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Saved a Hendey from the scrappers yesterday

I'm getting a QC tool post lined up for it. We have a grab bag of Lantern-type tool posts and holders that would work well on here if I can get enough matching pieces. The QC post will get used more though.

Got some more questions for you guys:

What oils would you recommend on this lathe? Right now, I'm washing it out with a 50/50 mix of kerosene and HD32 fluid (We keep bottles of it all over the shop). Our other lathes run enclosed and pressurized lub systems, so is there anything special to use for an "open" gear box like this one.

What is the spindle thread system on these lathes? I'm going to be on the lookout for some other chuck options (back plate, 3 jaw, collet, etc.) Does the chuck spin on/off or is there a nut that I'm not seeing?

Also, how was the coolant/oil pumped originally? Was it run off of the spindle, if so, where did the pump mount?I've got the tank and I'm going to make a new screen for the chip pan. I can put a little sump pump in it for now, but I'm curious as to what is "correct".
 
You can read about oiling here

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/hendey-gear-head-lubrication-recommendations-316348/

Chuck screws on on custom Hendey thread. Scan in Post #11 has thread size for later 18 and 20". Again, this is in no way some standard thread

Pump was driven off head stock end by flat belt. Kit came with sump you added to pan. I'll scan that page by and by. ANY submersible pump you can sit in the sump or bucket and plug in will do you

ON EDIT

Add scans
 

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Since it sounds like you are expecting to use it, I'd suggest seeing if it had "Hendeyitus" before putting it in service

They (with tapered plain bearings) all either have this problem, or will get it, or used to have it but have been fixed

Put it in neutral, load up the spindle axially a little (such as putting the live center against a piece in the chuck)

See if you can turn the chuck by hand

Draggy? Your machine is advancing toward the problem

Can't turn it at all? Your machine has full blown HENDEYITUS

IT ISN'T an adjustment, its a take apart and fix

Let us know



Other things that likely will need attention are the apron. Your 10XXX serial will have this old single wall apron - might be handy to know how to work on it

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/hendey-apron-help-needed-316358/
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to check it.

The most obvious issues I've seen in the apron so far is that the clutch seems to engage poorly. The Feed directional lever is also spotty. The shaft for it which runs along the bed could be truer and the bracket which holds it near the QC gear box is broken (need to check that the oxy-cetalin tanks are full;)).

I think pulling the whole front of this lathe apart will be my first task in order to clean it out and check everything. While I'm at it I want to start getting some decent paint on the lathe (That John Deere Green on it right now just doesn't fly with me, lol). Although the original was black, I'm thinking a Bridgeport-ish dark grey would mingle it in with the rest of our shop nicely. There's been talk of getting into some epoxy enamel. At any rate, I hate machines that are painted in one piece. Pulling it apart and getting into all the corners and cavity's has such an awesome effect on the end result.
 
Here is a magnificent brush job on this 14" cone head

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ey-14-6-tie-bar-rehab-172446/?highlight=rehab

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to check it.

The most obvious issues I've seen in the apron so far is that the clutch seems to engage poorly. The Feed directional lever is also spotty. The shaft for it which runs along the bed could be truer and the bracket which holds it near the QC gear box is broken (need to check that the oxy-cetalin tanks are full;)).

I think pulling the whole front of this lathe apart will be my first task in order to clean it out and check everything. While I'm at it I want to start getting some decent paint on the lathe (That John Deere Green on it right now just doesn't fly with me, lol). Although the original was black, I'm thinking a Bridgeport-ish dark grey would mingle it in with the rest of our shop nicely. There's been talk of getting into some epoxy enamel. At any rate, I hate machines that are painted in one piece. Pulling it apart and getting into all the corners and cavity's has such an awesome effect on the end result.
 
I got in touch with Hendyman who checked the serial number (10366) for me. Built 3rd week of January 1909. Shipped with the taper attachment, coolant system, and a set of #2 collets.
 
Ok, so pictures will help the most, they are coming. But my plan to recreate the spindle clutch may be changing.

