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Modify an axle to accept an ABS/TCS tone/reluctor ring. What's the best choice?


Sep 12, 2016
Pasadena, CA
Sorry, long time lurker, first time poster.

I have a 12 bolt rear end that I'd like to use in place of my 10 bolt rear end.

The problem is that my OEM 10 bolt rear end is set up with 4 channel ABS/TCS brakes, which consists of a reluctor wheel on each axle. The 12 bolt is set up for 3 channel, which means the rear end only has one reluctor wheel going around the OD of the ring gear.

I noticed that the ID of the stock 10 bolt, 4 channel reluctor wheel is just under 3" (forget the actual number at this moment).

Assuming that I had a Moser rear end, I ordered Moser reulctor wheel, but it isn't correct (found out that my axles aren't moser). The ID of the hole in the moser reluctor wheel is 2.25", which is much closer to the OD of the axle, but still not close enough.

This is a picture of a stock 10 bolt axle (3ch on the left, 4 ch on the right).

My 12 bolt axle is similar to the axle on the left, but bigger shaft diameter.
The other difference is that my stock 10 bolt uses C Clips to retain the axles and the 12 bolt uses a C-Clip eliminator (which uses a retainer to hold in the axle).

My 12 bolt axle actually looks more like this (excuse my bad MS Paint drawings):

The light gray area is a polished area where the bearing stops against and the seal rides on.

I know the best answer is to order the correct axles from moser and be done with it, but hey, why make life easy? :)

My goal is to end up with something like this:
The blue is the bearing
The red is the bearing retainer
The light purple is the reluctor wheel (also known as a tone ring)
The yellow is the part that I want to make.

I am unsure which of the following would be best.

Option 1. Use casting sand and/or a cut can as a mold to pour molten aluminum (from a backyard coffee can foundry) onto the base of the shaft then turn down the OD to press fit the reluctor on. Something like the right axle in the very first pic.

Would there be any problems from doing this? Electrolosis?

Option 2. Fill in the white gap area between gray axle and yellow piece.
I can then turn this filled in area, down to the same OD as the polished metal, so I can press on my newly made piece. If this is the best option, then the next questions is what to fill this with:
Axle Filled.jpg

2a. using something like JB weld, then turn it down to match polish OD​
2b. fill using molten aluminum such as previous step, but in much smaller OD, than can be turned to match the polished steel OD​
2c. make a two piece sleeve that can fit in the area​
2d. Weld onto axle to build up the area. Problem is that I'm a better grinder than welder​
2e. Fill in this area with something else?​

Option 3. Cut a notch into the axle flange (thus weakening it?) so I can press something on and have it supported by this notch and the polished area.

Axle Notched Taper.jpg

if this is the best option, do I leave the air gap, or use a filler from step 2?
Nov 19, 2007
marysville ohio
I did this a few weeks ago. Turn the axle flange OD. I made a piece that is a light press on the flange OD, it covers the wheel stud heads and then flanges out to fit your chopper wheel I can do it for you if you don't have the machines. Option 2d will ruin the axle, I can't think of a worse place to weld, It will kill the heat treat, probably warp and pull the flange out of true and any inclusions will be an instant stress riser.


Sep 12, 2016
Pasadena, CA
I might give that a go this weekend if I get some time.
"IF" being the key word.

So did you make yours out of steel?

I think I have some aluminum that I can test out first.

How much would something like cost, for the pair?