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need help with Monarch 10ee conversion to 230 volts

kpuma72

Plastic
Joined
Apr 30, 2023
I recently received a 1967 monarch 10ee lathe . still going thru it trying to get it running. I have done I think all of the wire changes from 480 to 230 volts . I had to add a control transformer for the t-6 and t-7 filament transformers . I now have 2.65 volts to the filaments but lathe still will not start. I cant find any info on testing c16j tubes . the c3j tube is lit. the pc contactor pulls in when pressing control on button after amber light is lit. the 2mf or 2mr contactor engages with movement of spindle control lever. I also found 2 bad diodes in the module and several bad solder joints in the module which I have repaired. I am also confused about the machine being able to run without the module connected. so any help understanding this machine and getting to the bottom of the problem will be greatly appreciated! I do want to keep the original drive system intact .
 
I will also be looking for some parts if anyone has any available.
1. c16j tubes
2.taper attachment clamp
3.module
4. would like the 230 volt filament transformers
 
C-16 tubes check eBay or Monarch sometimes has some.
Better yet Scissio has made new replacements for the C-16 tubes. He also makes replacement for modules along with T-4 transformers. Great guy.

Hal
 
I will also be looking for some parts if anyone has any available.
1. c16j tubes
2.taper attachment clamp
3.module
4. would like the 230 volt filament transformers
Regarding the taper attachment clamp, I noticed this on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3047816582...ff6ccmGWoJ0GEEHjD4kt4q4TAp|tkp:Bk9SR7zAxfeAYg

This seller also is offering them made of steel at a higher price.

I have no experience with this seller or these products. I got lucky, my 1977 10EE still had its original (cast iron?) bed clamp when I got it.

Also I recall some discussion here in the past about the replacement bed clamps made of aluminum that would apply even more to one made of steel. It went something like this: the original cast iron clamp could act as something of a weak link that would break under certain circumstances saving more complex and expensive/hard to replace parts. It was felt that the aluminum clamps available new as replacements at that time might not be weak enough.

I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable about this matter could expand on it.

David
 
The eBay 10EE taper attachment (TA) bed clamp (link) is CNC machined from 7075 aluminum and sells for $295. The steel version (link) sells for $365, machined from unknown allow "billet steel". (Shipping is apparently not included in the price.) I think that a much better option is the casting from Martin Model and Pattern. It's cast from gray iron and is unfinished, that is, it needs to be machined and does not include the clamping bolt, etc. At last word, Gary Martin was selling these for $75 plus $12 flat-rate shipping:
As to the aluminum or steel versions being too strong: Virtually every TA bed clamp that's shown up here in the last 20 years has been broken in the same manner and appear to have failed due to excessive force being applied to the clamping arm. This leads some to conclude that the clamp is too weak and a desire to make a more robust version.

I think that's the wrong conclusion. The design of the entire TA assembly, including the bed clamp, does not appear to have changed for at least 25 years, starting in 1944. I have no doubt that if the clamps were failing in normal use, Monarch would have redesigned them.

It's easy to see that if the operator over-travels the TA when the bed clamp and rod are in place, something will break. Either the rod will bend, the bed clamp break, the bracket on the bottom of the TA itself will break or worse. If the bed clamp is the strongest piece of hardware, something else will bend or break. It's my belief that Monarch intendeds the weak link to be bed bracket.

Gray cast iron has a tensile strength of 20 to 50 ksi, depending on the grade. The eBay aluminum bed clamp is made of 7075 aluminum, which has a tensile strength of about 80 ksi, that's actually greater than some steel alloys. So the eBay clamp IS stronger than original clamp and I don't think that's a good thing.
 
Every bed clamp I have seen that is broken failed in shear. i.e. twist caused the failure. They don't break by being over-clamped. Instead, the lip breaks off when the clamp is twisted due to a collision with the taper attachment.. Easy to fix, braze the break and re-machine the lip. I have sen plenty of them fixed that way.

I also think Martin's price for the casting is way too high. Its time for a group purchase from Cattail Foundry. I've had them make things of similar size in the past and the cost per item was much lower, maybe a third of Martin's price. Prices are up I am sure, but not that much.
 
Every bed clamp I have seen that is broken failed in shear. i.e. twist caused the failure. They don't break by being over-clamped. Instead, the lip breaks off when the clamp is twisted due to a collision with the taper attachment.. Easy to fix, braze the break and re-machine the lip. I have sen plenty of them fixed that way.

I also think Martin's price for the casting is way too high. Its time for a group purchase from Cattail Foundry. I've had them make things of similar size in the past and the cost per item was much lower, maybe a third of Martin's price. Prices are up I am sure, but not that much.
Did the group purchase come to fruition?
I'd be interested if it happens.
 
Martin model did get set up and was charging $75 each. You will have to verify the price with Mr. Martin.
The castings need the flats machined. Nice castings
 
I went with Martin and was tickled with the results. Happy to pay a little extra for "Some assembly required."
 








 
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