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New Toy - Walker-Turner D950 15" DP

RedlineMan

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Location
Vestal NY
Howdy All;

A small acquisition.

WalkerTurner1.jpg


Dad bought an Asian floor standing DP many years ago. It drills holes, but does absolutely nothing for the soul, and has so much spindle runout that starting a drill in a pilot hole is an adventure, even using a vice. It will soon fall to Craigslist for disposal to someone less interested in history than simply punching holes. Enter the Walker-Turner Model D950 15" DP. A rare look at Craigslist found me this little guy just up the road. Neat place, cool guy, and I didn't even bother dickering him on the $90 asking price. The spindle runs smooth and silent, and the table has but two dings. Off to the shop for discovery of the mysteries that invariably come as part of any such acquisition.

This DP seems to be from the 1940-47 time frame, and has a couple of options. One is the gear and screw driven head raising mechanism. I thought it odd that you would prefer raising the head, to instead having the optional table raising mechanism, but I guess I can see where it might be useful, if only very occasionally. I must say that with everything cleaned and lubed, it works surprisingly well, and does its job with much less physical and mechanical effort required than I suspected. This item offered the first repair opportunity.

W-THeadRaisingAssy1.jpg


W-THeadRaisingAssy2.jpg


As is often the case, at some point, someone of dubious mechanical sensitivity decided the clamping bolt used to hold the assembly to the column needed significantly more tightening than was required, and managed to snap one ear off the clamp. Quite possibly, the task of enjoining a repair fell to the same chap, and while he did achieve a usable fix, it was far from aesthetically pleasing. I decided it needed something more satisfying, and whipped out a quick alternative that is less aggravating to the senses. More pleasingly shaped, and adding countersunk screws instead of hex bolts.

W-THeadRaisingMech2.jpg


W-THeadRaisingBrkt2.jpg


The inside of the gear cover provides a decent idea of what the color may have been.

W-TColor.jpg


Another option the DP has is the adjustable angle table. With a pivot bolt and locking pin underneath, it can be set to any radial angle needed. As I was getting things back together, one of the mysteries arose as I noted that the spindle did not line up with the clearance hole in the center of the table? Only two minor strikes on the perimeter of this hole is fairly remarkable, given this puzzling misalignment.

W-TTableSpacer.jpg


I made a spacer plate of exactly 1/2" thickness, nicely shaped of course, which solved the alignment problem, but the mystery of why it was the way it was remains. Another mystery in this pic is the base. It is obviously not the same color, in a pleasing charcoal metallic, as the drab green inside the head raising gear cover, nor the table, which is a lighter solid grey.

W-TBase.jpg


Was this DP sold by Sears? It seemed a possibility. Then, this base bears no resemblance to any of the W-T catalog pics I've managed to find. In the end, I am forced to believe that someone somehow managed to break the original base, and this one presented itself as a worthy replacement. In fact, this base has a much more elegant system for affixing it to the column, with a single set screw pressing against an internal saddle that in turn wedges against the column. Cleaning the column, and finding other pics of similar DPs on the web revealed the far less efficient double set screw marks cut into this column by the original and far cruder base assembly. No, this one is not correct, but I like it.
 
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Another mystery;

W-THeadstockLockLever.jpg


Every pic I've seen of these DPs shows handles with round balls on their ends. I didn't really pay too much attention when I removed this one for cleaning, but I kept all the pieces together, and when I went to put it back on, it didn't even come close to locking the head casting to the column. Hunh? How can this thing.....whatever, it's not important, get it working.... I just went and found a piece of bushing stock of the perfect OD and made the spacer you see here. Onward.

I knew the quill lock was missing when I bought it, and ebay did indeed provide a low cost replacement... until I tried it and it was way too big. Damn... Well, it's not worth sending back. Just another spare, for... something. It wasn't until I was retelling the mystery of the head lock to someone else that it dawned on me that what I had bought was actually a head lock instead. Ha! Problem solved. It seems that the other headlock lever did nothing, and because of the head raising mech holding it up, and the corrosion and schmutz on the column keeping it from spinning, the lock didn't NEED to work. Works slick now. Little victories!

W-TMotorLock.jpg


The belt tensioning system is purely manual on these small presses, and it works just fine. One thing I upgraded was the locking method, which previously was a simple bolt. To avoid the need to have the wrench for it handy at all times to effect the adjustment, I made this locking handle out of a bolt, a piece of rod, and a nut welded on the end and profiled to look like an original piece. Much handier than looking for that damn wrench all the time!

