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OT: Motorcycle engine lubrication

There is a big theft problem on high end motorcycles like Harley, Honda and the other big companies. I could imagine that the authorities would frown on changed engines or modified motor numbers any more.
Anymore ? If you rode in the seventies you have cop stories about checking numbers. The sharp ones even knew which style stamps for which years. It was common to impound bikes for suspicious engine numbers and suspicious was in the eye of the beholder.
 
Be sure to add some liqui-moly mos2 to the oil and run it. Keep adding mos2 at every oil change and just run it.
Better yet use the liqui-moly oil that has the mos2 in it already.

Link to mos2:
MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment
They even have it is small tubes for bikes:
Motorbike MoS2 Shooter - 2-wheel/Quad/Kart/Bike

It should be available locally, our Napa store used to stock it, they got bought by carquest so not sure if they still do, I order it online now.
Liqui-moly also has some ceramic friction reducers that might be worth looking at:
Cera Tec

I might even add the ceratec first to let it stick, before adding the mos2 at oil changes.

edit: Dont use mos2 with a wet clutch.
 
That's a wet clutch, you don't want to use oil additives.

Water cooled engine- it was only low on oil, wasn't run dry. Those things are pretty tough, I'd just run it. It'll probably go for another 50K.
 
I had same model & year bike for a while- put a bunch of miles on it. An easy-running and quiet low stress engine.

Putting a cavalcade or other rear unit on it really helps the bike at highway speed.. a good mod.
 
Was this a case of "NO" oil? or a case where the mechanic didn't put in all three?

Sounds more like "no" oil, which makes it a little surprising to me that it ran 30 miles, but it's possible, I guess.

I have an engine that actually seized, which I disassembled and cleaned off the transferred material, then put back together. The issue was the con rod big end, the cylinder did not look scored, etc. There was a fair bit of transfer from the rod to the crankshaft, but it came off OK.

It runs, and does not make much extra noise, but I have never regarded it as "reliable". It probably only needs a con rod replacement, but that has not been done.

The motor the OP describes sounds similar.... maybe just a new rod or rod bearing if it is separate, and it would be fine. Depends what the crankshaft looks like.
 
I bought this cherry 73 Ranchero (it really was a nice looking car lol!) with a 460 for $250. I fixed the C6, put exhaust on it, welded up the 9 inch and had a blast baking tires off it on weekend drives. On one such drive the oil PSI sending unit just fell out during a 5000 RPM drive burnout. I didn't notice, nor did I really care, that the oil was no longer in the pan. Traveling over a concrete bridge 10 miles down the road with windows down I heard the quick tapping of some rods and began to notice a power loss. A few miles later the front two rods exited the pan. I've been in this situation before, so knew exactly what to do. Simultaneous full throttle and downshift to first. Made it a solid 3/4 mile further before lockup.

The oil was gone in about 200 feet. That was 13+ miles of abusive driving with no oil in the pan before lockup.

I had a 410 Merc motor in my old Highboy when I was in the military. It was an original 1966 engine with a couple hundred thousand miles on it. Burned oil like crazy, 3 PSI hot oil pressure, but I held that thing at valve float stuck in snow for what seemed like hours and it didn't care. One time I got carried away on a Sunday night and lost track of time. I was a few hundred miles away from base at 1AM and had to be there by 6am. In the rush I forgot I was out of oil and of coarse, nobody was open. I finally found a gas station that had some, but I dropped the fill cap and couldn't find it on the road. I duct taped over the breather hole and hit the highway. The blowby blew the cork pan gasket out the side. Kept stopping to dump oil in, but it was pointless. Came to the conclusion if I was going to be late I'd better be screwed so I just hit the road and was running real late so went about 80+. I rmeember having to keep it running pulling onto base holding it 1500+ to get it to idle. I parked it, got onto the ship on time and went out to sea for 2 months. When I cam back I poured 5.5 qts in a 6qt pan and it started right up and ran like it always did. A year or so later I swapped in a nice 390 and pulled that 410 down. It was beautiful inside. All original down to the fiber timing gear. Bearings were all copper, but smooth as silk.

I know a 60 series Detroit can go at least 300 miles loaded with 80K pounds on level highway with the oil completely drained and the pan filled with coolant. Freightliner gave up on the test and drove the truck back to the shop.
 
................
It runs, and does not make much extra noise, but I have never regarded it as "reliable". It probably only needs a con rod replacement, but that has not been done.

......

That's pretty much the concern. We could pull it apart replace the rod bearings, and hope the damage to every other rotating or rubbing part is minimal. She decided she would rather not go that route and for $670 we found her a replacement engine with 12K miles from a bike being parted out but was not wrecked. So we will check it out, check and adjust the valves and timing chain (a problem with these engines) and she should be good to go.

We will pull the damaged engine down and maybe fix or just sell as is to someone who went for a slide and wants some nice undamaged side covers.

Steve
 
No, because then she might wind up like me with a couple of semi-trailers worth of things that I can't even remember why in the hell I didn't throw it away years ago.

Steve
 
I repoed a Terex 82/30 dozer where the motor had ran out of oil,and the owner dropped the sump every week and replaced rod bearings.....didnt help ,tho and the repo men got it.....Even so ,it drove onto the float ,with a bit of clatter.
 
That's pretty much the concern. We could pull it apart replace the rod bearings, and hope the damage to every other rotating or rubbing part is minimal. She decided she would rather not go that route and for $670 we found her a replacement engine with 12K miles from a bike being parted out but was not wrecked. So we will check it out, check and adjust the valves and timing chain (a problem with these engines) and she should be good to go.

We will pull the damaged engine down and maybe fix or just sell as is to someone who went for a slide and wants some nice undamaged side covers.

Steve

Thank You ! We all know it probably would have been OK, but with a novice on 2 wheels this was the safest decision.
 
Are you sure the oil light isnt a temp light not a pressure light ?
My Honda quad has an oil light but its for temp only and wont let you know when it low on oil.
Personally I would drive it.
 
Bottom line - This is an inexperienced, un-mechanical female rider; what we grizzled vets might be willing to risk ourselves would traumatize her to always be in anxiety mode the beast might any minute bite her. Replacing the engine was the right thing to do.

jack vines
 
Friend went crazy buying seized and jammed Japanese bikes about 20 years ago.......Id say he now has over 1,000 seized bikes stored in layers ...whats that ,you say ......well ,get a bunch of bikes about 100ft x 10ft ,put sheets of roofing iron across the top ,and you have a platform for more bikes ,fill this ,and add a third layer on top..........he hasnt got to a fourth layer ...yet..........I asked if he planned to restore them ......Well maybe not all of them he says.
 
To finish the story - over THREE YEARS AGO my motorcycle buddies and I got together in my shop, swapped the engine, she rode it happily for about two years, sold it now has a Sportster and knows to check the oil regularly.
 








 
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