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od grinding on tilting head cincinnati.

cuttergrinder

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 16, 2007
Location
Salem,Ohio
I have a couple cincinnati #2 cutter grinders with the motor down in the base. I have a power work head on the one and sometimes use it to do small od grinding and it works pretty well. Im working on making a camshaft grinder and I bought this newer cincinnati with the tilting wheel head and the motor on the top. I bought this mainly for the long table. I wanted to use the older grinder for building the camshaft grinder but the wheel head just wont get close enough to the camshaft without using a very large wheel and the grinder runs too fast for that so I thought I could just use the newer grinder with the tilting wheel head but it doesnt seem to grind as nice as the older machines. The motor makes some noise so Im hoping it just needs new motor bearings but not sure this will fix it. I have some on order. Has anyone tried od grinding with a tilting wheel head machine?
 
I have used a #2 with an import tilt head (Morgan-Denver rebuild) as a small cylindrical grinder with modest success. Not nearly as nice as a true OD grinder, but it got the jobs done. Not sure that tells you very much, though, as my non-Cincinnati tilt head almost certainly isn't like yours. My biggest objection to using the #2 T&C grinder as an OD grinder is the lack of anything the fine feed you'd find on a true cylindrical grinder.
 
One good way to get more wheel extended out is to swing the wheel head to perhaps 30* and then dress the wheel OD parallel to the long travel.

We held a tenths grinding Barber Collman and common reamers with cinci #2s but that was a challenge with not having pic-feed like a true OD grinder has. When we got down to a half-thow we had to hand bump the infeed hand wheel and count sparks.

Following a cam lobe form would be a little tricky.
Putting on a rocking table with with the work head and tail stock so the rocking couuld follow a master cam would/might be good.
A plate with a couple pillow block bearings on the under side might do .
 
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Qt: (Has anyone tried od grinding with a tilting wheel head machine?)
Yes I have done OD and cutter work with both machines.
but once one gets used to a non tilt head grinder most often it is quicker to not use the tilt and just rotate the tool to add or reduce angle of clearance..

When you tilt the wheel head from flat to primary, then to secondary you also have to raise or lower the wheel height // then you have to tram the wheel back to true flat..all that takes a lot of time. more time than the actual grinding..
 
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Qt: (Has anyone tried od grinding with a tilting wheel head machine?)
Yes I have done OD and cutter work with both machines.
but once one gets used to a non tilt head grinder most often it is quicker to not use the tilt and just rotate the tool to add or reduce angle of clearance..

When you tilt the wheel head from flat to primary, then to secondary you also have to raise or lower the wheel height // then you have to tram the wheel back to true flat..all that takes a lot of time. more time than the actual grinding..
I can get closer to what will be the camshaft with this grinder than I can with the older grinder with the motor down in the base. I just am not real happy with the finish I'm getting on this nachine.
 

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Wheel looks pretty loaded up, that whatever on the other end of the spindle may not be well balanced.

Do you understand how turning the wheel head to 30* will give more wheel height toward the part?

A 46 to 60 grit wheel, fresh dress with a turned diamond, stick the wheel with a paint stick lightly, bevel the wheel coners with a carbide insert or a norbide stick,
work head turning at 300rpm or less.
(Note the original spec for the workhead was 360RPM, that is OK)
 
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Nothing is on the other end of the spindle. This is a lathe mounted to the table and the rpm is geared for camshaft grinding. . Ill have to check rpm but its real slow. Its a 60 grit wheel which was dressed with a diamond right before removing about .001 stock. I understand about dressing the wheel at an angle but I doubt it would get close enough. I needed about a 12" wheel on the other older grinder.
 
O, I guess that is just the belt.
Wheel loaded that much for .001 seems a lot of loading.

Im not talking about dressing the wheel at an angle, I was talking about turning the wheel head 30*, looks like you would turn it counter clock wise , and then dress the OD flat to the long trave.Yes the wheel sides would be at 30* to the table.
You can even turn the wheel head to 45* and dress it square to the table travel.
I believe the wheel spindle runs at 3850 so too fast for most 8" wheels

* Is it your lathe fixture that gets too close to the wheel head? If so could you make some off-set plates to move the work head and tail center closer to the wheel?
 
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I plan to turn the fixture around that hols the wheel head and then I can get even closer because the wheelhead will be mounted more towards the front. I really need to be able to use a 6" wheel because the cam lobe will have a concave radius on the flanks of the lobe. I need the smaller wheel to get down in that concave radius. The machine table just runs out of travel and won't move in anymore.
 
Cuttergrinder, still you havent said that you understan turning/rotating the wheel head (308 or what) to get the wheel OD closer to the part, to get the spindle body farther away form the part
 
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I understand about turning the wheel head and dressing straight with the table travel but would sure be a waist of wheel. I need to use 6" wheels to grind the concave radius
 








 
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