W-THeadLock.jpg


Yes, the previous pic hints that the original motor is long gone, replaced by the ubiquitous washing machine motor. It's only a 1/3hp, but seems to work OK so far, and is much less obvious with a coat of black hammered Rustoleum paint. The shapely little cover I made on the side also hides all the exposed wire-nutted cables that existed when I got it. The trim and stylish original cast switch housing is also missing, but this generic unit looks the part and does the job... for now.

W-T_Table1.jpg


One thing I decided on straight away was on building a new table. The shop made one it came on is definitely hell-for-stout, and looks like it did yeoman's work for decades. Yet, it is pretty short for me, at 6'5", and is a bit wider than home garage space efficiency would dictate. It also was a bit less aesthetic than I cared for, and offered no storage space.

W-THome1.jpg


1.25 x .125 square tube and 1.5 x .1875" angle iron made a taller, smoother, more space efficient replacement, and also offers always needed storage space. All hand fabricated, including the custom steel drawer on soft close sliders! Homey made hockey puck height adjustable feet seem to work really well, only took a couple of hours to make, and saved $60-something over store bought versions. Cool factor = priceless!

W-THome2.jpg


A final item of pure conceit. A custom designed graphic to adorn the drawer, announcing the name and model number of this little guy. This DP looks far more at home here, next to my mid century US Machine vert-mill and pre-teen Prentice gearhead, than that cheapo DP ever did!!

Far fancier than it ever was in some ways, but still a work in progress. I might spring for an original switch cover if I find one for reasonable. I'd sure like a period correct motor, if not an original. Definitely will look for a chuck with less wear, and I've grown fond of those lazy keyless jobs. Most of the main items were good to go. Just a little fun in cleaning and fettling. Hope this all might help anyone else who comes across one of these little guys!
 
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Redline:

I think you scored a very interesting drill press. As to an explanation of why it has the Sears, Roebuck nameplate on the base and a Walker-Turner head, and the elevating screw for the head, here is my own take on it:

1. The Walker-Turner head and column, along with the head elevating screw and gearing were part of a multi-head or "gang" of production drills mounted on a common table. Since the table was at a fixed elevation, the drill heads were raised/lowered on their individual columns to suit the work being performed.

2. At some point, some previous owner decided to convert the Walker Turner production drill head into a "stand alone" bench drill. The original installation may well have been a long cast iron table with mounting holes tapped for anywhere from 2 drill press columns/heads on up to 6 or 8 or ...

3. The previous owner may have had a Sears, Roebuck drill press which had a bad head, but had the same diameter column as the Walker Turner production drill head used. Who knows what happened to the original Sears/Craftsman drill head ? Maybe it was in some shop along with the Walker-Turner production drills. A common enough mis-use of drill presses was to run wire wheels, grinding wheels, burring tools or hole saws in them. This knocks the crap out of the spindle bearings, as they were never intended to take radial (side) loads, and in time, the fit of the quill to the head gets wallowed out. The result is a drill press with a worn out head. In a production shop, a bench drill is a writeoff as it is a small ticket item, and getting the work out and meeting contractual obligations, aside from making money, is the main objective. Trashing a bench drill along the way is not anything anyone would get too upset over in a production shop. I've seen drill presses in production shops used for deburring operations, running burring tools in the chuck, and used to run hole saws. If ever a means of destroying a drill head existed, I think it has to be running hole saws. Hole saws never run concentric with the spindle and put a high radial load on the spindle. In any case, some previous shop owner may well have written off the Sears, Roebuck drill. More simply, someone may have toppled the Sears, Roebuck drill while moving it, maybe toppled it off a pallet or bench or hit it with a forklift and destroyed the head. However it happened, all that was salvageable was the base, column, and table.

At the same time, thinking in terms of WWII and the 1950's, war production was winding down. A multi spindle gang drill may have been gathering dust in the shop and taking up space. The time came to get rid of it. Maybe the ground cast iron table was re-used for something else- setup table, welding table, etc. That left the Walker-Turner production drill heads looking for new homes. One found a new home on the column of the Sears, Roebuck drill with the destroyed head.

