Oil Leak 13" SB

[Greenlee52]

I have a pretty good oil leak underneath the rear of my Headstock. If I fill the rear reservoir to the top of the Git it will drain overnight. I don't want to remove the Headstock if I don't have to. My question is does the hold down bolt for the Headstock thread into the reservoir? I have put sealant tape on the threads but maybe it wasn't thick enough. I don't know how thick the bottom of the casting is for the Headstock or if it threads into the oil reservoir. NO leaks in the front at all. Thanks for the help

 

[SLK001]

Oil Leak 13" SB​

Be more specific. Does your lathe have segmented bearings, or bronze? What model number?

If I fill the rear reservoir to the top of the Git it will drain overnight.

From where? And is this with use, or just standing?

My question is does the hold down bolt for the Headstock thread into the reservoir?

I don't have a 13", but no, it shouldn't. Most of the reservoir is in the GITS cup.

I don't want to remove the Headstock if I don't have to.

You have a serious issue that needs attention right now. You might have a cracked housing, or worse (if it can get any worse than that). It could also be something as simple as missing the surface tension breaking clips on a segmented bearing. Also, since you probably don't know the maintenance history of your lathe, now would be a good time to change the felts in your headstock.

 

[Greenlee52]

Sorry, I didn't think of all the details I left out. It's a 1960 13" South Bend. Currently everything is new, capillary oilers, bearings, expanders, Allen head screws for the bearing caps. It runs great now considering all I had to fix.

It drains overnight without use down to the middle of the hole leading into the reservoir at the bottom of the Git. Most of the oil is dripping down the Headstock holding studs, oil is always on the floor beneath it.

It took over a year to get it running and now another issue, but this lathe was apparently used hard. Bought by Calumet Castings in Indiana. It's still accurate and has a 3hp 3 phase motor using a 3-step pulley setup.

The Headstock was caulked around the perimeter, I didn't have a clue why but now I understand.

Not complaining, but I have physical issues that have gotten worse since I purchased it and it would be difficult for me to remove the Headstock without finding help.

If I failed to answer all of the above questions just let me know, thanks for the help

 

[SLK001]

Just fill it with oil, then remove the mounting nut and the stud. If you get a deluge of oil from removing the stud, the hole in the casting may have strayed a little too close to the reservoir hole and broken thru. Using a lot more sealing tape may be enough to put a halt to the leak. Use the thicker version of the sealing tape.

 

[Greenlee52]

Just fill it with oil, then remove the mounting nut and the stud. If you get a deluge of oil from removing the stud, the hole in the casting may have strayed a little too close to the reservoir hole and broken thru. Using a lot more sealing tape may be enough to put a halt to the leak. Use the thicker version of the sealing tape.

Good Idea, thank you. It's funny how your mind gets bogged down when to think things through. I can pull the stud, wipe it down and refill to see if that's what happened. I'll try tomorrow afternoon when it's not as hot in my garage and report back in case anyone else has a similar issue.

 

[Greenlee52]

Good Idea, thank you. It's funny how your mind gets bogged down when to think things through. I can pull the stud, wipe it down and refill to see if that's what happened. I'll try tomorrow afternoon when it's not as hot in my garage and report back in case anyone else has a similar issue.

It's been too hot here; my garage is close to 100 degrees, so I haven't been able to work on the lathe. I'll post as soon as the weather gives me a break. I have a feeling it's the stud and it has broken through into the reservoir. When I get it out to the garage, I'm going to take a mirror and flashlight after I wipe it down, I might be able to see if there is something else causing the leak. The oil runs down the stud is the only thing; I believe you have the best advice to remove the stud and fill it will oil and see if it comes out of the threaded hole or not. It's raining today so this might be a good time to do this.

 

[Greenlee52]

It's been too hot here; my garage is close to 100 degrees, so I haven't been able to work on the lathe. I'll post as soon as the weather gives me a break. I have a feeling it's the stud and it has broken through into the reservoir. When I get it out to the garage, I'm going to take a mirror and flashlight after I wipe it down, I might be able to see if there is something else causing the leak. The oil runs down the stud is the only thing; I believe you have the best advice to remove the stud and fill it will oil and see if it comes out of the threaded hole or not. It's raining today so this might be a good time to do this.

The leak is not at the threaded end of the rear Headstock hold down stud. Nothing can be done to correct it, so it is what it is. Appreciate the help.

 

[Greenlee52]

The leak is not at the threaded end of the rear Headstock hold down stud. Nothing can be done to correct it, so it is what it is. Appreciate the help.

I did take 3 pictures of the problem. This continues to be the Lathe From Hell. Had to crop this one to send, too big but it will do.

 

[texasgeartrain]

One fix I might consider. Make an oversized blind bushing to go into that bottom hole.

Measure those 3 holes, and the pin that drops into them. Let's say its 3/8". Drill that bottom hole bigger to 7/16 or 1/2". Now turn a piece of brass to fit the new hole snug, and maybe 5/8" or 3/4" long. Drill the new brass bushing 3/8 or whatever the original hole size was. But watch your depth, maybe 7/16 or a 1/2" deep. Then hammer the new blind bushing in.

