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Morton multivise no. 2, need pics of handle

Cannonmn

Stainless
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
I have a Morton Multivise 2 without handle. I’d like to make a replacement handle close to the original. Here’s only pic I could find online, so I’d like a few pics of an original.
 

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Mine looks about like this online pic:

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Heavy knurled inline handle, with a square stub for wrench assist?
It came with a DP bought years ago, and i never used it.
Always looked like it could be useful.
Not sure the traveling jaw on that is the same as mine though.

I've been driving,. early and late, for work projects and auction stuff.
Will dig mine out from under the mill/beside the shaper when things slow down.

smt
 
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Thx, finally got back here. Friend saw this post and brought over his handle, pictured hereE7293633-3356-4415-BCD6-A61104563E9A.jpegC4BBF462-CDBA-4347-8D5F-741426DF8381.jpegE0ADB7FC-A105-44B5-A4D3-074680AB8D9E.jpeg
 
Here's mine.
Cheap digital caliper:

Bare OD near vise is 1.302" dia
over knurl 1.355"
outermost end 1.283"
OD of flatted stub shaft extention .718"
flat thickness .475"

It can be seen the handle is held on with a roll pin.
Handle is hollow, and contains a plastic sleeve that can slide to protect the exposed length of screw.

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Apprentice then made the spline collar pending a decision on Crank or axial handle.

Your vise must be considerably different from the Mortons i've seen and own.
The inline handle is fine for running up the jaws and even tightening them for most work.
As can be seen, is non-interfering, with vise positioned on a machine table. If it needs a tweek, the sub was clearly sized for a crescent type wrench. Or maybe what is .475" in metric?

smt
 
Thx, I’m sure we’ll wind up with something from the junk box that somewhat resembles the black tube handle shown in recent posts, we rarely venture into new production when a junk box thing will work with or without minor mods.

Give an example, our 3 hp K&T vertical mill’s dual-thread drawbar works for most 50 and 40 taper arbors (with 40 adapter sleeve) and we wanted it to do one more, a Cinci 50-taper with BS9 internal taper, ‘cause we have some nice sharp BS9 endmills. Only issue was when 5/8-11 threads engage, drawbar is about 3 to 4” too long to seat in the bushing at top of mill. Rather than take time to do a new spacer we threw a spare 1” 5c collet in, worked perfectly, right ID, OD, and length, saved at least 90 min. Here are some pix with the diff kinds of arbors that will all work in that mill now, plus the drawbar with spacer, fully seated in free-spinning bushing. Files tooo beeg so gotta use link. https://www.flickr.com/photos/189102681@N07/shares/H7ReR1
 
Apprentice made it from 2 pieces in the junk box, minimal machining on both then pressed together with interference fit overlapping by 1/2 inch. Only part of this that didn’t go well was gold part turned out to be so hard it wouldn’t take knurling evenly then only slightly with great force behind knurls. If the half-azz knurling isn’t enough grip I’ll slot it all around on shaper. Wonder if the average spindex can handle forces on the downstream end of a shaper? Guess if it looks like excessive thrust for spindex we just make shallower cuts. Think our limited use of the Morton will,keep us from wanting to put any more time in on this handle.
 

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Wonder if the average spindex can handle forces on the downstream end of a shaper?

The spindex can.
However, if the cut is heavy, that amount of stick-out on a 5c arbor will deflect badly unless you put it on a V-block in front jacked up to support it. My preference is to shape stuff like that between centers. It will also be a good idea to put some pins & blocks or extra T-slot clamped furniture behind the spindex if it is a heavy cut.

I shape discs, like for gears or sprockets, with a straddle support that goes over top the dividing head or index, and is adjusted to support the back of the rim directly opposite the cut.

None of that is an issue with the spindex, but of work and workholding. Common to many shaper set ups.

smt
 
Ok, friend commented offline that the black cylinder handle someone posted is fine for the smaller Morton’s but for our big one he insists we’ll need more torque at times. So I revisited junkbox to retrieve the big hex fitting shown, had 1/2 of length as a cylinder which I turned down until there’d be 4 thou interference with the gold cylinder. Pressed it in with hyd press and put matching wrench with it. https://www.flickr.com/photos/189102681@N07/shares/0QY539
 
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Shop apprentice here.

We constructed a more appropriate handle for this size of vise. For reference, I have attached an image of several different Morton vises (of various sizes) next to each other. Hopefully this will eliminate any confusion should someone find themselves in a similar situation in the future.
 

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