Prior to Sear/Craftsman having their power tools made by the Chinese, Sear/Craftsman had their drill presses made by either Atlas or King-Seeley (the Thermos people). Those were good drills in their day. The column and base on your drill may well have been built by either Atlas or King-Seeley and "badged" by Sears, Roebuck.

4. In short, you have a "frankendrill". It is a good job of putting two machines together to make one by some previous owner. A buddy of mine has a bench drill with a Delta or Rockwell head on a Buffalo Forge column/table (or vice versa). Pretty much the same scenario. A production drill head and a base/column/table from two different manufacturers using the same diameter column and same "swing" or distance from centerline of the column to centerline of the spindle.

Clean it up and use it. Know that in some shop, maybe at the end of WWII or maybe when some production shop retooled or downsized, your drill press grew out of two different manufacturers' machines.
 
Coupla things...

- Agree the probability it is a recycled 'gang' W-T.

- You "may" have a Sears column as well as a Sears base. My similar W-T has a solid CI column. The base has a much higher boss to grip more of the column real-estate.

- If your Vee-belt pulleys are original at both ends (they may not be), the motor plate / belt tension screws can be adjusted once when a new belt is fitted, once again when it has settled in, thereafter left alone for the life of that belt. Ten or twenty years is not at all uncommon.

Tensioned no tighter than it needs to be, move larger to smaller first, work the other end whilst loose, modest stretch to finish a ratio change. Belt still at same tension w/o moving the motor.

It will stall the 1/2 HP OEM motor (last rebuilt 1970's) at that tension before it slips enough to matter.

Yer gonna love how well these little W-T make holes well above the sizes they have any visible right to even attempt.

:)

Bill
 
A further thought on the "re-purposed" Walker-Turner drill head .....

Those "gang drill" tables were commonly powered by 3-phase service.

Which would make for a plausible explanation as to why the original motor and switch were changed out.


I've switched around several drill heads and floor model bases over the years, and have found the columns to be easily interchangeable.

I think 2 3/4" was the most common diameter.


And yes, those "Craftsman" quills, had a tendency to wear out the splines in the step pulley.

I've "rescued" 2 of those floor models, that were bound for the dumpster. with worn out quills.

The really old ones had a good, heavy cast iron base.
 
That's a nice drill press, I've got one just like it. Mine didn't have a table when I got it, so I put a Delta DP14 table on it. I think that's what you've got on yours. I've wondered if the bench models even came with a table originally, since the base is made to have a vise or fixture mounted to it, and the head raises and lowers to bring it to the work, instead of the table moving to bring the work to the head.

The ability to tilt the table is nice, and I like your solution to the spindle alignment. Even though I've got the same table, I've always lusted after a machinist table with oil gutter and drain. I just nailed one and am looking forward to mounting it up. I'm entertaining thoughts of keeping both tables mounted and swing one out of the way when the other is being used, but I don't know if the column has enough room for all that stuff on it. Mine also has a 3PH motor on it, and I'm planning to put a VFD on it so it has fine speed adjustment.

By the way, that is one kick ass stand you've fab'd up for the drill press. Mind if I copy it?
 
I've wondered if the bench models even came with a table originally, since the base is made to have a vise or fixture mounted to it, and the head raises and lowers to bring it to the work, instead of the table moving to bring the work to the head.

The proper 'bench' models didn't have that head lift. Nor as 'standard', anyway, even one for their table.

Which they did have.

Mine is original except for a PO having brazed a length of steel angle to one side for easier clamping, and my use of a '68 Chrysler Imperial tilt steering wheel lever for locking handle.

The shop-fabbed table under it is easily half-again as stout at his OLD one, and three times as ugly.

It is about to be re-purposed as counterweighted mount - with outriggers, of course - for a diverted pickup-truck-bed crane.

Bill
 
Excellent Theorizing, Gents!

And thanks. I agree completely. Having been one of a gang of drills running 3P would explain perfectly the raising mech, and the base and motor discrepancies. I can clearly see the two set screw marks in the base of the column - which is a steel tube, and has the W-T type cap on top. Perhaps the gang drills used a similar method of fixing the columns to the table as a single drill did to its base, and I know the single drill bases had two set screws bearing directly on the column. Whatever, it is fun to speculate.

If this thing did live in a production shop at one time, it must have been the head that did the least number or lightest stress of operations. With the exception of the key holes being rounded out a bit in the chuck, suggesting some fair (or sloppy) usage, the spindle is smooth and snug as can be.

