What's new
What's new

New or Like New Tail Stock Spindle for 10L

Chet;

A new 10L tailstock quill is quite expensive. The last price I saw for a new one in the box was around $500.00.

If anyone has a new one or like new one it will be 4 members of this BBS: Ted Pflugner, aka, "latheman2"; Kenny, aka "Cicero"; John Poser, aka Texan.45; or Ronnie--aka penelopepitstop.

Oh yes, there is another person that may have one--Craig Donges at 330-502-0066.

According to your experience and skill you might make one yourself, if you have the Morse roughing and finishing reamers. Use 1 1/4" leaded steel round bar to make one. I have used leaded steel alloy as well as harder steel to make them. If you want to make one yourself, you can contact me and I can tell you how to accurate engrave the markings on the OD, or you can send it to me and I will engrave them for you.

Regards;
Steve
 
Chet;

A new 10L tailstock quill is quite expensive. The last price I saw for a new one in the box was around $500.00.

If anyone has a new one or like new one it will be 4 members of this BBS: Ted Pflugner, aka, "latheman2"; Kenny, aka "Cicero"; John Poser, aka Texan.45; or Ronnie--aka penelopepitstop.

Oh yes, there is another person that may have one--Craig Donges at 330-502-0066.

According to your experience and skill you might make one yourself, if you have the Morse roughing and finishing reamers. Use 1 1/4" leaded steel round bar to make one. I have used leaded steel alloy as well as harder steel to make them. If you want to make one yourself, you can contact me and I can tell you how to accurate engrave the markings on the OD, or you can send it to me and I will engrave them for you.

Regards;
Steve

I also need a new or good used one. Why would you use leaded? I know its easy to machine, but geez, the stuff is so damn soft. As I recall, back in the good ol days of South Bend they offered a hardened ground option for the quill. If I go to all the trouble of making one I'm going to be making it out of some tougher material, and maybe even go the hard/ground route myself.
 
I also need a new or good used one. Why would you use leaded? I know its easy to machine, but geez, the stuff is so damn soft. As I recall, back in the good ol days of South Bend they offered a hardened ground option for the quill. If I go to all the trouble of making one I'm going to be making it out of some tougher material, and maybe even go the hard/ground route myself.

John;

Yes, the leaded steel is very soft, and being soft seems to hold the the Morse taper tools in place better--at least that is my opinion and experience than carbon steel. I have made them from different types of carbon steel as well. I believe it is likely that a hardened and ground quill and using a similar hardened and ground Morse taper tool(s) would hold best of all--but I am not certain on this matter.

If I make a tailstock quill for others they can let me know what they want it made from. When I make them for me I like to use leaded steel. Until I made a quill from leaded steel, I would not have thought that I would have like them better.

I have modified a number of SB tailstock quills for extended range and from time to time I encounter a quill that makes those nice little "C" scroll chips as I am machining them--indicating to me that I am working on one that was originally made of leaded steel.

Regards;
Steve
 
I was thinking of starting out with an extended #2 MT drill socket then machining it to suit. The tricky part will be applying the graduations. I have a Gorton Engraver, but I've yet to make use of it. I guess this would be a good time to learn how to use it.
 
Steve (jockofthelowveld) did the quill extension for me and I can testify to the quality of his work. Should you elect to have Steve produce a quill for you I am sure that you will not be disappointed.

Eric Easterling aka Vlad
 
Same here the extension was a great upgrade. I added a DRO and it replaced the distance I lost with the reader on the cross slide.

John
 
According to your experience and skill you might make one yourself, if you have the Morse roughing and finishing reamers. Use 1 1/4" leaded steel round bar to make one. I have used leaded steel alloy as well as harder steel to make them. If you want to make one yourself, you can contact me and I can tell you how to accurate engrave the markings on the OD, or you can send it to me and I will engrave them for you.


Know way am I going to try to make a accurate spindle. It took me days just to get mine reading to around .001 all the way around the test bar. Using both shims and a # 2 morse taper finish reamer. Took maybe 50 attempt’s putting the Albrecht chuck in and taking it out, each time taking a reading on the indicator than taking a really light cut with the reamer. But I know that I am not going to even think that I can make a spindle and bore a # 2 morse taper and have it come out this accurate. I have a friend that lives 50 north of me that has a very nice heavy 10 that has been down for over a year cleaning it up. Some how the tail stock spindle has been missed placed and we both have looked for it well over 3 months. He won’t even touch a computer so I am helping him to find a spindle.
Grizzly South Bend Parts has it listed new $389.00. If we can’t find a really good one we will go the Grizzly route but was hoping to save a few bucks.
P.S. I know that a reamer will follow the center of the hole but I got it done and it holds the all my # 2 morse taper shanks very tight. One thing I found is that all my tooling with # 2 morse taper will not indicate them same. But the Albrecht chuck does indicate very well and repeats very well.

Chet
 
I picked up a some a few days ago. I haven't gone through them yet. Give me a few days.
Ted
Thanks Ted we have been waiting for over 3 months can wait a few days more.
Can PM or e-mail me at [email protected]

Thanks Chet
 
Hi Ted tried sending PM but your full up and tried sending e-mail but can't seem to get it to go thur either. I hope you have not forgot about my friend needing a heavy 10 TS spindle. Still looking for one in very good to new shape. Thanks Ted


Chet
 








 
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