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Schaublin 135 rebuilding project- ongoing thread

Good job on the paint, a million times better than then before, what is the paint you used?
 
Impresionante trabajo, la máquina lo merece, la cantidad de piezas que tiene, el desmontaje es fácil, la fiesta empezará con el montaje, la sigo con mucho interés, también el trabajo realizado por marcsO excelente, el apoyo de ole.steen es impagable, tengo otro 135 del 1974 y lo estoy limpiando, estoy aprendiendo mucho con avivz, saludos
 
En las partes desnudas de metal sin pintar, una vez bien limpia se le puede dar laca Zapon, protegida del óxido, es transparente e incoloro, lo usé en algunas máquinas, y después de varios años el metal está nuevo, no sé su durabilidad si en contacto con fluidos de corte, saludos.
 

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Well, how old are you? Myself, I am 72 and retired. The ways: I have used brown Scotchbrite, but I have the feeling that many here would be afraid to cause damage. I myself think that you should work for hours to even remove a micron of metal. Go at it!
 
Well, how old are you? Myself, I am 72 and retired. The ways: I have used brown Scotchbrite, but I have the feeling that many here would be afraid to cause damage. I myself think that you should work for hours to even remove a micron of metal. Go at it!
Well, not that old 😁. Soon I will turn 40…
There are discussions about scraping hardened ways with carbide blade which is impossible, so I doubt Scotchbrite could do any harm. I prefer working with an electric tool to spare my energy. I purchased Scotchbrite-like disk to be used on 4.5’’ angle grinder, as well as some felt flap disks which can be used with a polishing compound. I doubt that a fine polishing compound will do anything which can really change the geometry/surface from a functional point of view, but always better to ask for advice before making your own mistakes.
 
One piece of advice is to use 3M products, they cost more but the materials they use are far better in both quality and consistency, imports from a country beginning with C will be far from ideal and may contain all sorts of poor grade grit and abrasives which might cause more damage......
 
Whenever you get stuck in a job, if you have the luxury, put the job aside and come back after a while to try again. New ideas, new approach, different view, etc., might come useful. As I did not order more paint yet, I had some time to work on the gearbox disassembly. Reminder- I could not get out the last two shafts due to the KM6 nut in the middle of the shaft. Last time, I tried to open the nut with a custom tool that was made for this purpose by a friend, per my design. It didn’t work as the nut is two tighten and the access could not allow proper leverage. After a month or so, I approached the gearbox again. This time, I could not remember why I had the impression that the lower shaft could not be taken out before the upper shaft (with the nut). I looked at it again and could not figure out why I had this idea in mind, so I decided to give it a try. After pushing out the bearing on both ends, the lower shaft could be tilted and then pulled into the gearbox, then rotated and taken out. After it worked, I thought to myself, well let’s try it for the upper shaft as well. The issue is that the upper shaft has a much longer end on the left side, this is the end which continues to the change gears. On it’s left hand side, a standard bearing opening. On the RH end, there’s a bearing and a plug in the casting. Both can be pushed out in order to reveal a relatively big opening. Once I pushed out both of them (required some improvisations), the entire shat with the gears could be tilted and taken out of the housing.

In retrospective, I wonder if all the shafts could be taken out with this method (after taking out the shifting forks). However, I can’t remember enough to simulate it in my head. I guess I will try it during the assembly process. Here are some photos.
 

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It turns out that unless one is very lucky to like common machine colors like glue grey, European green or battleship grey choosing a color is one of the most difficult things in the rebuilding process. After many thoughts, I decided to go for two colors- dark blue cabinet and white bed (has nothing to do with Israel’s flag 😁). However, the blue turned to be a disaster. It was glossy, purplish and with poor coverage. Then I decided to go back to all light grey, as I liked the color of the base coating. Before going back to the base coating grey, I decided to experiment a bit with the blue and white I had, hoping to achieve light blue that would be reasonable with a white bed (i.e. two colors machine). It’s not perfect, but I was limited to what I have. These colors are already quite expansive. It’s a matter of taste, but I think I like it. At least I can continue with the project…
As hobbyists, we can play around with the things. Be nice even if you don’t like the results 😁
 

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I have posted this before, but here is a myth whether true or not, that this color "baby blue" was Howard Hughes favorite color and that the machine tools in his factories when repainted were this color. I also have been told it is a sorta common machine color here in the US.
 








 
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