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OT-butt join 1/2" fiberglass solid rod


Mar 6, 2003
Hampstead, NC-S.E. Coast
I need to make a stake pole for kayak fishing. Someone stole mine. I have 2 40" pieces of 1/2 solid round fiberglass rod that I'd like to butt join together. I'd prefer to not use any type of coupling and join the 2 rods with a reliable pin/dowel. How should I make the distance I drill into the ends of each rod? What diameter pin? What is the recommended glue/epoxy the mated parts and what should be the clearance, if any, between the holes and the pin?
Turn down one end of one, bore a hole in the end of the other. Make the cross section areas the same. Radius where the reduced diameter meets the full diameter on the one. Epoxy together. Leave a thou on the diameter for the epoxy to fill. NOT a press fit.
Agree. Thin wall metallic sleeve and epoxy.

If you really have to do a pin, make it double tapered in tapered holes with epoxy. Overall pin length 10x rod diameter. 1/2 rod diameter at pin midpoint, tapered down almost to a point each end. This is probably your best bet but no way will be as strong as a sleeve.
Ditto on the thin wall metallic sleeve and epoxy.
+ another for a metal sleeve or ferrule
From my days of solid glass fibre fishing rods (yes I am that old!!) and the quest to do away with metal ferrules (better action and all that jazz) I know that solid glass bored and spigoted for a joint is not good as the female of the joint tends to burst open, ........ make the wall thicker and the peg part breaks.
An alternative to a metal sleeve would be some fiberglass sleeve and epoxy. But if a new one is $50, it might be easier and better to go buy one.
I think you could use a dowel of solid military grade steel. If the fiberglass rod is 1/2", ream a hole to .484" and use a steel dowel - military grade - that's about 3" long and insert half of it into each end of the fiberglass rod. The steel dowel will never, ever snap in half.

Alternately, you could use a single drop of Gorilla glue and simply press the two ends of fiberglass rod together for 1/2 second for a permanent fix. If it will hold a grown man suspended from a hard hat, it will hold a fish.
This pole will be for a secondary stake pole for positioning my kayak. It will be plunged into thick mud and have a fair amount of bending stress so it got to behave like a single piece.
A sleeve seems like the #1 option.
To join the ends as you inquired in the original post, I would taper down the ends to near points at a shallow angle over 5" distance on each pole. Fixture them so they are in line with access to the length of the joint, Then use very light weight fiberglass cloth (some is nearly filmy) and wrap sufficient epoxy-soaked cloth to build up the joined area to more than 1/2" Then turn down the joined area to 1/2". The result will be a good strong joint. But the process is way to much trouble (in my opinion) for what you are making.

If just acting as a temporary anchor point is all the pole is actually doing and it will be carried in a kayak, I would be finding a close-grained piece of doug fir or white pine and cutting a 1x1" piece of sufficient length to do the job. A 3/16 hole in one end to hold a length of parachute cord and a rough point on the other and done. No paint or varnish. But that is just me.

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I bought the cheap Horrible Fright fiberglass electric fish sticks. Used for fishing wires inside walls. The rods are 1/2 the diameter of the good brands. The screw connectors are brass not iron. Went to use them in the attic above the porch. I was surprised they broke the brass connectors, not the glass when bent too far.
I knew they would be poorly made but I could not get my good ones in there. After they broke I ended up drilling a hole in the outside wall to get a straight run for my good fish sticks. Only I can see the patch in the stucco now.
Bill D
Are these always solid glass rod?
I’d think that would be sort of clunky to have in the boats kit.
Want to drop by my shop?
I have a 20’ stick of heavy wall 5/8 or 3/4 6061 which would be decent for this - just plug and point a section.
Are these always solid glass rod?
I’d think that would be sort of clunky to have in the boats kit.
Want to drop by my shop?
I have a 20’ stick of heavy wall 5/8 or 3/4 6061 which would be decent for this - just plug and point a section.
That's exactly how the one that was stolen was built. I didn't have any more.
I would drill and tap a 12-24 hole 1" deep in each pole end.
Then turn a thin cylinder of SS 304 about 2" long and slip over one pole end.
Then screw a 2" long 12-24 threaded rod into each pole end with epoxy (1" in each pole end).
Center the cylinder on the center of the joint with epoxy.
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