I started pulling the pulleys and motor mount apart last night. I want to re-position the motor so that I can eliminate the sub plate that was added to it. I'll need to add holes to the original plate but it makes a lot cleaner set-up and exposes more of the headstock without that over-sized plate in there. Once the motor is in place, I want to replace the pulleys with something closer to what it had originally. The two shafts aren't perfectly lined up now that the motor is in the "right" place, but they're close enough that I can make the pulleys with a slight offset in opposite directions so that they do line up.

Pulling it apart, I wanted to also get an idea of what evidence remained of the original set-up. I'm not seeing any mounting holes for the clutch lever or anything that I've seen in the old catalog pages. The motor mount is for sure original (not an add on to an old line drive machine),
BUT
Biggest find is that the input shaft on the headstock is way to short and simple to have had a clutch on it. According to the pictures and videos stevewatr has posted of his machine, the headstock should have a shaft with a couple shoulders on it and length to accommodate a pulley and the several pieces that make up the clutch. Mine has a single 4" wide step with a threaded nipple on the end. It doesn't show signs of being modified or anything, so I'm thinking this lathe never had a clutch and the motor ran directly to the headstock.
Now, my lathe is equipped with the apron spindle control. SO I'm starting to think that this probably was one of those fancy "experimental" lathes with a DC motor. I don't think it was the armature shifting type though as there's no evidence of the control making any mechanical connection to the top side of the machine. The dial on the control appears to be original but only reads "Forward, Stop, Reverse", so I do't think it was variable speed.
So, my current synopsis of this lathe is that it originaly had a single speed motor controlled via drum switch beneath the chip pan. And as far as the clutch goes. I don't see why someone would have ordered a machine without a clutch if there wasn't some kind of control provision. So perhaps this one had an "electric clutch" by way of dynamic braking.
From my understanding, this was not possible on AC motors back then, but could be done on DC motors. I think the chances of replacing the DC system will be possible when the Titanic floats to the surface and makes it into harbor, but nowadays, I could probably do it with the AC motor I have.
At the very least, I can set it up with a 5HP 3 phase VFD which would give me the needed motor control (I can even make an enclosure to make it look appropriate). The added speed control could be handy but does seem redundant to me. I'm wondering if I can just set it up with a dynamic braking module alone? I've never worked with or seen one outside of a CNC control though. Does anyone know what I would be looking for?
 
As a side note too: I'm aware that I "can do whatever I want to do" with this machine. I COULD add a clutch. I COULD put a VFD on it.

But for 1, a majority of the time when I get into these projects, If I change things from what they were, they usually end up going back eventually for one reason or another. I've learned to trust that the room full of engineers who conspired these machines really did know what they were doing.
And for 2, I want to USE these machines which means they need to keep up with the shop as far as they were designed too. If I eliminate features and capacity from a machine, it's probably going to become less useful. OTOH if I overthink it, I may end up wreaking something.

So my mode of operation is to determine how things once were, put them back as best I can, and fill the holes best I can via modern technology or cleverness.;)
 
I'll scan the DC drives as applied to eight speed gear head and edit them in here. One has controller on pan and one has it on motor.

Neither APPEARS to have a clutch. I added the scan SHOWING clutch levers.
 

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Here's a shot of the motor siting snugly on its plate.
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The headstock input shaft.
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Back view of headstock. The only stray holes in castings were added for a generic drum switch.
 

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The back plate is incredibly stuck too. I've already bent a 5 ft. Crowbar trying to free it. Next I plan to heat it and hope it expands off the spindle nose.
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Another couple shots of the motor mount.
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Major scoring under the cross lie. It looks too deep to cut or grind past so it'll probably need to be filled somehow or have inserts machined in.
 
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Couple shots of the apron control. Looking at it, it has a step of sorts cut back on the face almost like someone cut past original stampings to make space for the ac motor directions. So who knows, mabey it was variable speed. And the more I think about it, it's not that redundant in that you would use the geared headstock to set your actual speed, and use the electric control as a percentage of that speed. You could conveniently ramp up the spindle speed the closer you got to center when taking a face cut.:scratchchin:
 
As a side note too, the guy I bought this lathe from also threw in a little 9" southbend. It was the change gear style and missing the jackshaft/motor asm., but I cleaned it up a little and flipped it for $200. So technically, the hendey only cost a hundred bucks now.
 
