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Question About Norton Brake Controlled Truing Device

jbacc

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 5, 2009
Location
New Jersey
Good Morning,

I'm back once again seeking to tap into the wealth of knowledge of the members of this site and I am most appreciative. Along with my recent acquisition of a KO Lee T&C Grinder was a Norton Brake Controlled Truing Device. Along with trying to figure out how to use it I am wondering if this unit is working properly. There is no resistance whatsoever when spinning the attach grinding wheel by hand, it freely spins... Is this normal? How does the brake part function and when would it kick in?

Thanks in advance for any and all comments, guidance and assistance, I appreciate it.

Joe
 

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It's got a centrifugal clutch, in which springs hold some (brass?) shoes in until the speed rises sufficiently, at which point the shoes spread out into the ID of a drum, slowing the wheel. So it will spin up to an appropriate speed but no more. I believe you run it with a slight amount of angle to the grinding wheel of interest, but have not used one (edit: it appears they should be run straight, as I was corrected below). They are commonly used to dress a resin-bonded diamond wheel.
 
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I place it straight to the wheel, always indicating a new diamond wheel OD to run.001 if there is any play at the wheel mount, Make the diamond wheel tight and leave it on its own mount, Give the dresser wheel a spin with a pencil to not a dead start. travel to where the sound lowers and then back the other way to keep the dresser rolling, Try to "use" dress the wheel so grinding helps keep the wheel flat. One can often brake dress a little if needing a better surface finish,, a broken green whee piece makes a good hand dresser to get the wheel diamonds to be higher than the bond so males a wheel gind cooler.
 
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I place it straight to the wheel, always indicating a new diamond wheel OD to run.001 if there is any play at the wheel mount, Give the dresser wheel a spin with a pencil to not a dead start. travel to where the sound lowers and then back the other way to keep the dresser rolling, Try to "use" dress the wheel so grinding helps keep the wheel flat.

Cup wheels are pretty much self-dressing so usually not dressed with a break dressed.
Thank you very much for your help.

Joe
 
It's got a centrifugal clutch, in which springs hold some (brass?) shoes in until the speed rises sufficiently, at which point the shoes spread out into the ID of a drum, slowing the wheel. So it will spin up to an appropriate speed but no more. I believe you run it with a slight amount of angle to the grinding wheel of interest, but have not used one. They are commonly used to dress a resin-bonded diamond wheel.
Thank you so very much.

Joe
 
Here find the Norton Viedo:
( I believe nothing was said about a slight amount of angle to the grinding wheel of interest,)
Good to be dead center or slightly to the safe side of the center (Left of center on most grinders)
(X) never on the climb-side of the wheel, so to be caught to crack the wheel and the dresser goes flying out the window.
 
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Yes it should spin free by hand.
Three screws on the back remove the cup. This is the "brake drum"
Inside are three brass brake pads, springs and screws. Remove these and clean if not used for a while as they get stuck sometimes.
Brake speed is adjustable. Normal new setting is the screws fully seated.
You back the screws out slightly (one turn or so) to reduce the speed.

The only other thing that goes bad is the bearings but under very, very heavy use in a 365/24/7 shop they go 20 years plus.
I often "kick" the dresser so that I am using a corner of the dressing wheel.

Now the bad news. Unlike motorized these care a lot about the grade and grit of the dressing stone and the wheel they are truing.
I keep 8 different ones in stock for various combinations.
Pick the wrong one and you will be dressing for an hour. Pick the right one and a few minutes or less.

One can buy shoe kits. Checked E-yuk and see a set for $70. That is crazy and did not come with springs and screws.
Once the drum has worn a good size lip inside it will not work anymore. The shoes come out too far and turn sideways.:eek:

Diamond and CBN resin or vit wheels only.
DO NOT USE on white/pink wheels or any plated wheels.
 

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Yes it should spin free by hand.
Three screws on the back remove the cup. This is the "brake drum"
Inside are three brass brake pads, springs and screws. Remove these and clean if not used for a while as they get stuck sometimes.
Brake speed is adjustable. Normal new setting is the screws fully seated.
You back the screws out slightly (one turn or so) to reduce the speed.

The only other thing that goes bad is the bearings but under very, very heavy use in a 365/24/7 shop they go 20 years plus.
I often "kick" the dresser so that I am using a corner of the dressing wheel.

Now the bad news. Unlike motorized these care a lot about the grade and grit of the dressing stone and the wheel they are truing.
I keep 8 different ones in stock for various combinations.
Pick the wrong one and you will be dressing for an hour. Pick the right one and a few minutes or less.

One can buy shoe kits. Checked E-yuk and see a set for $70. That is crazy and did not come with springs and screws.
Once the drum has worn a good size lip inside it will not work anymore. The shoes come out too far and turn sideways.:eek:

Diamond and CBN resin or vit wheels only.
DO NOT USE on white/pink wheels or any plated wheels.
Bob,

Thanks so much, this is so very helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to guide me, truly.

Joe
 
Now the bad news. Unlike motorized these care a lot about the grade and grit of the dressing stone and the wheel they are truing.
Bob, thanks for the info on the brake-type. I did pick up a couple of motorized dressers (one larger, intended for crushing a master plated wheel into a stone wheels), any "general" tips you've got on using them correctly would be welcome.
 








 
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