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Schaublin 135 rebuilding project- ongoing thread

Ulrich: I have a good collection of manuals for the Schaublin 135, 150, 13 and 213, but not so much for the smaller stuff. Let me know if you're interested.
Ole
 
In the meanwhile, I continue to take apart the lathe, everything is dirty and full of gunk. Took out the small feed gearbox, then the feed spline shaft and the control slotted rod. These can be taken out only from the right side of the machine, as their slots do not go all the way to their right end.
Next I started to take apart the carriage, while setting up support to the apron, which is still attached to the ball screw. The plan is to take them out together. I did not take too many pictures lately, but more to come.
In addition, the counter gear bearings in the headstock were replaced, all gears assembled back and the headstock is ready to accept the spindle once it’s ready.

Aviv.
 

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It's going to clean up really nice, the best part seeing the grime dissolve off and bringing the original finished back to life - any ideas on colour for the main machine at this stage? Should have the RAL or equivalent code for the grey/blue of my machine at some stage if you require to match paint.

Lots of WD40, scotchbrite pads, petrol, jizer needed soon :)
 
Since I’m color blind color selection is always a challenge for me. I guess one could go wrong with one of the battleship gray shades. If you have any RAL recommendation I might follow it. Is there original color or it was always custom a color?

Regarding cleaning, I consider using degreaser and a pressure cleaner to clean the cabinet with the bed, then drying immediately before it has the chance to rust and oiling the ways. Do you think it’s reasonable or I should use more conservative method?
 
If you can strip the machine to empty cabinets and just the bed then for sure jet wash and remove 95% of the crud, if its a good washer then maybe some of that handpainted white may also come off - dry well and mist oil on asap, found small leaf blowers are great for removing lots of water fast from machinery - if you have access to one (y)

Think they had a range of 'standard' colours, seen white, grey and green mainly in pictures and forums.
 
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Today I continued to strip down the lathe. Took out the lubrication tank with the pump, took out the motor bracket, the carriage, the variator handle assembly and the apron together with the ball screw. I also took out the main electrical board and all the wiring harnesses.
To remove the carriage, I supported the apron from below, then once the four screws which connect the carriage to the apron were removed and the carriage was hoisted up, I used M10 eye bolts to sling the apron. It has to be tilted in order to be removed from the bed. Both ends of the bolt screw were protected to avoid any damage during the removal.
 

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Next week I will probably remove the bed from the cabinet and wash both of them with degreaser and pressurised water. I consider painting the lathe in light grey RAL 7035. Any better ideas?
I also like the blue grey RAL 7031, but I prefer light color.
 
Wash wash and wash…
Complete cleaning of the inner cavities of the cabinet is virtually impossible. The only way is submerging in a hot degreasing bath in industrial process. Unfortunately I don’t have easy access to such. I did my best though. After drying, exposed sensitive surfaces were covered with LPS3
 

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Now a lot of the hard work is done, must be nice to have a clean cabinet and bed to work with and prep for paint, will make a superb job once done as its been stripped right back which is the best way :)
 
Hi Guys,

Can someone provide quick guidance how to separate the leadscrew together with its nut from the rest of the apron?

I can start full disassembly of the apron, but currently it’s not in my agenda. I gust want to separate them for easier storage.
 

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Looking at the drawings and not having done this job I can only guess but it looks like there is a removable captive ring or plate on the right hand end in your picture which holds the lead screw cartridge in the casing, you also have to undo the small round bolt you can see on the top of the casting about an inch from the left hand end. The drawing suggests once the cap on the right is removed and the bolt on the top is undone the cartridge should slide out to the right.

There may be a pin or securing bolt holding the plate on the right on so check please as a pin and bolt appear to be shown in a diagram albeit a bit out of focus in the drawings I have.

Good luck and post the outcome please.
 
Looking at the manual again it looks like 5 x cap head bolts in the LHS end plate, these should allow the end cover to be removed, remove the top small bolt and the cartridge should slide out to the right...
 
Today I took out the ball bearing assembly. Basically as suggested, the flange on the RHS of the apron has to be taken out. Then the leadscrew together with its nut and other parts goes from the right. It is imperative not to release the set screw on top (circled) Unfortunately in one of the attempts to slide out the entire assembly it is possible that I tapped (very lightly) the bushing which extends outside of the apron (marked with yellow circle). Inside, this bushing includes two needle bearings. The thrust needle bearing will collide with one of the gears protruding from the lower half of apron. In my case, this ended by damaging gentle sheet metal case, the ring which support it and one lost needle. Here are some pictures. As another “surprise”, when I drained the oil I found a broken ring, which I have no idea where it came from. If anyone needs, I have some more pictures, PM me.
 

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The entire damn apron is full of needle bearings and oil retainers, thus must be handled carefully. Regarding the damaged thrust bearing, it would be great if someone could help me to identify it. It seems to be a special combo of needle roller bearing and a thrust needle bearing which are connected together with a grooved inner snap ring. Both races have grooves which attached to the grooved snap ring.
 

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The thrust bearing race has thickness of 4mm, outside diameter of 64.32mm and inner diameter of 45.52mm.
The rollers are of 2mm diameter and 5.7mm long.
 
Doing some search and looking at the service manual, it seems that the bearing might be Nedalla RAX445. In the diagram it seems that the bering I'm looking for (on the left side) is not marked, but the bearing on the opposite side (right) is marked in the diagram. It has "2" before its name. Does the 2 designate identical bearing on the left side? sorry if this is basic, but I don't have much experience in reading mechanical digrams (EE :) ).
 

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Seems about right looking at the diagram and they seem in pictures to be the right format of bearing.
 








 
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