Power Hack saw identification

[dberryco]

I picked up this old power hacksaw and can't find any information on the web about it. It has been converted from an old-time leather belt drive to an AC motor and to my surprise actually works. It's my new project and any information I can find would be helpful in restoring it.

 

[L Vanice]

It is a Royal No. 2, which tells me nothing about the maker, but may ring a bell with someone here.

Little old machines like that are popular with antique gas engine collectors. They take them to engine and tractor shows and belt them to an engine to show people what sort of things the engines were used for when there was no electric power on farms.

Larry

 

[Bill D]

I like the way the entire vise pivots. I just bought a Marvel #1. very hard to search keep getting comic books! There is a hacksaw wrestler charecter.
Marvel called it a draw saw.
Bill D

 

[Bill D]

Good luck finding good blades at a good price. Some use bandsaw blade sections.
BilLD

 

[crrmeyer]

Good luck finding good blades at a good price. Some use bandsaw blade sections.
BilLD

eBay or a wanted ad here on PM are surprisingly good sources for power hacksaw blades.

 

[DDoug]

I picked up this old power hacksaw and can't find any information on the web about it. It has been converted from an old-time leather belt drive to an AC motor and to my surprise actually works. It's my new project and any information I can find would be helpful in restoring it.

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[dberryco]

eBay or a wanted ad here on PM are surprisingly good sources for power hacksaw blades.

It hadn't occurred to me that blades would be a problem at all. It appears that there is about an inch of travel to fit any that are sort of close in size.
Unless my planned use for this thing changes dramatically, a dozen blades will last the rest of my life.

 

[Peter S]

dberryco,

Nice little saw - what does the brass plate say?

I did a quick search and found the Royal saws were made by the Frontier Iron Works, Buffalo, NY. It seems the saws were designed by William Robertson (The Robertson Drill & Tool Co.) who left Frontier and founded W. Robertson Machine & Foundry Co. I have seen one of these latter machines posted on the forum.

I got this info from http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=3236&tab=0 There are several pages to look at including those for the two Robertson company's

ps. it's a shame that power saws are not welcome on PM, there are many interesting examples worth discussing IMO.

 

[dberryco]

dberryco,

Nice little saw - what does the brass plate say?

I did a quick search and found the Royal saws were made by the Frontier Iron Works, Buffalo, NY. It seems that the saws were designed by William Robertson (The Robertson Drill & Tool Co.) who left Frontier and founded W. Robertson Machine & Foundry Co. I have seen one of these latter machines posted on the forum.

I got this info from http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=3236&tab=0 There are several pages to look at including those for the two Robertson company's

That is great information, thanks! I'll check it out next. I didn't notice the brass plate until I got home today. It's still strapped in the back of my truck. Tomorrow, I plan on removing the motor and rolling base to make it easy to take back home with me. I'll have a look and post a picture when I do.

 

[Bill D]

MY experience dating old motors is if the endbells are aluminum, not cast iron, it is post WW2. If the data plate is brass, not aluminum, it is pre war.
Bill D

 

[dberryco]

That is great information, thanks! I'll check it out next. I didn't notice the brass plate until I got home today. It's still strapped in the back of my truck. Tomorrow, I plan on removing the motor and rolling base to make it easy to take back home with me. I'll have a look and post a picture when I do.

This is the plate, made of brass.

 

[M.B. Naegle]

Brass tag looks like a dealer. I find it odd that they rivetted it on upside-down compared to the manufacturers script beside it. I've seen worse though. I don't now what it is but better than half the time the machine dealers rivet those tags on crooked and with miss-matched rivets. Must be one of those jobs delegated to the new guy in the shop.

Might ask a mod to move this to the antique machines sub-forum. I think you'll get better reception and input over there. (I think that's what DDoug was eluding to).

 

[dberryco]

Brass tag looks like a dealer. I find it odd that they rivetted it on upside-down compared to the manufacturers script beside it. I've seen worse though. I don't now what it is but better than half the time the machine dealers rivet those tags on crooked and with miss-matched rivets. Must be one of those jobs delegated to the new guy in the shop.

Might ask a mod to move this to the antique machines sub-forum. I think you'll get better reception and input over there. (I think that's what DDoug was eluding to).

That would be great. I think this is going to be a fun project and I have a lot of questions.

 

[dberryco]

MY experience dating old motors is if the endbells are aluminum, not cast iron, it is post WW2. If the data plate is brass, not aluminum, it is pre war.
Bill D

I'm unsure if it was wired for 110 or 220. It rotates very smoothly with no discernable slop in the shaft. Another thing to look up. I will certainly power the saw, but had planned on a modern motor with a VFD since I have no idea how fast it is supposed to run. 1/3 HP seems kind of weak for any machine tool but obviously it worked and did so for many years.

 

[john.k]

Yes .1/2 and 1/3 hp motors on drills and saws are very satisfactory .............however ,that motor seems to need some maintenance work at least to avoid being an electrical risk

 

[dberryco]

Yes .1/2 and 1/3 hp motors on drills and saws are very satisfactory .............however ,that motor seems to need some maintenance work at least to avoid being an electrical risk

Repairing it is within my skillset, I'm just not sure if it's worth the effort. I have no idea about the value of old motors beyond scrap. I remember tearing quite a few of them apart back in the 70's for copper.

 

[mjr6550]

Yes .1/2 and 1/3 hp motors on drills and saws are very satisfactory .............however ,that motor seems to need some maintenance work at least to avoid being an electrical risk

I restored a Racine. It had no drive system. I put a 1/2 hp motor on it. I have not used it much but the motor seems fine. From what I read about 90 to 100 rpm was typical.