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Milling 1/16" deep slot in crs

Froneck

Titanium
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Location
McClure, PA 17059
I have a project I'm thinking of doing. It will require a 1/16" slot 2" long and 1/2" deep in crs. I have the slitting saws in straight and with side teeth, 3" diameter to be used in a #2 size K&T horz. mill and arbor with outboard support.
What is the suggested max depth and feed rate? Would be ideal to do it in one cut if possible, I think slowest feed is 1/4"/min. Can increase slot width to 5/64" if necessary.
 
I'll start out. The cutters without "side teeth" are more appropriately slotting saws, for slotting screw heads and the like. Those should probably not be used to cut any deeper than 2x width. The ones with side teeth are the ones for your application, cutting to depth in 2 or 3 passes. Slow feed, plenty of coolant or cutting fluid and air to clear the chips. I'm sure others will chime in with more specifics.
 
Figure the chip load per tooth for speed. The depth is limited by the amount of chip in each gullet; pack them full and the saw will jam and break. Start with shallow cuts and increase until the gullets are mostly full.

Dennis
 
I slot 303SS .051 wide. Cutting through 3/8" wall tubing. I use 3 passes of 1/8" deep. I use black cutting oil misted on with the air providing chip clearing duties. Hand feed as it is on a small horizontal mill built for slotting screws and the power feed is too fast.
 
I used to use $14 carbide tip wood circular saw blades for a lot of work that needed a thin kerf and need to reach over the vice jaws. Since Milwaukee and others have came out with metal spacific circular saw blades blades I use them instead. They cost more but I am impressed. I made an arbor for a 4or 5" one and it ran out less than .001".The wood blades are 4-5" ro. At 400 rpm I parted off some stacks of D2 knife blade blanks about .750 deep x 6"L one pass no problem. Used it to slice a 4"L x .750 w blank out of some 2" round pre hard 4140 , still feels sharp all hand fed. Used Kool Mist to mainly clear the chips.

I have quite a few HSS stagger tooth and straight slotting/slitting saws up 6" but the circular saw blades for what I used them for have out preformed them. They are not a facing tool but buried in a cut they work fine. your job would be one pass and very fast . Not cost effective on your one piece job but if you had to slot 20' different deal.
 
I used to use $14 carbide tip wood circular saw blades for a lot of work that needed a thin kerf and need to reach over the vice jaws. Since Milwaukee and others have came out with metal spacific circular saw blades blades I use them instead. They cost more but I am impressed. I made an arbor for a 4or 5" one and it ran out less than .001".The wood blades are 4-5" ro. At 400 rpm I parted off some stacks of D2 knife blade blanks about .750 deep x 6"L one pass no problem. Used it to slice a 4"L x .750 w blank out of some 2" round pre hard 4140 , still feels sharp all hand fed. Used Kool Mist to mainly clear the chips.

I have quite a few HSS stagger tooth and straight slotting/slitting saws up 6" but the circular saw blades for what I used them for have out preformed them. They are not a facing tool but buried in a cut they work fine. your job would be one pass and very fast . Not cost effective on your one piece job but if you had to slot 20' different deal.
This is the blade.
 

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