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Newbould Indexer

Mud

Diamond
Joined
May 20, 2002
Location
South Central PA
As shown in the photos, includes the case. Appears as new, I can't find any signs of it being used, I haven't used it either so it's going to a new home.
$600 plus shipping, I can ship USPS or UPS, insured, at your expense. I accept Paypal and checks, as long as you can wait for the check to clear. Dibs to the first post on here then send me a PM.
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I've been lying in wait hoping to get one of the 1°1'1" models. I've talked to RJ's nephew a few times on Facebook. Ran across him in one of the machinist groups there.
 
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I've been lying in wait hoping to get one of the 1°1'1" models. I've talked to RJ's nephew a few times on Facebook. Ran across him in one of the machinist groups there.
Is this one not 1 second increment? I didn't realize there was more than one setup.
 
Is the indexer really in an oak box?

If that is natural color, not stained, after the green settles down :) .....
it could be teak. Teak is more stable than oak, and lighter. Not sure about the tanin content.

Below - i had to replicate some parquets for Dumbarton Oaks. The originals had ash cores and teak faces. The ash rotted in places near a door that got wet. So when i replicated them, i used quarter sawn white oak for the cores. The cathedral grain darker wood in lower left corners is teak. Natural color, no finish at this stage. You usually have to let it oxidize for a few days after cutting though - it is often quite green colored when freshly cut.
cores, face, & back, structural parquet, DO.JPG


Another wood that looks like red oak is sassafras, not super common, but not rare, either.

Then again, it could be oak, :)
 
Is the indexer really in an oak box?
That was my first thought when I seen it.

I set my slick on a dried piece of red oak overnight and was terrified when the thing had developed extreme surface rust overnight.
I’m still pissed off that I learned of oak’s qualities the hard way.
 
So is oak wood a good thing or bad thing? Some Gerstners are oak aren't they?
Here's a photo of the outside of the box.
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I have an oak Gerstner. I have a Newbould, but it is the 5C/v-block model and is in a larger, not oak, plywood box. I have a set of adjustable levels, not Newbould, that came in an oak box, interior unfinished, that have unexpected rust stains on Zinc or Nickel plated steel. I have read on this site about tanins in oak causing rust. I'm not sure what to think about the box, I just thought I would point it out and see what better minds than mine had to say. It appears from Mud's pictures the indexer has faired quite well in the box. RIP RJ, to bad you can't add your input.
 
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I think it's possible to have oak cause problems if it's in direct contact. Probably depends on humidity level too. Better to have some felt like the Gerstners do or either varnish or oil the surfaces in contact.
 
It is interesting - oaks get the infamy of the tannins causing rust.
But Mahogany and Walnut are generally considered ok, and they have nearly as much.
Blond woods like maple, or beech and birch like the Euro's use has very little tannin, but can still rust if the humidity is high.

High humidity is probably the bigger factor. Wood insulates and to some extent isolates. However, if humidity is high and the metal contents have been chilled, water will condense and wood can hold it in place. I'd seal the inside of boxes, and as has been said, use pacific silver cloth or felt liners. Old tool makers and some modern woodworkers put blocks of camphor in wooden tool boxes to prevent condensation.

I spray the innards of many boxes & any wooden holders for things like shank tools or collets, with LPS #2

Actually, i don't even really trust felt unless it is oiled - seen to many old high carbon steel drafting tools, inspection tools, and even some cast iron straight edges that had deep rust where they contacted felt, but it got wet or condensed at some point, undiscovered in storage.

PS, weren't Newboulds made of stainless, except the casting itself?
 








 
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