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Rockford MV100 Mill

No on finding parts. Going to make them Y axis is just a rectangle and X looks to be round. I'll get some bronze and start whittling away what doesn't belong. I'm hoping to find drawings so I don't have to reassemble and assemble multiple times.
 
I've owned a 9 x 36 Rockford mill for about 15 years, and have worked on most parts of it, mostly during the initial clean up and refurbishment after I bought it. I had the benefit then of being guided by a master machinist who owned 3 of them since they were new, but he's since passed on. Have you made sure there is minimal axial free play in the bearing on the Y-axis screw? indicate the end of the screw as you turn the handle back and forth through the free play and see how much it moves in and out. The bearing is a standard size mounted in the piece held by the 4 Allen screws behind the dial. Also check the observed free play at different places on the travel to try and separate screw wear from nut wear. I haven't worried too much about the nut free play since I installed a 3 axis DRO from DRO-Pros. Worth every penny. I recently added an iGaging 5" travel readout to the spindle, also. They sell it for drill presses, but it is more compact and easier to mount on this machine than the ones sold for Bridgports and seems to work just fine.
One thing to note, is there are 2 gear boxes in the head with separate oil reservoirs. One is for the 90 degree bevel gears that bring the power from the Reeves drive into the head, and the other is for the high-low range gear box that then turns the spindle through the toothed belt on top. Make sure both are kept at the correct level. Mine leaks a little oil from the upper box (high-low) into the lower bevel gear over time, so I occasionally have to drain it out of the lower and put it back in the top. I use Mobil SHC Extra Heavy for both.
Occasionally you should make sure you run the Reeves drive from one end to the other to keep it free. There is also an oil cup on one of the shafts inside the base that needs occasional attention.
I'm very happy with mine, and appreciate its low headroom requirements and relative stiffness, although sometimes I miss being able to swivel the head to one side like a Bridgeport to work on long parts hanging off the table. I haven't found that I miss a "nodding" head feature much. The self ejecting drawbar is a nice feature, but it uses a non-standard 3/8" square wrench. No spindle brake, but putting it in low gear is always good enough for loosening or tightening a collet. The direct reading Tachometer is kind of cool looking and you can use an O-ring to replace the rubber tire on the drive wheel.

Davis
 
The table is fairly easy to remove. There is a single bronze casting that has X and Y nuts machined into it, so it is probably not a simple replacement.

On my machine I found most of the play was in the bearings behind the hand wheels. You can replace the standard 6202 ball bearings with 5202 double row angular contact bearings to remove most play here. Some minor machining is required on the leadscrews due to the slightly wider bearing width. For X axis you can just use the duplex bearing at one end.
 
Very little play 0n y axis shaft. Seems to be between nut and shaft. I've already sealed high low gear box, it leaked into input gear box and leaked out the top. High low gear box has a groove machined in outside to not allow oil and or pressure to not build in input gear box and not cause that seal to leak. Now power down feed is starting to drip.

Peter
 








 
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