.. I brazed it up and it runs fine... It cracked in a thin section by the gear.... Cheers from HOT Louisiana; Ramsay 1

 

[MyLilMule]

I dunno where the cracks are exactly, but I have a drive bracket for a 2h 2ch that I bought on Ebay and it is cracked near the driven gear section.. I brazed it up and it runs fine... It cracked in a thin section by the gear.... Cheers from HOT Louisiana; Ramsay 1

These cracks are on the swivel support bracket, inside the bore where the over arm supports go. Although they don't show up on camera as bad as they appear in person. Pretty thin material here. The plan, I hope, is to grind out the crack, TIG braze it, and refinish the bore. My concern is that this will affect rigidity. Coupled with a junk bearing and race, it's going to become accumulative. The more I can eliminate the better this accessory will be.

 

[ramsay1]

Nasty crack... Man someone must have been rough with that unit.. Never thought to check my 2h unit in that area.. Cheers from HOT Louisiana; Ramsay 1

 

[ramsay1]

Hello: As a side note, notice 28 and 38... These discs are cut very close to the pitch line of the gears to maintain proper backlash in the gear teeth.. Some think they are in place to make it more difficult to install and remove the unit.... They are there for a purpose... Cheers from HOT Louisiana; Ramsay 1

 

[MyLilMule]

If you have a lathe, you could put the spindle in the lathe and cut or grind the race down to the spindle diameter and fit a new bearing.

This is not an option. It's hard to tell from my photo, but there isn't enough material between what the spindle would be if it was straight and the internal 40 taper. With this design, it keeps the bearing and ultimately the head smaller.



I understand the the bearings were assembled by putting the rollers into a partially crimped cage. They would be slid over the spindle, and the a special tool was used in an arbor press to crimp the top of the cage.

 

[ramsay1]

This is not an option. It's hard to tell from my photo, but there isn't enough material between what the spindle would be if it was straight and the internal 40 taper. With this design, it keeps the bearing and ultimately the head smaller.

View attachment 400081

I understand the the bearings were assembled by putting the rollers into a partially crimped cage. They would be slid over the spindle, and the a special tool was used in an arbor press to crimp the top of the cage.

Some K&T spindles have the inner race ground onto them.. People call Ron Grundy who worked at K&T for 30 years and tell him they can't get the inner race off...Rollers run on the spindle on some of them....It is a good way to add rigidity and make the spindle more compact, but I suppose the entire spindle must be changed if it is pitted or fretted... Cheers from HOT Louisiana... Ramsay 1

 

[MyLilMule]

I haven't given up on this milling head. I have some ideas as to how to address some of the major issues. Besides the pitted bearing rollers and cup, the drive shaft is horribly worn, as are the splines in the drive shaft sleeve.

I have been working on making a new drive shaft. I am new to this machine yet, so I did a couple of experiments first, making a shorter version out of Delrin first and then a second one out of 1045. I made the second test piece recently and will be ready to make the real one in short order. I am in no rush to get this done. I have no desire to make it worse that how I found it.

I made new index keys for the dividing head and foot stock before moving on to the steel test piece.