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Newly acquired Monarch 10EE!

tagtx

Plastic
Joined
Jul 13, 2023
I "somewhat" inherited a 10EE from my dad. I never lived with him as he left after I was born; I maybe visited him twice in my early 20s. His garage was his machine shop business making plastic injection molds for manufacturers. I talked to him on the phone once for about an hour about a lathe he was rebuilding. He sounded super excited about it and asked me to come over to look at it, but I never did. After his passing, I asked his wife if I could have the Monarch lathe; he had a
Le Blond, too (severely rusted from being outside), but I wanted the Monarch that he rebuilt and used daily. I didn't care at the time what the lathe was, or the quality of it just wanted it because of how happy he was on the phone talking about it. That's how I'll remember him every time I look/use the lathe in my shop. Out of our entire family, I'm the only one interested in machining, which is kinda weird since I didn't grow up with him. I guess that part was "hereditary," who knows, but cool never the less. So I hired a rigging contractor to move the lathe, and one of the Bridgeports (which I had to buy from her), got them set up in their new home. Now the fun of starting up the lathe began; lots of reading/research first, ordered manual from Monarch second; I was excited to turn the power ON, but nothing, just the transformer humming. The center tube doesn't glow, so I tested all components in the module, diodes, capacitors, connections, etc. I need help finding info on the two bus fuses on the front by the module; one fuse has 0 volts. Anyway, here are some pictures of her at her new home. Thanks
 

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If I can't get this running with the original "electronics" then I may just convert it.
 
I asked his wife if I could have the Monarch lathe; he had a
Le Blond, too (severely rusted from being outside), but I wanted the Monarch that he rebuilt and used daily.

What happened to it ? Since he was using it daily are you missing some parts or? to make it run? RPC? Transformer?

If I can't get this running with the original "electronics" then I may just convert it.
 
From what I heard, he used it daily before he got sick over a year ago. Maybe just sitting and not being used, I don't know, just guessing
 
based on the manual, all parts/tooling are accounted for, and all the wiring looks to be intact, tubes and transformers are all there as well. the only item that's missing is the tapper bracket and rod.
 
Congrats on the 10ee. My son spent his childhood with me but grew up and moved out before I got into machining. I have had him do some small projects on my 10ee that he seemed to enjoy doing. I am hoping he will get the bug and enjoy this lathe when I am gone. Interestingly enough, mine was made in my birth year too.
 
I need to figure out why I have zero volts at one of the bus fuses near the electronic unit module. Yes, I've read about the tube replacements and I will go down that route if one or both are bad.
 
Take note of the schematic in the link below. You can run on 240 single phase on a modular lathe. Lug #2 only powers the coolant pump. You need #1 and #3

Also
If you are using a RPC to supply dont use the manufactured leg for the controll circuit.
Describe your dead circut further, there are some very knowlegable members on the modular 10ee lathe.

 
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Yes, it was wired for 240 when I picked it up I just copied how my dad wired it to his 240 breaker. I did verify that those two legs route into L1 and L3 the other day.
Not using a RPC. I'll dig in when I get time to provide more details about the dead circuit. I did restudy the schematics I got from Monarch for this serial # this morning, looking for those two bus fuses near the module.
 
Did you push the reset on both relays. Maybe someone grounded a hot wire doing the disconnect.
 
I pushed in on the one furthest to the right/top, but it didn't seem tripped to me. Where is the other one located? Maybe I visually missed that one.
 
L1 and L3 are on the same relay so that one reset is all that matters for incoming power. It sounds like it wasnt kicked.
You could check continuity on that coil. Power off!
You say one line is dead.
Start at the breaker box and verify power all the way forward to the buss fuse your talking about.
With the door open you have to manually turn the safety interlock mechanism.

L2 for the coolant pump or hydraulic pump in some cases has no power in your case.
This is about as far as I can suggest.
 








 
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