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KO Lee Center Gauge

Awleaphart

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 16, 2019
Hello,
Picking up used KO lee tool cutter grinder with some work holding fixtures. What is the center gauge used for?
A Leaphart
 
The Center gauge is most often used to locate the leading edge of a tool/cutter tooth to be sharpened on the center line. Traveling the tooth rest finger from that center line will cause the clearance/relief to be correct. The center gauge can also be used to set the wheel height or the tooth lip to exactly the center made by the machine centers...and most often the standard work head

The rule of setting the tooth edge above or below the center is the cuter diameter x the desired clearance x 9.
Example:
3" cutter x 6* clearance x 9 = 162 or 162 thousandths = .162".

The actual drop/raise number is .156 but using x9 as the multiplier is best because you can do that in your head with not a pencil & pad...and nobody will see/check that you are .006 off on clearance (you almost always have a half degree tolerance on clearance.)
 
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Get the Cincinnati TC grinder handbook/manual. It shows many Tc grinding fixtures and methods, valuable for any Tc grinder, and those who want to be grinder hand.
Free at Vintage Machine (send them a $10 donation for being there for us.0

The quick logic is to hand hold the cutter to a parked wheel and visualize what method/fixture is needed to do the task.

To bring the cutter edge to the wheel, and then knock (Hand bump)the edge (table or fixture) to a match is much quicker than trying to view dials and adjust the numbers.

Very often the dial/protractor numbers are not exact because of compounding.
To match the grind and then adjust a tickle is much faster.
 
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Get the Cincinnati TC grinder handbook/manual. It shows many Tc grinding fixtures and methods, valuable for any Tc grinder, and those who want to be grinder hand.
Free at Vintage Machine (send them a $10 donation for being there for us.0

The quick logic is to hand hold the cutter to a parked wheel and visualize what method/fixture is needed to do the task.

To bring the cutter edge to the wheel, and then knock (Hand bump)the edge (table or fixture) to a match is much quicker than trying to view dials and adjust the numbers.

Very often the dial/protractor numbers are not exact because of compounding.
To match the grind and then adjust a tickle is much faster.

That's generally the way I do it unless grinding a cutter way down to where the original profile is gone. Good advice.
 
I order a book.
Hope it helps. Tool and cutter grinding by Marcus bowman
I don't have that book, It looks like it may be good. Hand spin a spin spindle a number of times if a machine has been setting a time/ jog start cold spindle/ check your motor RPM and pulleys to see that it is running at the safe speed for wheels. straight wheels like surface grinder wheels run slower than cup wheels, so read the wheel labels, ring test SG wheels/ always use a blotter on a vitrified wheel/ stay out of the blow-up direction/ use the wheel guard / don't pet growling dogs/ buy a loupe to look at edges.I wear a mask nowadays...and safety glasses.
Ask away anything, PM guys like to share info,
 
I just read your first post, good that the spindle feels very smooth, not gravely unless you're up to putting in new bearings. Travel slop is likely not a big thing to fix. I have a machine like that I used for sharpening HSS router bits, by the hundreds by setting my small tool post grinder on top of the KoLee wheel head.
 
Here is the link to the KoLee manual, not as good as the old Cini manual but stll worth having. The center gage is shone.
free download(send the site $10 donation,

Center gauge page 20
Positioning the tooth rest finger straight 90^ off the tooth face will make
a more solid feel because the finger won't attempt to slide in accordance to the top face rake angle. For reamers end sharpening a double point finger allows the reamer's OD to support the higher point and the lower point rests on the tooth face. I prefer straight fingers about 2 to 3" long and about .060 to.100 thick.
 
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