Magnetic chuck

[Gukman]

We have a Blanchard #18 that we don't use in our shop. I was wondering if the magnetic chuck can be removed and used independently as a table to hold smaller parts to be cleaned with a hand grinder.

 

[eKretz]

We have a Blanchard #18 that we don't use in our shop. I was wondering if the magnetic chuck can be removed and used independently as a table to hold smaller parts to be cleaned with a hand grinder.

Sure, as long as you take the controller too.

 

[Hobby Shop]

I’d sell the grinder and buy a few large permanent chucks. Depending where you’re at, they can be had for almost nothing. I threw a couple in the scrap pile because you can’t give them away.

 

[eKretz]

The nice thing about the electromagnetic chucks is that most of them demagnetize as well. This is even more handy when you think about the fact that it sounds like he's going to be hand grinding and creating a lot of dry swarf...

 

[Hobby Shop]

I’ll agree the de-mag is nice feature but I wouldn’t trade the mobility of a permanent magnet on a table.

I grind over and flex arm die sections everyday on multiple 12”x24” permanent magnets and never had an issue with swarf sticking to them. Grinding dust has never stuck to the permanent magnet on the P&M either.

 

[CarbideBob]

Super easy to do.
If demag wanted you put in a reversing toggle switch and bump it back and forth which is what the fancy controllers do.
The chucks come in 110 and 240 wiring but can be changed.
Line power, a bridge rectifier to make DC and switch is all that you need. ( the magnet wants DC not AC)
Without a demag cycle or you biping the switch back and forth your part will be magnetic when it comes off .

 

[eKretz]

Yeah I was more worried about the parts getting magnetized and swarf sticking to those. Happens all the time on the surface grinder with a permanent mag chuck.

 

[dana gear]

Super easy to do.
If demag wanted you put in a reversing toggle switch and bump it back and forth which is what the fancy controllers do.
The chucks come in 110 and 240 wiring but can be changed.
Line power, a bridge rectifier to make DC and switch is all that you need. ( the magnet wants DC not AC)
Without a demag cycle or you biping the switch back and forth your part will be magnetic when it comes off .

We had a giant magnetic base from a large Peterson surface grinder that we retired.
We mounted the base on another machine, and as you described we built a 120 volt DC unit to power it, works great

 

[Milling man]

If demag wanted you put in a reversing toggle switch and bump it back and forth which is what the fancy controllers do.

It seems to me that for a good demagnetization, a DAMPING alternating magnetic field is needed?
The easiest option is to pick up and install a capacitor in parallel with the magnetic chuck. When the power is turned off, it forms an LC circuit with damped oscillations with the chuck. It works worse than a normal controller, but better than nothing.