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New (to me) Boxford AUD lathe questions

johnny340

Plastic
Joined
Nov 23, 2022
Hello! First post here.
I just got a Boxford AUD lathe as my first lathe and have a couple questions:
1. It has had the 220v 3 phase motor presumably changed to a 110v single phase one. I can't read the label. mirror pic attached.
When the machine is selected to FWD mode it runs backwards and in REV it turns the correct way but the power drive table goes the wrong way. Could I simply reverse the motor wires to fix this?

2. How does the power cross feed engage? I haven't found a manual online yet..

Many thanks!
 

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Good lathe. I have one but with mechanical variable speed. Mine is set up with a VFD. You probably need to switch wires to get direction synced with labels. For the feed and threading, look at Southbend instructions for 9 and 10” lathes. The Boxfords are pretty much copies of Southbends. The later ones included high speed bearing headstocks.
 
Not sure of your description of the motor wiring issue. At first it sounds like the switch outputs are just reversed. BUT "power drive table"? Do you mean the spindle rotation is reversed but the apron motions,infeed/outfeed and traverse are not.
AFAIK there is a lever on the apron to reverse travels regardless of spindle rotation. Maybe it is in the wrong position.
Bill D

 
Good little lathe which is based on the southbend as mentioned,you maybe able to find a book online called "know your lathe" which goes throught the Boxford.
The leadscrew acts as the driver for the powerfeeds and is engaged by the red lever at the headstock cover. It is a tumbler gear drive,so neutral in the middle and up is one way,down the other for leadscrew and power feeds on the saddle.
You should only engage the tumblers with the spindle off.
On the saddle there is the powerfeed clutch handle(cast fluted knob) just to the right of the saddle wheel.
Make sure this is unscrewed to disengage and the lever above it has a plunger on it,pull this out and up swing it up for crossfeed anddown for traverse. There is an interlock between the leadscrew nut lever on the right and the powerfeed selector,so if it seems stuck make sure the half nuts are all the way open.
Don't go too heavy on cuts if you are running the spindle backwards as the chuck is screwed on,,
Neil
 
The best book for a SB of that vintage is " how to run a lathe". I believe the army manual I linked is a just a government reprint of that booklet. It is based on the 9" SB lathe
 
I could not find that book. (The link was to a publication with part numbers, etc.)
I have it pretty well figured out now. Yes, there is a lever to change the direction of the power feed.
It still seems counter-intuitive to have to reverse the gears for the power drive when switching from 'normal' feed towards the chuck to 'normal' cross-feed into the center. I don't think changing the polarity on the motor would have any affect on this and I should just get used to what REV and FOR really mean on this lathe.


Also, this pic is the inside of the tailstock. Does it look correct? I was expecting to see a slot for the end of the chuck to engage as well as a rod or pin to disengage parts from the tailstock. Turning the adjuster all the way back does not release.
 

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There is no drive tang inside the quill. I have one live center on a too short arbor. It should stick out longer in the back. I tape a nut onto the right hand end and it will eject when the quill is cranked all the way in.
Bill D
 
T
I could not find that book. (The link was to a publication with part numbers, etc.)
I have it pretty well figured out now. Yes, there is a lever to change the direction of the power feed.
It still seems counter-intuitive to have to reverse the gears for the power drive when switching from 'normal' feed towards the chuck to 'normal' cross-feed into the center. I don't think changing the polarity on the motor would have any affect on this and I should just get used to what REV and FOR really mean on this lathe.


Also, this pic is the inside of the tailstock. Does it look correct? I was expecting to see a slot for the end of the chuck to engage as well as a rod or pin to disengage parts from the tailstock. Turning the adjuster all the way back does not release.
That depends on the shank of the morse taper. Some of mine release, some I use a block of wood under the head of the center to pop them loose.
 








 
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