Pratt & Whitney 12 x 30 Model C - Removing apron front

[thermite]

The trick/method is to pre-assemble the interlock into the cover before hand. Then, slide the saddle off to one side so you have access to the top of the apron. It's only 8 screws and since you're lifting one side of the saddle it's not too bad to pick up and slide it over. Then using some all thread to act as guides, you can slide the assembly on and reach down thru the top with a long slender screwdriver and push the interlock over to slide over the longitudinal feed collar ramp. This was so easy I was sure it is the PW method.



I hope this helps anyone working on these old machines.

Thank you for that.

You are probably correct, too.

"For future reference.." the modified "snare". Because it is a very "general" technique useful in MANY situations:

- stainless wire off a spool. The sort sold for wiring Aircraft fasteners. Or as the Army Dental surgeons use to wire the bits and pieces of a human JAW back together.

- make a long LOOP.

- such that both, repeat BOTH, ends are pulled up through a fastener hole, the space adjacent a shaft or gear .."wherever" they can be. Need NOT be the "same" hole, either. Quite often it will NOT be.

- use the loop, routed as need be, to hold the "whichever" where you need it to be held.

- Clamping is at the external ends. ONLY!!! NO kinks or such INSIDE the space as might catch or grab.

- proceed with assembly.

- release one, repeat ONE end of the snare. Not both.

- use the end you still have the Kelly forceps or clamp attached to .. to draw the entire length of the wire OUT.

- hurts like a you-don-wanna-KNOW if the wire was wrapped around the ROOTS of ALL yer TEETH.. and there are no anesthetics for yah..



..but it was a useful trick at least ONE Old Fart will never forget!!

"DAMHIKT"

"light work" even monofilament fishing line ... or industrial repair thread or string-trimmer weed-wacker cord can also work. Aramids, I mean.

 

[Uglydog]

I understand that this is an old thread. But, thought I'd add a simpler alternative.
The left lever traverses the table.
Unscrew the nut which retains the machine screw holding the lever.
The screw is on an eccentric. It may be helpful to turn the turn the screw for least resistance.
Remove the machine screw, you may need to carefully use a punch. Do not bung the threads.
The lever rotates and pushes on a square block. This block floats. However, it is a friction fit.
The block does not need to be removed. Merely nudged back, away from the apron.
Now the offending notched plate can be rotated counterclockwise, out of the way. You will not need much for adequate clearance.
Reverse the process once the pin is clear.
The eccentric machine screw will need to be adjusted to engage the pressure plates.
This entire process takes just a few minutes.

Daryl
MN