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OT Maybe, Metal Halide Light problem.

I think the 1000 watts is just a bs marketing label
The most charitable explanation is that this LED produces the same amount of light (in lumens) as a 1000 watt quartz halogen incandescent lamp. As LEDs have gotten better, the number of electrical watts needed to make a given amount of light has dropped.

The other dimension to consider is the color temperature, expressed in degrees Kelvin. The incandescent will be around 3000K, but lots of shops are at 4000K, which is more like sunlight.
 
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I made an LED light at my old job, with 250 watts of radiated power. We were going to make a quad size 1000 watt unit. It was absolutely insane and would burn your hand if the light shined on it, even if the entire light was still cold.
 
Led’s less trouble!? Funny! I still have a few old incandescent bulbs that are more reliable. Less juice yes. Reliable no. Very frustrating!

Maybe led replacement is better but there are two main parts in a metal halide lamp. The bulb and the ballast. Maybe replace the ballast. Sometimes an igniter is there too but i don’t think that would buzz.
 
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I made an LED light at my old job, with 250 watts of radiated power. We were going to make a quad size 1000 watt unit. It was absolutely insane and would burn your hand if the light shined on it, even if the entire light was still cold.
I would assume that the danger is if one were too close to the light.

For comparison, noon sunlight near the equator is about 1000 watts radiation (mostly infrared) per square meter.
 
I would assume that the danger is if one were too close to the light.

For comparison, noon sunlight near the equator is about 1000 watts radiation (mostly infrared) per square meter.
The emitter area was pretty small, so it was easy to burn things with it by being too close. It also had a fairly tight 60 degree output.

It was intended as a grow light that would shine more light on the plants than the sun could.
 
Led’s less trouble!? Funny! I still have a few old incandescent bulbs that are more reliable. Less juice yes. Reliable no. Very frustrating!
I replaced all the incandescent and cfl bulbs in my living space with LED's about 10 years ago, they are on about 12 hours per day, and so far none have failed. There is one hallway with 2 that stay on 24/7, they have not failed either. The 1000 watt corncob bulb in the shop pulls 100 watts, a 100 watt incandescent bulb in that room would qualify as a piss poor nitelight. I'm a happy LED user, your mileage may vary.
 
Sirs,
My shop is lighted by three metal halide high bay lights. About a year ago the center lamp burned out and was replaced. Afterward it started to buzz in a most unpleasant manner. Thinking it was the brand of bulb I recently changed it again. Still no relief. I have tried to find the cause or cure in many searches to no avail. Someone please help me as I am about to losing my mind!!!! The other two lights emit a not unpleasant hum that I don't hear at all when a machine is running or the stereo is on. What is it? What must I do. Wife says turn it off. What say yinz?

Rattled,
Bob....not the cat.
Bob, I have low-bay 400W Metal Halide light fixtures in my woodshop.

When the bulbs / ballasts go bad, I convert them over to LED. The cost is minimal and the light output is similar. I can buy mogul base LED "corn bulbs" from a variety of suppliers and they will screw right into my existing fixtures. All I have to do is bypass the ballasts with the wiring.

In my instance, the original fixtures were wired as 240 single phase, but at the time that I installed them I also ran a neutral wire in the same conduit. So swapping them over was a pretty simple process.

Here are some bulbs on Amazon that may work for you if you choose to convert your fixtures. Out of pocket costs around $35 for each bulb plus your time doing the rewiring to bypass the ballast.

 
They make conversion screw in sockets to make a mogul socket into a standard size bulb socket to open it up to more choices of led bulbs that screw in.
Bill D
 
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