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The wire should not be touching that pipe. You may need to reset the rollers. If I remember correctly you can take the roller off the shaft and rotate it. Make the front of the wheel the back and then reinstall on the shaft. This only works if the wire isn't in the center of the wheel. I believe it runs out of center so you can use the take up rollers twice.
When is the wire breaking? Rough cuts only, skims only, only on entry, constantly?
.010 wire. But how thick is your part? Are you taper cutting?
The wire is breaking constantly. Rough, skim, and entry. The part I am currently attempting to wire is 2.500in with no taper. But it is also breaking on smaller parts as well. I will check to see if I can flip those rollers around.
Hi. I'm new to running a wire edm, only been doing so for 6 months now. Running a 1994 Mitsubishi DWC90C machine. My issue is that over the past few month the wire has been breaking at an increased frequency. Last week it was breaking every few minutes. Big or small, tall or short it doesn't matter what I'm cutting. Every once and a while it will cut good but then back to the non stop breaking. I have taken apart the top/bottom and cleaned, replaced the carbide feeders top/bottom, diamond guides, checked the bottom roller and replaced the bearings, greased the ways, changed resin/pre-filter/filter, changed to a different brand of wire, adjusted the flushing, and adjusted epaks while running. Nothing I have done has helped and I'm not sure what else to try or where to look. If anyone can provide me with some help I would greatly appreciate it.
I think your wire tension settings may be too high for the roller bearings in your feed rollers. Once they go bad or start rolling with resistance and or stops and starts any real wire tension will cause the wire to pop easily. I'm not gonna BS and say I know more possibilities the carbide feeders were my first thought and it looks like you've checked that. If a reduced wire tension setting doesn't solve it then maybe break down and call the service techs. They know the quirks on certain machines that nobody else knows because they have to deal with them often enough to remember and notate issues we all are clueless on. Good Luck I know it is a pain in the butt but you'll learn from this and have it in your noggin next time you cross over it.
UPDATE: Had a Mitsubishi service tech come in. There were a few issues, replaced old power cables and there was a board in the DC unit that was not working so that was replaced. He did a PM of the machine, cleaned and checked everything out. We are now up and running
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Hopefully UP and running.

Thanks for updating your post, that doesn't happen often enough around here and will help someone.
Unfortunately its not up to me whether or not that happens. If I had the authority I would go ahead and do it. Considering the age of the machine and the fact I have no idea of what maintenance if any has been done on it, I think it would be a good investment and well worth the money. My ability to get the parts made is suffering greatly right now. Limping through these jobs rethreading every 5 minutes or so isn't good for the company or me for that matter.
If you are going to run that machine, I suggest paying the fee, and getting a tech out there to help setup/troubleshoot. After that, start buying used PCB and drives when you see them cheap. Also look into getting the floppy emulator for saving the O/S and parameter files. Make sure your 6V battery is good as well, might just as well buy a new one.
What setting are you trying to cut on? Varying, Optimum, Thin cut? Do you use PM or Adaptive Control feature? Is there a threading issue at all as well? Is it breaking when first touching the part or in the cut randomly? At corners? How is the quality of water? Have you done a VG adjustment yet?
Just a few avenues you might want to chase. I would definitely do the VG adjustment for sure. I have an FX10 and MV2400S and the VG is very important.

Hope it helps.