Have made some progress here and there. I've been doing lots of wire-wheeling getting the paint/rust/grime off (amazing how much more "precise" it looks). The bolts that hold the apron to the saddle are locked in fairly solid so I haven't done a lot with that end of the machine. I did pull the feed direction lever assembly apart. It looks like it had a steel bushing welded in the lever awhile back but it's still a little sloppy. I'm afraid if I try to repair it again, there won't be enough meat to sleeve and re-broach. I think the most slack is in the shaft itself. It's a 15/16" keyed shaft that's a little over 7' long. The shaft for the spindle control looks to be that same specs. and twice as wore so I'll replace them both and that should eliminate a lot of slop.

I'm also working on finding or making a set of flat belt pulleys for the headstock and motor. I've got a copy of Audel's Millwrights Handbook that has proven to be a big help in figuring the necessary width and thickness of the belt (so much information in that book that seems to have been forgotten by time), but the diameters of the pulleys have me a little stumped as I don't have any data on what the 8 speeds actually are.
The motor is 1140 rpm. I can figure the headstock gearing ratio and one of the gears is pretty much a 1:1 so I'll use that as my base and let the others turn as they may.
So does anyone know what the 8 speeds "should" be? Or did it vary depending on customer, and in that case, what would be a good 1:1 speed?
 
By the way, the 1:1 is 1 shaft rotation to 1 spindle rotation and is the fastest speed. These are rough approximations I figured by counting shaft rotations:

The direct speeds:
1:1 - lever to far left
1.75:1 - lever to mid left
3.75:1 - lever to mid right
4.3:1 - lever to far right

and with back gear:
7.5:1 - lever to far left
12.25:1 - lever to mid left
20:1 - lever to mid right
32:1 - lever to far right
 
Had a lucky break. There was a seller on ebay selling a single wall Hendey apron. I contacted him and found out he had parted out a 16" cone head that was also built in 1909. We exchanged some information and I ended up with:
A better cross feed ball crank (my old one had been heavily ground on)
The handles for the tailstock quill lock and the taper attachment lock (both missing)
An extra back plate for a smaller chuck
A couple of the oil hole toppers
And the best score, the upper guard for the feed gear train. I installed it tonight and it took a little "grind-to-fit" but it's on and looks so much better than my plan for a sheetmetal replacement. Still need to find the lower guard, but I'm halfway there.
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With the ongoing paint removal and cleaning, I'm going through the feed gear train. The gears have some wear and a few bushings are wobbled out, but for the time being, it looks like cleaning and adjusting the gear mesh will be enough to keep it running. I adjusted the spindle take up nuts to take out some lateral play. Still need to check on the "hendeyituss" but I need to reassembly the tailstock first.

The stuck backplate really has me stumped right now. Heat, brake fluid, and lots of muscle have had no effect. For the time being I'm thinking on rebuilding the 4 jaw and remounting it to the plate to get it running and I'll revisit it later when I have time and material to make a new back plate in the event that this one has to be cut off.
 
Other progress is I'm getting the pieces together to replicate the old "DC control" under the chip pan. I plan to rig up a 1000 ohm potentiometer inside the cylinder that will connect to a sprocket linking up with the existing apron control. I have a couple domed pipe caps that will weld onto the ends and I'll probably have the spindle direction switch, coolant pump switch, and some indicator lamps mounted on a side access cover. I'm trying to find a low profile VFD that could fit inside the cylinder (with proper ventilation), but if not, I'll add a cabinet inside the left leg to house it.
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I finished cleaning and assembling the tailstock tonight. Other than cleaning and oiling it, I sanded and polished the handwheel and replaced the locking bolt underneath. The quill has a lot of scoring around the OD but it isn't too shaky.

I tried the Hendeyitus test but it's still inconclusive. It began to get dragy under load but I think I need to flush out the bearings. I adjusted the lateral play to feel but I don't know how long it's run/sat with the play and heating the back plate probably baked some oil into the bearings too. Once it's clean I'll recheck the play and try the hendeyitus test again. At any rate, I think it's a safe bet that I will need to do some work on the spindle. Perhaps having it out of the headstock will make it easier to remove the stuck back plate.
 








 
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