One thing I need to do is increase the diameter of the load bearing washers on top of the hockey pucks. Contrary to the attitude of a hockey puck when it contacts ones shin, or a goal post, in this application, the durometer of the rubber seems shockingly pliable. I need to increase the diameter of the hole sawed and threaded load bearing washers to more closely approximate the diameter of the pucks, thereby decreasing the deflection, and increasing the lateral stability of my admittedly narrow table. Copy away if you like what you see. The table will be easier than the decal! :D

You know, I look at the Bok Choy DP sitting over by the overhead door, stationed to leave this place after 20+ years, and I sort of feel sad for it. I suppose I should have tried to true up the spindle a bit, or put a decent chuck on it, and make it a more pleasant tool. (............) Nah.... I'm going to like this little W-T!!
 
Excellent Theorizing, Gents!

And thanks. I agree completely. Having been one of a gang of drills running 3P would explain perfectly the raising mech, and the table and motor discrepancies. I can clearly see the two set screw marks in the base of the column - which is a steel tube, and has the W-T type cap on top. Perhaps the gang drills used a similar method of fixing the columns to the table as a single drill did to its base, and I know the single drill bases had two set screws bearing directly on the column. Whatever, it is fun to speculate.

If this thing did live in a production shop at one time, it must have been the head that did the least number or lightest stress of operations. With the exception of the key holes being rounded out a bit in the chuck, suggesting some fair (or sloppy) usage, the spindle is smooth and snug as can be.

One thing I need to do is increase the diameter of the load bearing washers on top of the hockey pucks. Contrary to the attitude of a hockey puck when it contacts ones shin, or a goal post, in this application, the durometer of the rubber seems shockingly pliable. I need to increase the diameter of the hole sawed and threaded load bearing washers to more closely approximate the diameter of the pucks, thereby decreasing the deflection, and increasing the lateral stability of my admittedly narrow table. Copy away if you like what you see. The table will be easier than the decal! :D

You know, I look at the Bok Choy DP sitting over by the overhead door, stationed to leave this place after 20+ years, and I sort of feel sad for it. I suppose I should have tried to true up the spindle a bit, or put a decent chuck on it, and make it a more pleasant tool. (............) Nah.... I'm going to like this little W-T!!

Your shop, your goals, but I'd seek a standard OEM NON tilting table, and then..

- Take advantage of the neat raising and lowering gear, place a stout third-party ANGLE table on the baseplate.

- Take advantage of the ability to swing 180 degrees and place an X-Y table back of it. Not for 'milling'. Just for accurate positioning.

- Take advantage of the narrow cart you have fabbed, add anchors for straps, a rail to back vee-blocks, vertically, swing 90 degrees to get at the end of looong stock or oversized goods fastened to the side of it.

Beats all Hell out of trying to get a Mag drill to cling to a wooden table base or aluminium awning supports. Most especially if you don't even HAVE a mag-base drill..

:)


Bill
 
W-T_GangDrills.jpg


Well, you can clearly see the base fixture that holds the gang drill columns to the table, but you can't see if they use two radially offset set screws to hold the column to the fixtures or not. You can clearly see that they all employ the head raising mech. I would imagine you could spec them with either 1 or 3P.

Some mysteries will remain so........ :scratchchin:

My DP is likely earlier than these pictured, possibly in the pre Kearney & Trecker days, as it has no facility for affixing the belt guard to the pulley housing. Mine was likely from an earlier time when the belt cover was not offered, or was merely an option.

Wouldn't it be sweet to have one of those little doubles? :cloud9:
 
Nice old drill. I love the table mod. I have an old Delta that I extended the column a few inches to get my Versatapper some clearance. My quill needs a little work for some slop. Overall it works just fine.
 
W-T_GangDrills.jpg


Well, you can clearly see the base fixture that holds the gang drill columns to the table, but you can't see if they use two radially offset set screws to hold the column to the fixtures or not. You can clearly see that they all employ the head raising mech. I would imagine you could spec them with either 1 or 3P.

Some mysteries will remain so........ :scratchchin:

My DP is likely earlier than these pictured, possibly in the pre Kearney & Trecker days, as it has no facility for affixing the belt guard to the pulley housing. Mine was likely from an earlier time when the belt cover was not offered, or was merely an option.

Wouldn't it be sweet to have one of those little doubles? :cloud9:

D'you know what is sweeter yet?

See that collar that affixes the column to the table?

