OT - Genie S60 Boomlift Electrical Issues

[dalmatiangirl61]

Posted this in Material Handling and Rigging yesterday, but that forum is not working, and I need to fix this thing,

Replaced electric gasoline pump 5 months ago, bench test on old one said it was dead, ran machine for 3 days without issue, parked for winter, battery removed. Tried to start it a couple weeks ago, would not start, no fuel pressure, checked pump and it was not getting voltage. Machine has the propane fuel option, regulator was bad, but if I cracked valve on tank then closed it the machine would start and run for a few seconds. Replaced propane regulator this week, went to start it yesterday and it would not crank.

Followed troubleshooting chart in manual, on terminal #6 I got .56v with start switch not engaged, and 0v with start switch engaged. Wiring is in good condition, don't think there are any breaks, no rodent damage, maybe just a bad connection, IDK. In attempt to diagnose fuel issue I did move Control Relays 1 thru 4 around a few weeks ago, it made no differences, but still cranked.

After posting in MH&R yesterday I went out and moved Control Relays 1-4 around again, tried every possible combo, still no crank when start switch engaged, only 1 light on Ignition/Start Module was illuminated, #7 iirc. Came back inside and tried to find more info in Ignition/Start Module, not much out there, did find this https://www.genielift.com/docs/default-source/tech-tips/telescopic-and-articulated-booms/no-start-ism-models.pdf?sfvrsn=a40a768a_9

Went back out to check voltage at terminal #1 on Ignition/Start Module, and the damn thing cranked and all the lights came on on the module. At this point I'm thinking its either a bad connection, or the module has an intermittent problem. Its always nice when a machine fixes itself, but then you have to worry about when its going to die again. Any insight would be helpful.

Machine starts and runs on propane now, still dies when switched over to gasoline. Manual shows Control Relays 5-7 underneath 1-4, with #6 & #7 being Fuel Cutout Relays, but they are not in my control box. I did find 3 relays in engine compartment, different P#'s than those in control box, I'm assuming these are them, pulled one today to get part# and try to locate replacements.

 

[kb0thn]

I have a 1998 vintage S-40 gas/propane and a 2007(?) vintage S-65 diesel. Both of which I have done pretty extensive electrical work on. Unfortunately I am not in a position right now to look at the docs on your machine. And it would be helpful to know the serial number of the machine to be able to get your schematic up.

If your machine is a dumb gas engine machine like my S-40, then the propane switchover is pretty simple. It disables the fuel pump and it puts power to the propane solenoid. I may disable the automatic choke on propane as well. So you can literally just disconnect the propane valve and connect power to the fuel pump and you'll be running on gas regardless of what position the switch is in.

The all LEDs on on the controller module is just something it does. I see that on my machines as well. Don't be concerned about that.

The Genie controller module does watch engine RPM and probably temperature and/or oil pressure. You get some brief period of time after you quit cranking before it needs to see RPM and/or pressure. If the carb on my gas S-40 isn't adjusted right it won't get up to RPM or oil pressure or something quickly enough and then the damn module will shut of the ignition before the engine has a chance to get fully running.

Good luck.

 

[dalmatiangirl61]

2WD, 1999 model, S#3796, Electrical S#ES65F, Ford 4 cyl gas/propane.

Ideally I'd like to start running this thing on propane more, it does not get used daily, propane system is now working fine. As long as I'm working on it might as well get the gasoline side going again, if the relays on firewall are it they are accessible now with the engine swung out.

When I was trying to start and getting a no crank situation, only light that lit on the controller was #7, after it fixed itself they all lit again as normal. This was not a long crank then no crank situation, it was turn key on, hit start as usual, and nothing happened. Switch on/off multiple times, tried toggle both directions, no go. Followed troubleshoot chart, NO voltage on terminal #6 of controller with start switch engaged, and .56v with start switch NOT engaged. I'm thinking maybe controller is going bad, sucks cause its not cheap, have not found any info on diagnose or testing it.

Thanks!