 

[SLK001]

I did take 3 pictures of the problem. This continues to be the Lathe From Hell. Had to crop this one to send, too big but it will do.

I'm lost... What is this a picture of? And are those cracks in the casting next to the pins?

 

[texasgeartrain]

I'm lost... What is this a picture of? And are those cracks in the casting next to the pins?

Its the 3 holes for reverse tumbler positon. I was assuming the bottom hole was punched though into the oil res for rear bearing cap.

Looking at mine, a 16", that is lower than the oil res should be though. Not sure about his, a 13".

But maybe that's part of the problem, oil res leaking into a headstock cavity, where it normally wouldn't.

 

[wood2steel]

Interesting;; my 16 started leaking down a year ago. Will check that lower hole location this morning and see if that could be the same scenario. Don't use the kid much as he hides in the corner amongst the hobby L & S's

 

[Greenlee52]

First, I am sorry for taking so long to reply. I started digging more into what was going on. Yes, it is cracked at the stop pins top and bottom for the reverse/forward gears. The cracks are from pounding the pins when switching gears reverse/forward, the operator must have been rough on this lathe.

The bottom pin has a pretty defined flat across the area that the gear assembly holding the reverse/forward gears. I don't think the lower crack is deep but I'm guessing. The top crack does leak oil but there's more to it.

I removed the top pin, it's not a replacement like I thought. The hole is a larger than 5/16", I don't have any way to measure it. The pin looks like a drill rod, real shinny. The oil started coming out more with the pin out.

I cleaned the oil out of the way and using a flashlight I could see what looked a crack at the end of the drilled hole. I have a picture of it. It also looks like a repair maybe from South Bend since the hole was drilled through into the reservoir.

At the bottom of the hole it looks like a small amount of a 2-part epoxy, it's a different color than the metal. The hole is 13/32" (.406") deep. You can see the break from the picture.

Just my thoughts on it, the epoxy or whatever was used broke apart from the metal letting the oil leak out. It also followed the crack line. Leaking inside the middle neutral hole which also has a hole in it.

This ran down to the larger bored hole pivot point for the gear assembly and a hold directly above the hold down stud which is several inches below the reservoir and could never have been drilled into it.

I hope you can see what I am talking about with the pictures. I might have to crop them before they will fit. Anyway, it just goes to show that life is full of mysteries.

I'll have to figure out how to send these pictures, it's telling me they are too big.

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

I'd think you'd have to be hitting that lever with a sledge hammer to cause those cracks, dropping the machine could explain one, but not both? Maybe the casting is thinner than it should be? As for sealing them, this might be a good application of Lock-Stitch pins.

 

[Greenlee52]

Its the 3 holes for reverse tumbler positon. I was assuming the bottom hole was punched though into the oil res for rear bearing cap.

Looking at mine, a 16", that is lower than the oil res should be though. Not sure about his, a 13".

But maybe that's part of the problem, oil res leaking into a headstock cavity, where it normally wouldn't.

The bottom hole is way below the reservoir, the top hole is right across from the drain plug. My stop pins got pretty beat up is why I think the cracks occurred but there is no doubt the top stop pin was drilled too deep, and this had to be at South Bend.

 

[Greenlee52]

I'd think you'd have to be hitting that lever with a sledge hammer to cause those cracks, dropping the machine could explain one, but not both? Maybe the casting is thinner than it should be? As for sealing them, this might be a good application of Lock-Stitch pins.

I would agree but the pins have flat spots across them but not knowing the history I don't know. I had considered maybe it was hit or dropped or something. If I can figure out how to reduce the picture size it would explain more

 

[Greenlee52]

Let me see if I reduced these 2 pictures enough.
Got one picture and it shows a little of what I am talking about. It looks like a mountain with 2 slopes, that is the crack and on the right side you can see a rectangular sq. that I can put my scriber point through,

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

I can see the pins have flat spots from the lever, not sure if that is excessive wear or normal wear, but I'm thinking force to crack the housing would have broken the lever? Maybe someone drove in slightly over-sized pins?

 

[Greenlee52]

Let me see if I reduced these 2 pictures enough.View attachment 368786
Got one picture and it shows a little of what I am talking about. It looks like a mountain with 2 slopes, that is the crack and on the right side you can see a rectangular sq. that I can put my scriber point through,View attachment 368787

It looks like the top stop pin hole is drilled too deep compared to the bottom stop pin. I am going to take a small drill bit and see what kind of compound is at the bottom of the hole. To fix it I will do the same and pack it with some type of epoxy.

 

[Greenlee52]

I can see the pins have flat spots from the lever, not sure if that is excessive wear or normal wear, but I'm thinking force to crack the housing would have broken the lever? Maybe someone drove in slightly over-sized pins?

My first thoughts since this was an abused lathe to begin with. I might be wrong about it now. It is a 1960 SB 13" that was first bought by a casting company in Indiana.