Happen to have a stout I beam running across your shop?

You were aware the W-T dasn't care if the column goes out the top of its head casting instead of the bottom?

Howja like to be able to roll a scissor-lift table under one of those, level it, and drill to the center of a 10 or 20-foot circle? Or hole-saw a porthole into a boat or camper?

Then slide the little W-T along the rail back to three feet offa the wall so it ain't a head-banger?

Poor man's gantry drill. Small balls, but veeeeery long arms. And it wouldn't eat even chicken feed as far as space vs 12-20,000 Avoir of C-B Super Service or ATW Hole-Wizard.

Bill
 
Monarchist:

I believe W-T or Delta did make a radial version of this same style drill. I saw one once about 35 years ago, and it had come out of a sheet metal shop. It had a dovetailed arm, if I remember right, the same sort of elevating screw on a round column, and a large table surface.

For light work or putting in spotter-drills or pilot holes (to be step drilled larger by a regular radial drill), there was another interesting variety of drill. This was sometimes called a "jacknife drill". A light duty drill head was mounted on a set of articulated or hinged arms. This enabled the drill head to be easily swung to any location on a fairly large radius. The idea was to use this type of drill for light work, since the articulated arms (usually trussed iron castings) could not take much drill thrust without some deflection. A jacknife drill could drill to a distance of maybe 48" from the center of the arm's anchorage/hinge pin.
 
Redline:

The radial drill in the photo you posted is the one I saw years ago. I remember being quite impressed with it, and, realizing its design was not the most rigid, I asked the fellow who had it about it. He told me it had come out of a sheet metal shop, where it was used to drill holes in electrical control box panel fronts.

I think the radial version in the photo is probably a rare thing.

In the days before CNC machine tools, particularly during WWII, a lot of quick adaptations of machine tools were made for production setups. Adding drill heads on another machine tool was one such adaptation. By adding drill heads onto some other machine tool, it was often possible to combine operations without having to break a setup and move the work.

The "inverted" drill head in the first photo might well have been something from the aviation industry in WWII.
By mounting a number of drill heads in the inverted position, on some sort of gantry, it would have been possible to drill holes far in from the edges of large sheets of aluminum or other sheet metal.
 
Just one thing... flexible as these critters are, do NOT confuse a W-T with a milling machine.

That said, for just making holes, yah can see they are rather more flexible than a BeePee head.

:)
 
I have those drill presses in my shop (the ones posted by RedlineMan) the gang drill set is still working, unfortunately the radial arm drill has spun the spline bushing inside the step pulley and I have not yet been able to come up with a good repair for it. I will try and post some pictures as soon as I have a chance
 
Hey;

I decided that I wanted to replace the drive belt. It was old and ratty and had a strip ripped off it which caused a bit of a shake, even at low speed. Might as well do a complete clean and service, since the whole spindle had to come out.

W-TSpindle1.jpg


L-to-R; Chuck, threaded chuck press off collar, fixed collar, lower bearing. The pieces in the foreground are the thrust lock collar, bearing, and threaded bearing ring. The bearing presses in, then the threaded lock ring traps it, and the set screw lock collar resists thrust forces on the spindle, and loads the inner bearing race. I particularly like the threaded chuck press off collar idea. Just a coupe of spanners and you can change tooling quite quickly. I'll have to get some spanners!

W-TSpindle2.jpg


For a spindle that ran smooth and quiet, the upper bearing was kind of grubby. The bottom one was a bit dry-ish, but clean. Both got cleaned out and packed with some slickery stringy high temp bearing grease.

W-TSpindle3.jpg


A pair of SKF 70336 1Z bearings did the spinning. Not sure what class these are, but they are probably nothing exotic. Both were a bit rumbly until I cleaned and greased them. Nice and quiet now.

I managed to snap the end off the spindle raising spring trying to put it back in. Guess it had been tweaked once too often at the hook. Simply drilling a new hole will solve that. I did not know how the pin that it hooks on, and also allows the spindle drive pinion to come out of the headstock, was installed, and I broke the head off it before it became clear that it threaded in instead of pressing in. Meh... a simple 10-32 machine screw will suffice in its place. New belt tomorrow. I decided instead of a who knows used Albrecht chuck from ebay, to spring for a new Rohm keyless from Amazon. Also German made, and only $20 more. Then a couple of spanners and this little dude will be ready to work for another 70 years!
 








 
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