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Need help with Monarch 12ck

R strother

Plastic
Joined
May 17, 2023
Hello I’m knew to the group. I’ve got a 12ck that I’m trying to remove the rack or gear rail. The front piece is about 8-1/2” long . It looks like just one Allen screw and two dowels or something holding it in place. Is the something I’m missing? I don’t want damage it getting it offIMG_7480.jpegIMG_7480.jpeg
 
Also check the inside of your bed to see if the pin holes go all the way though... on my 14 they do. Some models of the C also had "jack" holes that allow you to put the socket cap screw in another threaded hole and pull it off the bed with the pins intact by just threading the socket caps into those holes and cranking them down. I'm not sure what years or sizes had what though.
 
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Also check the inside of your bed to see if the pin holes go all the way though... on my 14 they do. Some models of the C also had "jack" holes that allow you to put the socket cap screw in another threaded hole and pull it off the bed with the pins intact by just threading the socket caps into those holes and cranking them down. I'm not sure what years or sizes had what though.
I don’t think the pins go all the way through but I’m going to check again and I couldn’t find jack holes .
 
Hello I’m knew to the group. I’ve got a 12ck that I’m trying to remove the rack or gear rail. The front piece is about 8-1/2” long . It looks like just one Allen screw and two dowels or something holding it in place. Is the something I’m missing? I don’t want damage it getting it offView attachment 396303View attachment 396303
Sometimes these things can be quite stubborn. I don’t have a CK, but I have removed these from other machines. Try taking a wood chisel, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide, and grind it so it has a long shallow taper with a sharp point. You may only be able to take out a small section of the rack out but sometimes it is easier or even necessary to start at the tailstock end where you can place the chisel parallel to the bed and square up at the end. If you can get the rack to move a little, take a soft metal shallow taper wedge and place it in the crack you've opened up next to the chisel. Then move down to the next pin. The idea is a little like splitting a rail. Remember to go just a little at a time. You don’t want to bend the rack.

Another tip is when you go back with this thing, try to keep all of the taper pins in their original holes and use a taper pin reamer to lightly clean the taper pin holes. Nothing worse than to get it almost all the way back on and have a taper pin not seat all the way or have one go too far.
 
Sometimes these things can be quite stubborn. I don’t have a CK, but I have removed these from other machines. Try taking a wood chisel, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide, and grind it so it has a long shallow taper with a sharp point. You may only be able to take out a small section of the rack out but sometimes it is easier or even necessary to start at the tailstock end where you can place the chisel parallel to the bed and square up at the end. If you can get the rack to move a little, take a soft metal shallow taper wedge and place it in the crack you've opened up next to the chisel. Then move down to the next pin. The idea is a little like splitting a rail. Remember to go just a little at a time. You don’t want to bend the rack.

Another tip is when you go back with this thing, try to keep all of the taper pins in their original holes and use a taper pin reamer to lightly clean the taper pin holes. Nothing worse than to get it almost all the way back on and have a taper pin not seat all the way or have one go too far.
The taper pin shows come out as the rack comes out is that correct? I’ve been able to get a small section of the rack to move slightly with a small chisel but the pin is not coming out. The rack is coming out pass the pin so I stopped
 
The taper pin shows come out as the rack comes out is that correct? I’ve been able to get a small section of the rack to move slightly with a small chisel but the pin is not coming out. The rack is coming out pass the pin so I stopped
Usually, the taper pins come out with the rack and then you can knock them out of the rack. If you have one that is stuck in the bed but the rack is moving, I would continue pulling the rack out as squarely as possible. The pin may eventually grab, or the pin may pull through the rack. If it is the latter, then you can remove the taper pin from the bed by getting ahold of the pin with a vice grip and slide hammer or cutting it off flush. In either case when you go back, you’ll need to redrill and enlarge the taper for a slightly oversized pin. Make sure the rack is bolted and pinned with the existing hardware before you do this to maintain location.
 
Those may be dowel pins, rather than taper pins. In this application, a dowel pin make more sense, since what you're after is controlling the alignment, not trying to use the pin to hold anything in place.
 
I don't know how similar the Monarch racks are.
Also check the inside of your bed to see if the pin holes go all the way though... on my 14 they do. Some models of the C also had "jack" holes that allow you to put the socket cap screw in another threaded hole and pull it off the bed with the pins intact by just threading the socket caps into those holes and cranking them down. I'm not sure what years or sizes had what though.

That is how I got mine off. 1/2" bolts in several holes like this one and the rack came right off.

1686098374513.png

Dramatic reenactment
1686098482953.png
 








 
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