New to CNC'ing Aluminum - Need Assistance

[latheman78]

On the 6061 make sure it is good quality, the stuff from China is crap.

 

[Blaser Swisslube]

Here's some screenshots of our inventory:

View attachment 377099
View attachment 377100
View attachment 377101

I can't comment on their age, sharpness, or usage throughout their lifetime, but I'd love to refresh them, use them, and really learn CNC work, especially with metals. I've done a few projects with wood, wax, and Renshape materials. Also if you see any glaring issues, I'm all ears! Note: the engravers are unfortunately tip-less... Whoops.

Based on this chart, minimum quantity lubricant (MQL), also known as a mister, would be sufficient. For reference, we've attached product information of one of our MQL products.

 

[memphisjed]

Send cut send for your al blanks. A quick sand stick/file on the edges is faster cheaper better than what you have going on now.

 

[Comatose]

So, I have a second question that's somewhat unrelated, but I did not want to start another forum post.


The Z-zeroing process for a Shopbot is to complete an electrical circuit using an aluminum z-plate which the tool slowly lowers onto until it makes contact and triggers a sensor. The machine knows the thickness of the plate and accounts for that when zeroing. However, it's made of aluminum and is completely uncovered on the bottom, and if I place the z-plate on my aluminum stock, it will register the metal-on-metal contact and think it is triggering the sensor without ever lowering.

If I put a piece of paper between the z-plate and the face of the aluminum stock, the zero point ends up being a few millimeters above the stock, and if I'm cutting say 0.03" into the stock, the cut never happens--the tool hovers just above the material.

If I change my VCarve settings to zero to the top of the spoil board, the tool is even further above the material (around 1/8th an inch).

What I have resorted to is manually nudging the z-axis down until it's "scraping" the surface, but this could lead to slightly deeper or shallow cuts, and is also very time-consuming. I was thinking of thinly painting the bottom of the z-plate, but I'm unsure if this will work.

Long story short, I'm looking for a way to better zero-to-metal material. Paper is somehow too thick to accomplish this! It's not an issue when zeroing to non-conductive materials.

I could also be setting up VCarve incorrectly, but I've watched some videos, read up on how to do this, and tried numerous "configs" with the software. Any help would be great! And thank you all for being so helpful and informative.

You set the tool length off the table, not off the part.

 

[RHSTechTeacher]

Shopbot has a good forum also. There is a variable somewhere in the machine that defines the thickness of your measuring plate. This is not in vcarve. You can change it, so if you bolt a piece of plastic to the plate bottom, etc.

This is GREAT to know! Thank you!

 

[RHSTechTeacher]

Based on this chart, minimum quantity lubricant (MQL), also known as a mister, would be sufficient. For reference, we've attached product information of one of our MQL products.

Thank you!

 

[LOTT]

Rather than alcohol or kerosene (with all the flame and fume hazards) use KoolMist. Here's a kit to get started: https://koolmist.com/kool-lite-kit

You mix it pretty weak with water, and the overspray doesn't really make a mess. It's not as good as flood, but way better than nothing. For short runs while you're standing there just spray it from a bottle.